Sega Genesis Controller To Jamma

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    • 30Khz? This thing would be still stable at 3.3Mhz ... lol

      Maybe 5Mhz.

      Well I get your point, too but I feel like it's a waste use a MCU for just this and even then would still need a big one with enough pins ( this does both players at same time. The only thing that would justify using a MCU on something like this is remap-able buttons, USB connectivity or enabling other complex protocols. (Maybe have it work with the Nights 3D controller or the Flight stick)
    • l_oliveira wrote:

      30Khz? This thing would be still stable at 3.3Mhz ... lol

      Maybe 5Mhz.

      Well I get your point, too but I feel like it's a waste use a MCU for just this and even then would still need a big one with enough pins ( this does both players at same time. The only thing that would justify using a MCU on something like this is remap-able buttons, USB connectivity or enabling other complex protocols. (Maybe have it work with the Nights 3D controller or the Flight stick)
      I'm not trying to knock or put down your setup, just offering up an alternative. They both have their merits and their pitfalls.

      As for being a waste, the 16F690 only costs about $2 so I'm not quite sure how it's a "waste" on a setup like this. Simple logic tasks are what these chips are best suited for. you could easily port the code to an even cheaper lower model chip too, I just happened to have a bunch of these laying around when I made it.

      This particular model is equipped with an A/D converter so You could absolutely tweak the code and get it to work with an analog controller. Unfortunately when I built it I couldn't find any good documentation on the Nights controller protocol otherwise I would have made it compatible with that as well.
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    • The controllers have internal A/D converters so no analog signal ever reaches the pins on the connector. So in fact, having A/D on the PIC would still be useful if you wanted to, for example make some adjustable auto fire or turbo feature using a slider for speed control (where you would use the A/D to calculate the position of the speed potentiometer).


      Here, from NFG Games:

      nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3726.msg25248#msg25248
    • l_oliveira wrote:

      The controllers have internal A/D converters so no analog signal ever reaches the pins on the connector. So in fact, having A/D on the PIC would still be useful if you wanted to, for example make some adjustable auto fire or turbo feature using a slider for speed control (where you would use the A/D to calculate the position of the speed potentiometer).


      Here, from NFG Games:

      nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3726.msg25248#msg25248
      The Saturn controllers might output an all digital signal but most JAMMA games expect an analog signal input because they're usually hooked straight to 5K pots ;)

      EDIT: looking at the nfggames link the SaturnAV fellow he mentions actually contacted me with info regarding the Analog signal but there was still a little confusion as to how it worked and communication was difficult so it wasn't pursued further... looking at the info that ulao posted though this stuck out "this code work for a mission stick, but be sure to have a 15 ms delay between calls." That's a HUGE delay... how is that thing even playable if it's that slow X/
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      The post was edited 1 time, last by twistedsymphony ().

    • Most JAMMA games I ever repaired had input lines like this:


      Brainfuck Source Code

      1. +5v>------------1k
      2. inp>----300r----+-------> to some digital input circuit like 74LS245 or similar
      3. GND>------||----|

      The analog parts being some custom hybrid like HIC-001(Early Capcom stuff), CK084(CPS1/2) or CRE401 (Neo Geo).

      That's nothing analog. Those are de-bouncing/protection for digital switches inputs. A couple of these hybrid protection modules use 10K resistors as pullups for inputs but most use 1K pullups and that's a little too strong for using conductive rubber contacts. That's why the NeoGeo CD controller has amplifier transistors for each of the buttons. It is supposed to work on the original Neo Geo (which uses 1K pullups).
    • l_oliveira wrote:

      Most JAMMA games I ever repaired had input lines like this:


      Brainfuck Source Code

      1. +5v>------------1k
      2. inp>----300r----+-------> to some digital input circuit like 74LS245 or similar
      3. GND>------||----|
      The analog parts being some custom hybrid like HIC-001(Early Capcom stuff), CK084(CPS1/2) or CRE401 (Neo Geo).

      That's nothing analog. Those are de-bouncing/protection for digital switches inputs. A couple of these hybrid protection modules use 10K resistors as pullups for inputs but most use 1K pullups and that's a little too strong for using conductive rubber contacts. That's why the NeoGeo CD controller has amplifier transistors for each of the buttons. It is supposed to work on the original Neo Geo (which uses 1K pullups).
      I was referring to JAMMA games with analog controls like analog joysticks, steering wheels, pedals, etc. not digital controls like buttons and 8-ways.

      I've been doing quite a bit of work with Analog controls lately, mostly with NAOMI and Taito Type X stuff. (and I use to repair a lot of the older stuff like Final Lap, and Thunder Blade back in the day) All of them feed the pots either directly into the game board, or into an I/O board (like a JVS I/O) that you wouldn't want to be bypassing.

      To be fair most of the games, even if they are JAMMA don't use the JAMMA edge connector for the analog inputs.
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    • Sorry to revive an old thread, but I wanted to share my experience following Alex's instructions on hooking a genesis controller up to a jamma harness.

      On my first go of it, I ended up with some buttons that were always registering--I'd be playing a shooter and bombs would be going off all the time ^^
      I hooked it up to a jamma tester and saw buttons faintly lit--

      I guess I did not cut the traces well enough?--here is a pic of the controller:


      Eventually I did get it working well enough; It is a bit of a mess though--anyone know where to source those grey 9 pin plugs?


      Overall I'm very happy with how it turned out!
    • jac wrote:


      anyone know where to source those grey 9 pin plugs?
      If you're talking about the dsub connectors, I think I got mine at Fry's for < $1 each or you can find them on amazon or pretty much anywhere else that would have connectors and the like.
    • Frank_fjs wrote:

      I make these, 6 button Mega Drive to Neo-Geo (DB15) connectors, with the MODE button hooked up as COIN.
      These support the 6 button controllers without hacking anything up? I like. <insert cliche Fry meme here>