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I noticed that too, she be backwards!

I'd remove all the wires, solder them in correct positions, and this time around twist the wire and tin them a little bit first so you don't end up with frayed bits of wire which can create a short.
 
Mind you, maybe you'd be better off sending it to someone who is more adept at soldering.

My concern is you're going to lift a pad attempting to remove those wires.
 
@xodaraP well spotted. If for some reason still doesn't work after re soldering, check carefully that they are not making bad contact somewhere else.
 
That was it thanks!! I accidently pulled a wire out of the connector when i was removing it so maybe i'll just re-arrange them in the connector. The connector fit on for testing just doesn't push in the wrong way so at least i could test it!

New problem though!

3.jpg
 
Those could be related to the jumpers, a bad pin or bad RAM in A Board. Are the bars always happening in the same place?
 
Does seem to be in the same place and not visible on every screen that comes up (always visible on the qsound screen doesn't matter which game).

I will doublecheck the jumpers again, to do that i need to take off the board so can check the pins too
 
Flain said:
Does seem to be in the same place and not visible on every screen that comes up (always visible on the qsound screen doesn't matter which game).

I will doublecheck the jumpers again, to do that i need to take off the board so can check the pins too
Click to expand...
post some more pictures please.
 
I just finished taking the boards off, checking all the pins are straight and put the multimeter in beep mode over all the jumpers again. Here are some pictures

jumpers1.jpg
jumpers2.jpg
jumpers3.jpg
jumpers4.jpg
jumpers5.jpg



On some screens the artifact lines are less noticeable but still there (notice inside the word predator there is artifacts)
artifact-less-noticeable.jpg


This is from D&D
artifact dnd.jpg



The other screens i posted before still have that same issue
 
Have you reseated your A and B boards and checked for bent pins between the 2?

Also, make sure your interconnect board for your multi is properly seated. Those jailbars are all through data in the main program ROMs
 
Yeah i've done a+b a few times now (i assume you mean CPS2 motherboard (a) + game board (b)). No bent pins. I also just took the darksoft kit right off again, separated allthe boards so i could check all the jumpers and put those back on too.

I don't have the b board back in its case yet, i do notice boards in their cases connect really easily while i need to push on each connector when not in the case to make sure its in tight.

I just tried another b board that i have (marvel super heroes) and it works fine so it's not the a board or bent pins on it. If i don't get anywhere i could try changing the jumpers and pal on my marvel board to try the darksoft kit on it.

Could having the keywriting wires the wrong way damaged something?
 
Hmm it worked fine before, i'll try installing on to my marvel board tomorrow, i can't see how any of the multi PCB pins could possibly be inserted any further in :(

Do i still need to use a suicided board or with keywriting is that no longer required? (ie, do i need to remove the battery on my other board?)
 
You would remove the battery on the other board because that retains the keys so you wouldn't be able to change games

I don't see the B board being the issue if it worked fine prior to you installing the multi, I think there's a loose connection somewhere

Try installing the board into the case (making sure to remove the post that gets in the way) and putting it together with the clips and see if that helps
 
xodaraP said:
You would remove the battery on the other board because that retains the keys so you wouldn't be able to change games

I don't see the B board being the issue if it worked fine prior to you installing the multi, I think there's a loose connection somewhere

Try installing the board into the case (making sure to remove the post that gets in the way) and putting it together with the clips and see if that helps
Click to expand...
I just installed it in the case and BOOM! working no lines!

wow crazy i had the a+b pressed really tight but somehow being in the case makes the connection better. I must of pressed down on all 4 connectors so hard before but it made no difference!

I'm pretty happy now thanks everyone for all the help! time to go play some games :)
 
Ran into an issue when installing a friends CPS2 Multi that I haven't seen before in the handful i've done. The Darksoft CPS2 Multi was from Paradise' 2nd to most recent pre-order (which I do believe had the firmware update with Key Writing). Installed everything and soldered the CN9 connections to the Multikit. Popped in the SD card (it was from another CPS2 Multi so had a game previously loaded on it) said the default Key Writing when booting up. I can scroll through the list of games on the LCD and pick one to flash, upon hitting the enter button to flash it just stays locked on the game I chose to flash, and does not say Flashing Game **** like i've always seen in the past. The green progress LED on the Multi turns solid green and stays green. When hitting the game browse up and down during this it just stays frozen on the game I chose to flash. I do get a solid white screen during all of this. Haven't tried shorting EXC1 and EXC5 yet, since I believe you'd still see the flashing progress even if the board had remaining battery power, but I could be wrong about that so please correct me if so.

Starting to wonder if the MultiKit did somehow have the old firmware and the fact I've already soldered the CN9 wires and used the new encryption sprinkling rollup is causing the issue. I appreciate any help.
 
Unplug key wires and try loading a decrypted gamer like mvc unlocked. See if it works.
 
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