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oof, those screws are expensive.
Thanks for the link though.

Last night I took the cleaned-up chassis and started mapping out the caps.
MCdjWX5l.jpg


All the caps pulled. The previous owner told me he did a cap replacement within the last 5 years, but that was only half true. He replaced maybe 6 caps, but the rest were stock! :( AND those caps he replaced were cheap low-end ones like Jamicon and Elna.
XWi5Xo6l.jpg


Here's the mapping. Sorry I didn't sort the list on the right by number, should have done that...oh well.

LPzeiD9l.jpg


I found 2 damaged pads when I desoldered those caps. I for sure didn't damage them, as you can see one of them looks like a cold joint, but that's just 'cause that one side of the pad is gone. The previous owner must of torched them. Continuity still checks out, but they're hanging on by a thread! I might have to jump these connections for peace-of-mind.
S1KXNYGl.jpg



Another annoyance is there's a whole lot of silicone glue/paste holding caps down. Some of the glue is holding caps that have no business needing to be held, like the bigger 100uF caps that have thick legs and solder. Those things ain't going anywhere, no point in gluing them down.
It's like someone spunked all over this chassis.
qN4UGtKl.jpg


I haven't nailed down what variant of the MS8-26 this is, because there are a lot of information out there that isn't clear. There are a few known variants, MS8-26A, 26SU, 26SG, and 26SE?

I speculated that I have the 26SG due to the monitor model sheet inside the cabinet, but I wasn't 100% sure. When cabs changes hands in it's history, you never know what was left stock and what was replaced. So I wanted to varify what monitor chassis this actually is.

After talking to Peter from arcadepartsandrepair.com he sent me a cap list of his kit for the 26SG. I compared it to the caps I pulled from the chassis and neckboard and noticed there are some differences:
FH483rLl.png


2 of the caps are at different values, and 1 of the caps is missing on my chassis.

I am not sure if the previous owner just put in the incorrect values on those caps that don't match, but what's weird is that my chassis is missing a C579. The serial numbers on my chassis and the neckboard both match what arcadepartsandrepair have listed on their 26SG kit page. So I'm confused as to why these 3 caps are not consistent with that cap kit list.

Anyone have any information you can share so I can lock down this variant? I'm waiting to hear back from Peter at arcadepartsandrepair. Hope he might know what's up. It's so weird.

Later today I'm going to tackle touch-up paint on the monitor bezel. This train keeps rollin'!
 
I heard back from ArcadePartsAndRepair about the SG kit and the discrepancies between the 3 caps:

Peter @ www.arcadepartsandrepair.com said:
That kit is probably correct for your chassis because that 22uf was upgraded to the 33uf and the cap that is missing isn’t uncommon to find and I would leave it out if the solder looks like it never had one installed plus if it was working. Just add a note to your order to upgrade two of the 33uf caps to 250v just to be safe and someone here will change them in the kit for you.
I’m going to trust Peter and say this is an MS8-26SG. Cap kit ordered. I can’t recommend arcadepartsandrepair.com enough, lots of stock for our needs, and great communication and service.

In the meantime, there’s still more bodywork to do.

The monitor bezel was a bit rusty, so I took sandpaper to it then repainted it right at sundown, just before it got dark outside:

v0KOiofl.jpg


Bt44CZOl.jpg


Turned out really nice.
SKFSjlpl.jpg


While the bezel is drying I went back to the craft store and picked up a darker blue enamel that closer matches the side art.

The blue is definitely a closer match, if not just a hair darker, but you can’t really tell unless you were up close:
WtEaqVkl.jpg


Tried to blend it as best I could:
P4HT1IZl.jpg


The other side is a bit harder to hide. Lots more damage to the side art:
VuE2rSCl.jpg


Tonight I’ve got to prep for tomorrow’s stream, so I’m probably only going to clean the dirty wiring I pulled from the cab.
 
That blue really worked out well to touch up the art. And love the Aero dusk photo shoot! Thing loves the camera.
 
You always have epic restorations, and even more epic restoration documentation. 10/10!
 
Looking good.
The Aero is a cab I always wanted. Hell, I'd take a wooden one if available.
 
2 of the caps are at different values, and 1 of the caps is missing on my chassis.
I just checked my notes. I have marked both C431 and C432 as 33uF 100V. Also, I compared the map I have drawn with the one you made, and it's the same. So I have no idea what that C579 is supposed to be.
 
good job, Aero city is the best design for me, I need to clean one chassis but in France simple green not avallable what can I use for it?
 
2 of the caps are at different values, and 1 of the caps is missing on my chassis.
I just checked my notes. I have marked both C431 and C432 as 33uF 100V. Also, I compared the map I have drawn with the one you made, and it's the same. So I have no idea what that C579 is supposed to be.
apparently it’s a cap near the Flyback on certain variants , and in those variants it seems that some have it populated and some don’t. I’ve read a bunch of posts about it on klov, AO and Aussie and it seems to be a mixed bag. It’s supposed to be a 1uF @ 50v.
I’m going to leave it out since it didn’t have it installed before. It’s not even silkscreened on my pcb.
Speaking of cap maps, I got your aero psu cap map thread bookmarked :thumbsup:


good job, Aero city is the best design for me, I need to clean one chassis but in France simple green not avallable what can I use for it?
do you have a non-toxic, high concentrated cleaner there? The nice thing about simple green is it’s safe on everything, it’s biodegradable and doesn’t leave any residue. Is there something like this Europe you can use? Non-toxic, biodegradable, concentrated cleaner.
 
Can you share more pics? It's been more than 12 hours since we've seen progress. Are you ok? :D
 
The service door was funky, especially on the bottom edge. Bunch of rust and scratches.
Jqscq4jl.jpg


So I sanded it down the best I could and prepped it for a fresh coat of paint (making sure to tape off the stickers):
cxSgD5xl.jpg


Also got the cash box door prepped for a refresh:
4lJ10BJl.jpg


Boom!
ydxLHc8l.jpg


kVTkMzRl.jpg


Also threw some paint on the Control Panel base, getting ready for my top panel surround to arrive:
jFQqyCQ.jpg


I pivoted from the painting while waiting for these pieces to dry, and concentrated efforts on the metal parts at the base. They were suffering from some build-up from the elements, maybe water scum, mixed with dirt...who knows.
O9cJf1e.jpg


As the man of the house, I'm relegated to doing the crappy chores, like putting out the trash, or scrubbing the bathrooms. So I know the best way to get scum off of the facets is to use CLR. You just spray the metals, let it sit for 5-10 mins and let the foam do the work for you. Then you just lightly scrub it away with a magic eraser and they come out looking shiny.

iRUVjJi.jpg


Mirror-like finish!
ndBhf6j.jpg


I really want to reassemble everything, so after my stream tonight I'm going to try to put all the parts back together and snap some pics. Exciting!


You always have epic restorations, and even more epic restoration documentation. 10/10!
Thanks, man. Aside from doing the actual restoration, I do enjoy bringing people along on the journey. It's also a nice way to keep myself motivated to keep pushing forward, building up the hype and having people be as excited to see the end result as I am. :thumbsup:
 
apparently it’s a cap near the Flyback on certain variants , and in those variants it seems that some have it populated and some don’t. I’ve read a bunch of posts about it on klov, AO and Aussie and it seems to be a mixed bag. It’s supposed to be a 1uF @ 50v. I’m going to leave it out since it didn’t have it installed before. It’s not even silkscreened on my pcb.
Speaking of cap maps, I got your aero psu cap map thread bookmarked :thumbsup:
I tried taking pictures of my chassis from the back panel access on my Aero for the caps I recall being troubling. It was too much of a pain in the ass though and I don't feel like taking out the monitor right now. But going by an old photo I can point out an area you can check just to be sure.

yUaXDhU.jpg


The red circle was a capacitor that might be what your talking about. I recall it's value was disputed among the many different forums I visited. I ended up going with the highest voltage value recommended. Right next to it was a resistor I changed that was declared unsafe. Think I got that information from KLOV. Because of that white hardened jizz stuff it was blocking the components underneath!

The yellow circle was actually another capacitor that I couldn't find because not only was it covered with the jizz, it also had this weird plastic cap on top of it.
 
I couldn't wait. Had to see how all these painted parts looked together.

1whUHp8l.jpg


YuCPFCHl.jpg
Super clean. The determination you have is unreal. It would probably take me months to get to where you're at right now with this Aero.
 
yUaXDhU.jpg



The red circle was a capacitor that might be what your talking about. I recall it's value was disputed among the many different forums I visited. I ended up going with the highest voltage value recommended. Right next to it was a resistor I changed that was declared unsafe. Think I got that information from KLOV. Because of that white hardened jizz stuff it was blocking the components underneath!

The yellow circle was actually another capacitor that I couldn't find because not only was it covered with the jizz, it also had this weird plastic cap on top of it.
Thank you. Yeah, the red circle is present on my board, C433. I pulled it and it matched the Arcadepartsandrepair cap kit --> 10uF @ 50v. Well, actually mine was at 25v, but you can totally use higher voltage rated caps, so the kit should be good.

The yellow one on mine (C537) also had a weird plastic condom on it. Mine wasn't covered in the spooge though, so I was able to find it.

Referring to the KLOV post about identifying MS8 chassis', the 26SU has the missing cap, C579 up in the corner near the flyback. My chassis doesn't have that cap, nor is it's location silkscreened onto the PCB. I did a search on the multiple arcade forums and it seems that some chassis' have it, some don't. It's very strange.
CapMapMS8_26SUFinal_zpsa9f9cddd.jpg

Anyway, Peter at Arcadepartsandrepair recommended I get higher voltage caps like you did for a couple of the key HV areas. So I opted for that too.

That unsafe resistor, was it the one that's in the middle of the metal bracket next to that cap you circled in red?
I think I read about that one too.


Super clean. The determination you have is unreal. It would probably take me months to get to where you're at right now with this Aero.
Haha, thanks bro! 8o I'm a dad of 2 kids so my time is super finite, I gotta push to get as much as I can do in the small free time I have. It's all about organizing the things that I can group together in a day. I basically map out each day of what I want to accomplish, then if i can get that task done and still have time left over, I start the next thing. There have been a couple days where i kill a couple tasks in one day.

Plus I hate having projects that last too long, because they tend to pile up.
 
Glad I'm not the only one that washes filthy dirty monitor electronics in the sink. :)
 
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