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Capcom I/O clone issues

Cell

Cell

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I posted a thread last week looking for help with a button issue I was having. Button 4 on the 2 player side in my cab wasn't working. I traced it all the way to the Jamma harness and it works to that point. The two wires are on the underside of the Jamma harness. "b" = black wire & "Y" = purple with white stripe. I used a multimeter and verified that these wires worked from the control panel past 2 sections of AMP connectors down to the harness.

That leaves me with the knockoff Capcom I/O and it has some wires soldered to what I think is the 4 player connector? I would like to try and fix this without having to by a new I/O. If anyone can take a look at my pics and offer some advice, that would be great. Basically Im pretty sure the wires that are soldered to the 4th connection from the right is what is stopping button 4 on the 2 player side from working.

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I would undue all the jumpered wires going to the extra button connector, looks like P1 & P2 #4 button is tied to the same pin on the extra button connector. Why they did that I have no clue unless they were trying to use this with a neo geo cab or something. Can you take higher res pics?
 
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Here are those same pics just bigger. Im at work and these are the pics I took last night. So you think I should just get rid of all of the cables?

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The blue and yellow wire are not needed as these are not used in jamma applications. I believe they are used for audio in certain applications/boards

The black jumper wire on the parts side is connecting 2 ferrite bead (think of them as coils) basically frequency filters, no idea why they are doing that.

On Jamma edge connector parts side - The black wire (Pin 25 - Jamma not connected/neo geo P1 button D or 4) & white wire(Pin 26 - Jamma not connected - Neo Geo P1 "select" button)

On Jamma edge connector solder side - The red wire (Pin 25 - Jamma not connected/neo geo P2 button D or 4) & green wire(Pin 26 - Jamma not connected - Neo Geo P2 "select" button)

So I dont see the need for any of those jumper wires, if you dont want to unsolder them, cut them, then test. You can always splice them back if you think you need them. But I am sure you wont.

Make sure to check for shorted solder points/pins at the kick harness connector.
 
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Thank you so much. Ill work on it when I get home.
 
You're welcome, let me know how you make out. I hope this solves your issues.
 
I decided to cut the wires. Now none of the 4-6 buttons on either side work.
 
Which wire exactly did you cut? And that is crazy, never seen that before, damn cloned hardware. Well at, at least you can tie wires together again.

Ok, can you post higher res pics of the pins they soldered to on the kick harness connector? I want to get a close look at what they are doing there.
 
Ok, so now that we now why the jumpers are there, test continuity between jamma edge connector pad with red wire and pin 21 at the kick connector, if good then follow pin #21's trace to next component,point and keep testing for continuity, those traces are microscopic, there is probably a break somewhere or defective component.
 
I have this exact same "Plotech" clone / "knockoff" board, I know this is years later, but let me know if I can do any sanity checking for you.
 
The differences you are referencing are basically JAMMA vs JAMMA+.

JAMMA+ isn't really a standard, not like JAMMA was...
The Blue Elf as you pointed out puts buttons 4,5,6 on the edge, that is technically against the original spec.

I blame SNK for being the first to deviate by placing the 4th button on the edge, it was all downhill after that.
Capcom intelligently placed additional buttons on a separate "kicks" harness, as did a few others.

Blue Elf just said "fuck it" and did whatever they wanted.
 
that jamma pinout is incomplete anyway - it's missing stuff like "test", "service" coin-meters etc.
 
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