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My Multi CPSII is possessed!

bdlou

bdlou

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Just hooked up my Multi CPSII for the first time. Used a suicide XMen vs SF board, rev 7, and dropped in a G PAL. Loaded up SSFIIX and...this happened:

https://youtu.be/o4C6LQfrYMI

Imagine this happening when your board is turned up FULL BLAST! After I got some clean drawers, I turned down the volume and tried reseating things, but it's still doing this. I've only tried loading SSFIIX and MvC. Both are doing this. Any thoughts on what to troubleshoot first? This is in a Capcom Impress with a Q-Sound AMP set to Stereo.

Thanks!
Louis
 
Just re-read the tips page. I did solder closed the one jumper that was open and didn't match the video. I'll keep trying to seat it more better. ;)
 
Edit Reason: Removed first part of solution - was incorrect...


Also, regarding the jumpers (although I dont believe this is causing your problem in this case), I don't remember what was said in the video, but this is the exact template I followed - which is the pic MItsurugi provided. Just double check yours to be safe:

15hbup0.jpg


Make sure you test with a multi meter set to continuity. Some jumpers such as JP10 and JP12, they look like they are open, but have a small trace closing the circuit. I had to use a sharp cutting utility knife to break the trace on those 2 jumpers.

Also, I noticed that my multi meter would only show the connection on JP10 was broken (i.e. provide no beep), only after I also cut the trace on JP12.
 
Last edited:
If you are having that problem with a rev 7 then you definitely have a jumper soldered wrong. Double check the two jumper banks on the left of that picture and use a multimeter to verify their status as open or shorted.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I've got a 7 week old baby and 4 hours of sleep. There's a pretty solid chance I mixed up something. I'll follow up tomorrow when I can take a look again. I'm sure it's operator error. :)
 
bdlou said:
Just hooked up my Multi CPSII for the first time. Used a suicide XMen vs SF board, rev 7, and dropped in a G PAL. Loaded up SSFIIX and...this happened:

https://youtu.be/o4C6LQfrYMI

Imagine this happening when your board is turned up FULL BLAST! After I got some clean drawers, I turned down the volume and tried reseating things, but it's still doing this. I've only tried loading SSFIIX and MvC. Both are doing this. Any thoughts on what to troubleshoot first? This is in a Capcom Impress with a Q-Sound AMP set to Stereo.

Thanks!
Louis
Click to expand...
LOL! I thought you were playing Lemmings!

Definitely looks to me like a PAL / Jumper problem. Please double check.
 
AJXJbtp.jpg


The plot thickens. Like they say in the instructions, check continuity. Here's my jumpers 8 - 13. See 10 and 12? They show continuity. See the line in the middle of 12? That's what 10 looked like before I tested solder remover on it. Those look to be jumped from the factory that way?! Should I razor blade through them? Don't want to do anything permanent until instructed here.

Thanks,
Louis
 
bdlou said:
See 10 and 12? They show continuity. See the line in the middle of 12? That's what 10 looked like before I tested solder remover on it. Those look to be jumped from the factory that way?! Should I razor blade through them? Don't want to do anything permanent until instructed here.Thanks,Louis
Click to expand...
Yep, that's how the jumpers come closed at time of manufacture. Capcom actually used to cut them themselves in-house when required, so you wouldn't be doing anything Capcom wouldn't have done themselves. If you do need to re-use the board later and change the jumper settings again, it's just a case of using an iron and solder, and a solder sucker, to close and open the jumpers. Nothing to worry about at all. :)
 
bdlou said:
AJXJbtp.jpg


The plot thickens. Like they say in the instructions, check continuity. Here's my jumpers 8 - 13. See 10 and 12? They show continuity. See the line in the middle of 12? That's what 10 looked like before I tested solder remover on it. Those look to be jumped from the factory that way?! Should I razor blade through them? Don't want to do anything permanent until instructed here.

Thanks,
Louis
Click to expand...


as per my above post

"Some jumpers such as JP10 and JP12, they look like they are open, but have a small trace closing the circuit. I had to use a sharp cutting utility knife to break the trace on those 2 jumpers."

and

"Also, I noticed that my multi meter would only show the connection on JP10 was broken (i.e. provide no beep), only after I also cut the trace on JP12."
 
mrJAMMA said:
as per my above post

"Some jumpers such as JP10 and JP12, they look like they are open, but have a small trace closing the circuit. I had to use a sharp cutting utility knife to break the trace on those 2 jumpers."

and

"Also, I noticed that my multi meter would only show the connection on JP10 was broken (i.e. provide no beep), only after I also cut the trace on JP12."
Click to expand...
Oh, damnit. You sure did. Again, 7 week old baby in the house. I'm surprised I even got as far as I did. ;) I'll do a little surgery and try again. Thanks all!
 
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Cool. Looks like we found the issue, eh?

A little trick for everyone on these forums: Instead of hitting the quote button and quoting the entire post, highlight just the relevant part of the post you are referring to. Then a pop up will show. Click "insert quote" and it will automatically quote JUST the highlighted portion.

This will make the posts much easier to read!
 
well its good news -at least you found your problem. Post up the results after you get a chance to sort it :)
 
mrJAMMA said:
well its good news -at least you found your problem. Post up the results after you get a chance to sort it :)
Click to expand...
Well, good news bad news. After cutting the two traces, the sound is MUCH more recognizable, but still some scrambling. I also snapped two pins reconnecting the unit. UGH! They still seem to be making contact though.

So next step, even though I've got a rev 7 board (confirmed for realsies) and swapped in a G PAL, I still need to do the J17 then? I just don't want to bend that pin if I don't have to.

Thanks all for the awesome support you've given so far. Thanks for the tip on quoting too. I should have figured as much. PS, there's no way to do quoting with touch. Mouse is mandatory. At least on a PC.

Thanks!
Louis
 
Ah crap - snapped pins, sorry to hear. how bad are they :( Post up a pic

Also, the audio is still scrambled? I hope its not the pins causing it. You might need replacement pins to solder in - best contact @Darksoft to see if you can buy some, or an online link etc.

Regarding your audio being scrambled still. Did you honestly test with a multimeter set to continuity i.e. beeping when circuit is closed?

If all your jumpers are definitely correct with a multimeter/continuity, try the J17 bridge cable. In fact, if you dont want to stuff up your G PAL with bending of legs, I believe your original Xmen vs SF PAL you removed is F PAL correct? Best to confirm.

If so, bend up pin 7 on that chip (rather than pin 9 on your G PAL which you bought in your kit), and install that F PAL with all the other legs inserted into the socket, except the bent out pin 7. Then solder a wire to pin 7, and connect that to J17, and see the result. Worst case scenario, your G PAL remains untouched...
 
If you are using a Rev 7 and a G pal then you WILL NOT need to use J17 if the jumpers are correct.

Did you double check the jumpers in the upper left hand corner there?

Where are you located again?
 
Have we been able to solve the rest of your issues with this one yet?
 
bdlou, aAs Mitsurugi-w says, were you able to resolve your garbled and possessed audio?

I had the same issue, interestingly, after weeks of it working fine. For me it was almost certainly an 'open' jumper that had somehow re-bridged itself.

FYI, what I just posted on AO:


Finally got my board operational again
icon_pubjoe_awe.gif


Quick recap on timeline, issue, and resolution FYI:


Rev 6 board, G Pal
Received CPS2 Multi, removed roms, plugged CPS2 Multi - all worked fine
Re-seated multi several times due to the crackling audio. Didn't resolve the crackling, but all still working fine.
Got the reinforcement boards - removed CPS2 Multi, applied, re-seated, all still working fine.
FrancoB kindly lent me his kit to upgrade the firmware for auto reset.
Removed CPS2 multi, upgraded firmware successfully, re-seated - sound suddenly garbled.
Re-seated
and played about with seating at least 20 times, did the leg lifting,
wire connection for the G Pal, even though it shouldn't need it - no
change. Still garbled sound.
Visually inspected all jumpers (don't have a multi-meter to properly check) all looked good.
Decided to cut all open jumpers, just in case they had somehow re-bridged
Re-seated CPS2 Multi - all working good again.


So, the garbled sound issue was definitely an open jumper that had
worked fine for weeks, but then decided to somehow re-bridge. Shame I
didn't have any testing kit to pinpoint which jumper(s) were the cause.
 
wigsplitta said:
bdlou, aAs Mitsurugi-w says, were you able to resolve your garbled and possessed audio?

I had the same issue, interestingly, after weeks of it working fine. For me it was almost certainly an 'open' jumper that had somehow re-bridged itself.

FYI, what I just posted on AO:


Finally got my board operational again
icon_pubjoe_awe.gif


Quick recap on timeline, issue, and resolution FYI:


Rev 6 board, G Pal
Received CPS2 Multi, removed roms, plugged CPS2 Multi - all worked fine
Re-seated multi several times due to the crackling audio. Didn't resolve the crackling, but all still working fine.
Got the reinforcement boards - removed CPS2 Multi, applied, re-seated, all still working fine.
FrancoB kindly lent me his kit to upgrade the firmware for auto reset.
Removed CPS2 multi, upgraded firmware successfully, re-seated - sound suddenly garbled.
Re-seated
and played about with seating at least 20 times, did the leg lifting,
wire connection for the G Pal, even though it shouldn't need it - no
change. Still garbled sound.
Visually inspected all jumpers (don't have a multi-meter to properly check) all looked good.
Decided to cut all open jumpers, just in case they had somehow re-bridged
Re-seated CPS2 Multi - all working good again.


So, the garbled sound issue was definitely an open jumper that had
worked fine for weeks, but then decided to somehow re-bridge. Shame I
didn't have any testing kit to pinpoint which jumper(s) were the cause.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing. IT was probably an open track maybe hanging after cutting that went down again. That's why they say....."Don't trust your eye! Trust your meter!"
 
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