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Hedonism Bot 2.0

Hedonism Bot 2.0

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So I picked up a USA Blast, aka the Bass Fishing Conversion for cheap.

J9eIrAbl.jpg


Overall its not in terrible cosmetic condition. The panel and inside of the cp need a really deep cleaning, as soda was spilled all inside. The seller advised it was working but then the chassis went into HV shutdown. He cleaned up the goop and the flyback tested good. The game does come on but its playing blind. Sound is very low. I have a parts 2931 so I'll try to combine them into one working chassis, if that doesn't work, I have a fully recapped, bulletproofed 2931 I can use.

81X5cv1l.jpg



Heres a list of what I need so far:

5575 keys/locks- secured

new coin door- secured

001 loom- secured

OG panel and looms- secured

Original marquee- not found

Original move strip- not found

Originally I was going to keep this as a bass fishing but I'm more leaning to use it is a general purpose model cabinet. Depending on how I like bass fishing, I may either keep it as that or see if I can convert it to Vf3. I'm also wondering if I can use Model 1 or 2 can be used with the model 3 wiring that is present.
 
I finally got the coin box open:

SSZWc9Ul.jpg

j0CO7v3l.jpg


Yeah, thats not official sega lol, but the quarters are a welcome addition. A friend is going to hook me up with a coin box.


I started working on the PSU/Sound amp

Full recap of the psu and filter cap, recapped the sound amp and installed a noctura fan. Also cleaned up some cap leakage in the psu area.
H9RCRQtm.jpg

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Sound was still low, and I thought the volume was cranked to max, but the volume knob was glued down by coke. Going to use some degreaser and simple green to clean it out.
 
Hatsune Mike said:
Are you running mono audio? If so, if it's buzzing, tinny, and not loud, resistor R1 is your guy in the PSU.
Click to expand...
Right now it’s stereo, model 3- the culprit was the volume pot, it was stuck from soda and chewing tobacco. Broke it free and this cab is LOUD.
 
Weather was nice, so I busted out the pressure washer, I didn't have much other choice:

o3QJ0Hil.jpg


Underneath the CP I found toothpicks and remnants of chewing tobacco, lovely.

gF6nEhSl.jpg

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Looking much better. Unfortunately the bass fishing instruction strip could not be saved, the coke and tobacco glued it in.

miPQBpIl.jpg

W467mral.jpg


I'll have to get something to loosen the stuck strips, as of now I am completely out of simple green and goo gone. I did not get a chance to mess with the 2931 yet, that is next up on things to do as everything else is in the mail or waiting to be mailed.
 
oooh cool :) working on one right now too, just replaced the coin safe door ( bunch of holes )and the coin entry ( not a fan of the chrome )

It's a bit different than the Japanese one..

- the psu is not the same, to which extent I'm not sure yet.
- there's a 120->100v step down transformer
- the sound amp powers on when the cab is plugged in ( if the rca connector's aren't plugged in, you can hear a faint buzz from the speakers when the cab is off, and the buzz gets louder if you turn up the volume knob )

I'm probably going to rewire it exactly like my JP spec one... that amp being on all the time is silly. I'll the update the AO wiki once I do that. in case you want to also do the same.
 
codecrank said:
oooh cool :) working on one right now too, just replaced the coin safe door ( bunch of holes )and the coin entry ( not a fan of the chrome )

It's a bit different than the Japanese one..

- the psu is not the same, to which extent I'm not sure yet.
- there's a 120->100v step down transformer
- the sound amp powers on when the cab is plugged in ( if the rca connector's aren't plugged in, you can hear a faint buzz from the speakers when the cab is off, and the buzz gets louder if you turn up the volume knob )

I'm probably going to rewire it exactly like my JP spec one... that amp being on all the time is silly. I'll the update the AO wiki once I do that. in case you want to also do the same.
Click to expand...
Iirc the transformer is for the force feedback for the bass reel stuff. I highly recommend you take out the psu and amp for a cleaning/recap. Many of the caps in my psu were leaking and so were the ones in the sound amp. I’ll wager a lot of these ran non stop until they were taken off location. Other than the transformer I haven’t noticed any wiring differences from the JP ones I used to have.
 
Radiantsvgun said:
Hatsune Mike said:
Are you running mono audio? If so, if it's buzzing, tinny, and not loud, resistor R1 is your guy in the PSU.
Click to expand...
Right now it’s stereo, model 3- the culprit was the volume pot, it was stuck from soda and chewing tobacco. Broke it free and this cab is LOUD.
Click to expand...
That's good, glad it was something simple.


RandomRetro said:
Hatsune Mike said:
Are you running mono audio? If so, if it's buzzing, tinny, and not loud, resistor R1 is your guy in the PSU.
Click to expand...
You suggesting replacing R1 to help with the buzzing?
Click to expand...
I had this experience a while ago.
 
@Hatsune Mike - spoke too soon, went to dig into why the chassis wasn’t working and it worked fine on the test tube I have. Tested the monitor that came with the cab, and it has died. Just arcs inside the tube.

Fortunately I have a TV tube I was saving for a donor for the windy 2s, unfortunate I will have to be forced to do a tube swap to get this thing working.
 
With some help from @DecepticonZero I worked on the tube swap this morning. Took about an hour but I had this:

zu86O6rl.jpg


then this:

NGk5pQCl.jpg


And this is where I am stopping for today:

6LAfZY2l.jpg


There is a slight purity issue in the corner, and I am thinking about just leaving it, but so far so good. This tube is incredibly nice for an Orion made. I will have to adapt the degauss connector for the nanao, as the one thats on the tube now is for a Toshiba.

Edit: so the original tube was cracked underneath the yoke. I've heard of this happening but this is a first for me. It can happen.
 
Is this the one that's been on ebay for a bit? Nice get. Good luck with the refurb :) That thing looks pretty nasty, but I'm sure you can clean up nice.

Unless you know for sure it's soda already, I wouldn't be too sure. If that thing was stored out in a garage or shed, there's a non-zero chance that's... bloody rodent excrement. When they eat rodent poison, let's just say their final hours aren't too pleasant. Wear gloves and a face covering.
 
clam_wattson said:
Is this the one that's been on ebay for a bit? Nice get. Good luck with the refurb :) That thing looks pretty nasty, but I'm sure you can clean up nice.

Unless you know for sure it's soda already, I wouldn't be too sure. If that thing was stored out in a garage or shed, there's a non-zero chance that's... bloody rodent excrement. When they eat rodent poison, let's just say their final hours aren't too pleasant. Wear gloves and a face covering.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I called him up and made an offer. Based on the condition of this, I wouldn’t be surprised if it came directly off location. The grossness is definitely Coca Cola and chewing tobacco. Both things that are abundant in the south. The actual inside of the cabinet is not that bad, just some spider webs and dust.
 
Radiantsvgun said:
codecrank said:
oooh cool :) working on one right now too, just replaced the coin safe door ( bunch of holes )and the coin entry ( not a fan of the chrome )

It's a bit different than the Japanese one..

- the psu is not the same, to which extent I'm not sure yet.
- there's a 120->100v step down transformer
- the sound amp powers on when the cab is plugged in ( if the rca connector's aren't plugged in, you can hear a faint buzz from the speakers when the cab is off, and the buzz gets louder if you turn up the volume knob )

I'm probably going to rewire it exactly like my JP spec one... that amp being on all the time is silly. I'll the update the AO wiki once I do that. in case you want to also do the same.
Click to expand...
Iirc the transformer is for the force feedback for the bass reel stuff. I highly recommend you take out the psu and amp for a cleaning/recap. Many of the caps in my psu were leaking and so were the ones in the sound amp. I’ll wager a lot of these ran non stop until they were taken off location. Other than the transformer I haven’t noticed any wiring differences from the JP ones I used to have.
Click to expand...
nope, it's stepdown for the monitor chassis ( and maybe psu ). I'm on my 5th blast now, but this is the first bass city I get.

the psu is in good shape, it powers a netdimm setup perfectly. There's no buzzing when something is plugged in, it's just wired funky. I'll have to map it out and put a diagram on the AO wiki, the US manual printed manual didn't have a wiring diagram.
 
Some updates, good and bad:

QEAjjqkl.jpg


Thats not good,

ozZsuuRl.jpg


Better.

So the tube does fit, but the bezel does not, well not 100% flush anyway. The curvature is a match, but whats throwing this off, the TV tube has the mounts in a different position. So if the bezel is going to sit flush, I am going to have to figure out how to rear mount it even further. For now I am leaving it, its a battle for another day.

Unfortunately, just like @codecrank, my blast has some funky wiring. I dont know what the OP did, but he did something funky when he tried to bypass the front door kill switch. The marquee light always stays on for some reason, so thats another battle. On my next off day I am going to pull the model 3 and the monitor again and see if I can make heads or tails of the wiring.
 
Been awhile since an update.

Anyhow, I was having audio issues and was hoping it wasnt the speakers. I did the resistor swap for a new one, no change. So I got some help from @mR_CaESaR - he informed me of what speakers to purchase and that I'd have to dismantle the cabinet to do so.

After pulling the cabinet apart I got the speakers:

42xXtIUl.jpg


Gross to say the least, and why the cabinet sounds so bad. After some purchases on amazon and parts express:

pVsWpKal.jpg

02LAqIwl.jpg


Huge improvement and no more scratchy sound.

Still have some pin and purity issues with the cabinet, there is some weird magnetism going on inside of the cabinet. I can tune it just right outside of the cabinet, but inside is a mess. However, this is the best I can get it:

mc7LdqUl.jpg

Z96fwXrl.jpg


I've also sourced a replacement coin box door:

i58X0Ijl.jpg


Still have a lot of to dos, but I need more parts, I am missing some tangs, and I need a new I/O board.
 
Wow, great work! I’m actually half through replacing my speakers with the same on my blast. How did you get the speaker boxes back in the narrow slot with the extra width that those Aurasound speakers add? Did you dremel them or just push them in with force?
 
stringbean said:
Wow, great work! I’m actually half through replacing my speakers with the same on my blast. How did you get the speaker boxes back in the narrow slot with the extra width that those Aurasound speakers add? Did you dremel them or just push them in with force?
Click to expand...
They are tight squeeze but you _can_ get them in. In my experience, I did so with the back half of the cabinet removed. Some folks bend up the mounting brackets to avoid removing the back, but that's not my style.

edit: Probably goes without saying, but make sure you have the alignment just right. I also had to be VERY careful about the hot glue I used for the sealant around the crevices. There's really only enough clearance for the metal bracket of the speaker. Any thicker than that and I think you'll run into problems. I used a razer blade to trim the sealent flush with the speakers' square brackets.
 
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