Best Driving Cab for Multi Kit?

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    • Best Driving Cab for Multi Kit?

      Not quite done with my all in one shooting cab yet but thought I might keep an eye out for a best all around Lindbergh driving cab...

      Is there a driving cab that would play most of the driving games in a multi kit? Games like Outrun2, Initial D, Rtuned, SegaRaceTv etc...

      I haven't done the research into how similarly everything is wired together, but has anyone put their multi boot in a driving cab, and how did it turn out?

      It would be great to have a driving cab that didn't need to be extensively required for each game!
    • charles4400 wrote:

      Not quite done with my all in one shooting cab yet but thought I might keep an eye out for a best all around Lindbergh driving cab...

      Is there a driving cab that would play most of the driving games in a multi kit? Games like Outrun2, Initial D, Rtuned, SegaRaceTv etc...

      I haven't done the research into how similarly everything is wired together, but has anyone put their multi boot in a driving cab, and how did it turn out?

      It would be great to have a driving cab that didn't need to be extensively required for each game!
      There are so many....the obvious choice to be able to play a majority of those games I would have to say is an ID5/6, ID4, ID7/8 driving cab. All of those games play really well minus a few modifications.

      Modification #1a: You need to re-wire one of the arrow buttons (or use view change or the start button to perform two functions) or add a button somewhere to act as the boost button for Sega Race TV and Rtuned Upright.
      Modification #2a: Harley Davidson King of the Road you need to have a way to switch the gas pedal and steering (these controls are swapped)
      Modification #3a: Rather than keeping a wired keyboard somewhere inconvenient, you can use a wireless keyboard and tack it on to the left side panel of the steering wheel dash for easy access to choose your game. (Something like this: smile.amazon.com/FAVI-Wireless…pad-Pointer/dp/B003UE52ME) This is also a good place to mount the test/service buttons instead of having it inside the coin door. This area of the dash is sometimes used by Arcade centers to add their own custom card readers for paying customers.

      I can't remember the other modifications I have done off the top of my head to make it work with the others but it all depends on which games you play often and the effort you'd like to put into it.

      Second best cab would be a ID1,2,3 cabinet (non deluxe). It has the same exact wiring and controls minus the real estate to fit a Lindbergh without extra wiggle room.

      Modification #1b: Replace the CRT tube with a 24" or higher monitor.
      Modification #2b: Same as Modification #1a above but without the Arrow keys.
      Modification #3b: Same as Modification #2a above.
      Modification #4b: Replacing the CRT makes it difficult to use the monitor controls without completely removing the glass and bezel and adding a custom bezel. There is a wood shelf inside (if you do not have a japanese model SEGA cabinet) that can be used to shelf the monitor or you can completely remove it and use a VESA mounting arm.

      Note: ID5/6/7/8 cabinet has plenty of room under the seat to fit an additional kit if you wanted to go hardcore and make a switch to go from a Lindbergh Kit to using another machine like a RingEdge or another Lindbergh with a dedicated game.

      Good luck with this!
    • charles4400 wrote:

      Thanks for those suggestions, so it looks like ID cabs are the way to go then.... it's unfortunate they don;t turn up here that often..or I'm looking in the wrong places....

      I'll keep an eye out thanks!
      It really depends where you look. Try to see if you can talk to some of the arcade centers near you. Sometimes they know of distributors that are offloading these cabs. I was able to snag mine from an arcade center that needed to get rid of theirs. Based on your location, you can try to talk with someone at Round1 if it's close by to find out if they know where to go for used cabs.
    • What's the opinion on the flexibility of a regular Crazy Taxi cab? I have an opportunity to pick one up cheap. I have a spare Naomi 2 I can throw in it. But as I understand it, ID games only work in automatic mode in that cab. Also, what mods are needed to get full functionality out of a Crazy Taxi game for full ID functionality?
    • You can use a CT cab. It's a matter of the shifter not being wired the same as ID3 (but you have all controls needed if you reroute wires), and you won't have force feedback since CT doesn't come with it. I'm not sure how feasible it is to integrate force feedback into a steering wheel that doesn't have it. Not only do you need the motor, board and wiring, you have to be able to mount the motor and a belt to the steering wheel.

      If I had the opportunity to get CT cheap, I'd go for it, personally. But I got my OR2SP cab for $350, so CT would need to be way less than that for me. I think I got a good, rare deal. I'm not saying OR2SPs are readily available at that price or anything. It did sit for months on CL before I bought it a few years ago, though.
    • acblunden2 wrote:

      Ok, that is good 411. I'll wait for a better deal then. FF is the difference between the console experience and the intense arcade experience. Could use more space now anyway :)
      Also don't forget that console steering wheels are not 900 degrees. Most are 270 or something less.

      To also add to the Crazy Taxi and Initial D (non deluxe) or OutRun 2 cabs, the steering wheel and control panel have a specific weight to it. If you were to replace the Crazy Taxi panel with one of these, you'd have to make sure the Crazy Taxi enclosure can support the weight of this as well.
    • winteriscoming wrote:

      I guess turn radius is a consideration, too. I don't have the details, but apparently that's a difference between OR2 and ID3 that I never think about. I think ID has a greater turn radius, but I've been playing it fine in OR2.
      I've used OR2 on my ID cab and I never noticed this difference but when you over turn in OR2 on the ID wheel, the reaction is very tight. It's hard to explain but basically what you said, the turn radius is greater but in OR2, it works pretty well.
    • WMMT has a dedicated FFB setup that I believe is the same hardware as Mario Kart, and may be compatible with DIP switch changes. Otherwise it won't work with other JVS drivers that I'm aware of. Like the Crazy Taxi setup, it's probably not feasible to retrofit the Sega FFB (either MIDI or RS455).

      It has a unique 6 position shifter that really wouldn't work with OR2/ID3. Even if you had a control remapping solution, the shifter doesn't self-center like the 2-position OR2/ID3 one does.

      It doesn't have a Start button required by a lot of other games, but could be addressed with a control remapping solution.

      Having said that, I'd love a dedicated WMMT cab. I have only played 1 and 2 in my OR2SP cab and think it's about the most fun racer I've played, though I don't have a lot of experience with the Lindbergh drivers yet. I like it better than ID3.

      I actually bought a pair of 6-way shifters just for this game and will retro fit one onto OR2SP eventually.

      An eventual goal of mine is developing a FFB protocol translator to get WMMT working with the Sega MIDI FFB.

      At any rate, while you could boot and play other JVS drivers in it, you'd be missing FFB on most and probably would need automatic transmission mode on most.