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noonan2678

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Sorry for the seemingly simple question, but does anyone have a good source for CPS2 battery replacements? I'm not sure of the specs and everywhere I've found seems to be either old defunct links or out of stock.

Thanks!
 
The battery is a 3.6V 1/2AA. You want one with tabs or axial leads.
 
I found this link recommended on shoryuken.com (I believe). Cheapest place they can be found. No idea on the shelf life though.
 
Some people recommend the sockets but many of us, like me, recommend against it. It has been discussed in other threads here so do your research and decide for yourself.
 
that way, you never have trouble soldering that board again ;)
Some people recommend the sockets but many of us, like me, recommend against it.
What Mits is referring to and as he has stated so eloquently previously is that using a battery holder doubles the points of failure and increases the chances of your board suiciding two-fold. A soldered-in axial lead battery has two points of failure by default. A battery holder adds in 2 more additional points of failure between the holder contacts with the battery while still not eliminating the solder points. Its your investment. So think about the risk as you are trading a small amount of convenience for twice the risk. Lastly, if you are a purist which so many arcade collectors tend to be, a battery holder just isn't OG.

Risk vs reward. Every 5 years, decrease the effort by 60 seconds with a little less soldering while increasing the risk of failure 200%, or spend that extra 60 seconds soldering in that battery once every 5 years and save peace of mind. The latter gets all 10 votes I would think.
 
That one looks right, unless it is really 40mAh as listed in the description. As long as that's just a typo it should be OK. They're supposed to be 1200mAh. You might want to ask the seller for the date code off it first too. I see a bunch with 2013 codes, which seems old already.
 
Don't forget; unlike the CPS3 battery switches, the CPS2 board can survive without the battery for enough time for you to steadily de-solder the old one and re-solder the new one in. Plus, and I'm not sure if further information has been released, folks have figured out how to re-populate the decryption keys on suicided boards. So even if the board does suicide, it's not permanently dead. It can be revived just as Capcom would have.
 
CPS2 key rewriting is being tested currently. It will be released on the same format as Kabuki and B-21 key writing format (same Arduino + LCD shield + cabling hardware and .ino file for programming in it).
 
Leo, will we also know where the keys where actually stored and what was the funcion of each custom on the B Board? Just curious....
 
Leo, will we also know where the keys where actually stored and what was the funcion of each custom on the B Board? Just curious....
That I can tell you right now:

DL-1827 (CIF, I presume Character InterFace)
Controls the CPS2 sprite generator hardware. Has 16KB/16bit of SRAM connected to it, divided in two banks of 8KB/16bit. 16KB is enough to take two sprite lists which are swapped every frame. CIF also is part of the interface for keys upload. It's unknown at the time how the keys are uploaded to SPA from CIF.

DL-1525 (SPA, I don't know what SPA means)
This is a custom Motorola chip which has the 68000 core and the cryptographic engine. Keys are stored here.

DL-2027 (CGD, I presume it is Character Generator Data)
Do de-interleaving and splitting, latching of graphics data. The CPS2 re-uses all of the CPS1 graphics subsystem, (all but the sprites) so the CGA/CGD chips are supposed to translate the new roms into the old format that CPS A and B chips need to function (for the scroll layers)

DL-1927 (CGA, I suppose it means Character Generator Address)
Works in pair with CGD, latches addresses within the graphics ROMs.
 
@l_oliveira interesting.....

So theoretically one could have a CPS2 with a CPU other than a 68k running there, right?
 
Maybe but I believe you would need to make a new B board. We need to lift the chips pinouts to figure out how that would need to be done.
 
you'd definitely need a new B board as the processor pinout would be different. You could even use different video chips. What is actually running on the A Board?
 
Most of the graphics hardware, the CPU work RAM, the I/O stuff and all of the sound hardware.
 
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