Troubleshooting Tips

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    • Troubleshooting Tips

      1. Yes, bent pins in shipping. Really this is a two part issue. One part is we decided to order different pins that are smaller so they are more fragile. This was to protect the integrity of the sockets themselves. And trust me, the thicker pins were SOOOOO HARD to install. Took me 45 minutes to install the proto. It is a trade-off but it was the right call. We are thinking of sending some extra pins just in case. Also, the packaging is being reinforced a bit with more filler to keep everything stable in shipping. A lesser problem is that the pins are all hand soldered and it seems some were not soldered completely flush with the pcb. That is an easy fix going forward. Also, we have ordered reinforcement pcbs to guide and keep all pins stable on the main kit pcb. These will auto ship with all orders going out in the next batch. (already happening now)


      2. Scrambled sprites or sound. This has been fixed in two ways. One---the kit was not installed correctly, either misaligned or just not pushed in enough. Two---the user didn't watch my prep video and didn't have the jumpers or PAL set up correctly. Easy fix. Watch the video people and when you install the kit take your time but use firm pressure to secure the pins in the sockets.


      3. Solid screens on boot. The kit will say flashing the game and then playing the game but the screen is just a solid color. Sometimes white, sometimes red or orange, etc. This USUALLY has come down to incorrect writes of the rom the the SD card. But it also can come down to the old problem with encryption bits causing the decrypted code to not run, even if boards dead for years. In that case, shorting the EXC5 component, just as you would with your B-board with phoenix roms installed from time-to-time, has fixed this issue several times. As for the SD card writes, if you use IDCs sets he released and just copy it to the root of the card you should be fine. You should have the card formatted in FAT32, a 'GAMES' folder should be in the root. And the folders for each game should be in the 'Games' folder. Each game should have a 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11 file in it's folder. (NOTE: Some games do have files .01 - .12)


      One other problem with the cards seems to be exclusive to the MAC user as a member of AO helped troubleshoot. It seems the MAC OS writes some unnecessary files to the SD card which confuses the write process causing the roms to load incorrectly and not boot. Here is his advice to you MAC users:


      I've figured it out!! I use a Mac which uses lots of invisible files for indexing with names like ".DS_Store" which I presume confused the board when it was writing the flash memory.

      In case anyone else has this issue: put the SD card back in the mac, open the terminal application and type:
      Code: Select all
      dot_clean /Volumes/CPS2

      where CPS2 is the Volume name of the SD card.

      This will remove all the hidden dot files and allow your games to flash properly
      If you install the small interconnect pcb backwards the kit will act like this also since the program data will be read incorrectly from the kit.


      Keep in mind we don't want anyone suiciding their pcb but we already know it is happening some. If you do not let the encyption data expire then the kit will not boot. It does not die immediately after removing the battery.


      Also, if you do receive your kit damaged where it can't be used then get up with us. We WILL get you fixed up one way or another.



      Take your time installing the kit. If you have any problems then just contact us. We will do my best to troubleshoot with you. Thanks to those of you who have faith in us. Anyone who has done business with me knows I am a man of character. .


      Hope this has been informative and has eased some minds.
    • To add to the list of problems with Macs: Never edit any of the config or name-files with textedit. I've torn my hair out not understanding what was wrong with my Naomi NetBoot config-files, and my MAME-map-files, as they look perfect - but saving them in textedit just once can make them unreadable. Guessing this might apply here as well.

      (This is probably a well known issue with an easy fix that all tech savvy people know about. If so, please share below)
    • Hey Mits/Darksoft,

      Please keep us posted on the 'crackling audio' issue if you could. Seems a fair amount of people are having the issue. Just a bit of a shame to have such a great kit with this issue.

      Is this something one of you guys will be actively investigating, or have boards been sent to anyone else to investigate further? Just hoping it isn't going to be put aside and forgotten.

      I originally thought it was limited to older revision boards, but I was reading in the AO forum, and people are having this problem on newer boards too - one user, jassin000, with a Marvel vs Capcom board, which was a native G PAL rev 7 board:
      forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopi…8768&hilit=marvel#p428768

      Any updates would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
    • Solid black screen here. Still early in to troubleshooting. I did manage to get a flash write to happen but nothing after that... no reboot... no change in screen... just black (actually very very dark gray but as close to black as you're going to get). EXC5... I guess what i need to do to short this component is to simply short all 3 legs?

      EDIT: OK... so I just tried loading up a couple other games. Each game flashed properly with the "HAVE FUN" message at the end. None showed any change to my screen... no reset... nothing. Almost as if I don't have anything plugged in to the harness (which I tried to see if there was a difference and there was... with the PCB installed I "am" getting a border edge from pitch black to very dark gray... without the harness plugged in at all it's all black with an occasion sync issue.). I did run my screwdriver over the middle and left and middle and right pins on the back side of the PCB of EXC5...

      I also went through and re-re-pressed down on all connections, etc.

      FWIW I am using an A+B combo I bought from TNT as "dead by clean" and it is dead but clean with the battery removed. I don't even have another CPS2 board to test this one on... A or B. It would be much easier if I had 1 more A and 1 more B board but I don't. :(

      Come to think of it I may have a untested A board with broken plastic out in the shed... I'll have to check and swap in that A board to see what happens.

      Of course any suggestion would be grateful.

      EDIT: I just realized (I'm operating from the back of the cabinet right now) that during the flash process my screen does go "all darK' then when completes the dark gray/black comes back with the straight border.

      I'm running out of things to do.
      My arcade blog: www.idahogaragecade.com (updated 4-28-19)

      The post was edited 3 times, last by FrizzleFried ().

    • FrizzleFried wrote:

      Negative. The text faces the same way as the rest of the PCB's... it's at the left side edge of the interconnect.

      I wish it were that simple. It does sound like SOMETHING is resetting with the fact it goes all black for the program period then goes to the dark gray screen.
      Looks like the kit pcb is operating properly so you may have pins not inserting all the way or you have an A or B board problem. Make sure that the interconnect is pressed down as far as possible.
    • Mitsurugi-w wrote:

      FrizzleFried wrote:

      Negative. The text faces the same way as the rest of the PCB's... it's at the left side edge of the interconnect.

      I wish it were that simple. It does sound like SOMETHING is resetting with the fact it goes all black for the program period then goes to the dark gray screen.
      Looks like the kit pcb is operating properly so you may have pins not inserting all the way or you have an A or B board problem. Make sure that the interconnect is pressed down as far as possible.
      Fuck yes! I had the exact same problem as FrizzleFried and the interconnect was just not pushed completely down. Holy christ, I have CPS2 multi...

      Sorry, AVP just booted straight up and I'm in a bit of an elevated state :D
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    • Duo_r wrote:

      my board is working but the sounds are all messed up. If i hit punch for Ryu i hear sound effect for Dahlsim. Each characters sound effects is mixed up for every game i try. The background noise is correct however.

      Im assuming its my Paf F on my revision 6 board. I lifted pin 7 and took it to J17.
      If your PAL is set up correctly then you have an incorrect sound jumper.