let me know if you need more photos. I just tried again using my 32gb sd and I’m getting ram error on most of the decrypted ROMs after flashing. So at least we can rule out a/b board connectivity.
- Thread starter Mitsurugi-w
- Start date
Pics from the top please
This might sound stupid and far off but: Did you check your +5V? I get errors like that if my power supply is set lower than 4.8V. Might be worth checking.
I cleaned the sockets really good with a fiberglass brush and alcohol and it still requires an initial mash together to work but for now it seems to be working without applying pressure. Not sure what I can do to ensure it doesn’t come loose again.
I have clamps for the a+b board but not a clamp for the dark soft kit. Am I
missing something? The smaller dark soft board is the one that I have to clamp down to the b board in order for it to work. ill try some de-oxidizer when I remove the kit again.
missing something? The smaller dark soft board is the one that I have to clamp down to the b board in order for it to work. ill try some de-oxidizer when I remove the kit again.
Weird. The small pcb is usually very tight once it's plugged in. I've never seen one be loose since we released it. Does the small pcb have broken pins? Are you sure they are all pushed in all the way?
By small pcb do you mean the program rom pcb or the interconnect?
Oh I misunderstood. I thought you had problems connecting the game board to the main board not the main kit board to the B board. There is no clamp there, no. But if you have clean sockets and press it in thoroughly it should hold with no problem.
If the B Board worked before it is not all that likely the sockets have oxide on the connectors. And the Kit is new so hardly possible there, either.
A
Apocalypse
I've got a problem too...
I'm using a 93646B-3, I've replaced the PAL3 by a G, there was already a factory mod with a wire between pin 9 and C13 on CN3.
They I wired the 4 wires needed for key writing.
My B board does have the pull-down resistor installed too (between A32 and C32 on CN2).
The SD card I'm using is exactly the one in the procedure (Samsung SD HC 4GB class 4).
I can select a game with the LCD screen but then it got stuck on "Flash writing:" with the asterisks (loading status) going on but when it reaches the right nothing happens...
I find the information given most confusing, the pdf guide being for the older firmware, I'm getting lost with SWD5, J17, etc.
[EDIT]
Before I get noob advices:
- game (SFA2) was tested before installing the kit and was fully working (graphics, sound and controls). Actually I played it a bit.
- I've reverted the mods (jumpers and PAL) and game still works fine so B-board is still OK
- SD card has been formatted in FAT32
- also tried two other cards with the same result
- no broken or bent pin on the kit or even on the A-board
- obviously checked jumpers continuity before installing the kit
I'm using a 93646B-3, I've replaced the PAL3 by a G, there was already a factory mod with a wire between pin 9 and C13 on CN3.
They I wired the 4 wires needed for key writing.
My B board does have the pull-down resistor installed too (between A32 and C32 on CN2).
The SD card I'm using is exactly the one in the procedure (Samsung SD HC 4GB class 4).
I can select a game with the LCD screen but then it got stuck on "Flash writing:" with the asterisks (loading status) going on but when it reaches the right nothing happens...
I find the information given most confusing, the pdf guide being for the older firmware, I'm getting lost with SWD5, J17, etc.
[EDIT]
Before I get noob advices:
- game (SFA2) was tested before installing the kit and was fully working (graphics, sound and controls). Actually I played it a bit.
- I've reverted the mods (jumpers and PAL) and game still works fine so B-board is still OK
- SD card has been formatted in FAT32
- also tried two other cards with the same result
- no broken or bent pin on the kit or even on the A-board
- obviously checked jumpers continuity before installing the kit
Last edited by a moderator:
hey mate. I cant be of help with a key writing setup, however i used an early rev board for my kit (cant remember if it was rev 3 or 4) and can help with some info on the jump wire and swd5
I switched to a g pal, and set up the jumpers as required to suit (soldering, cuting traces if needed, testing for continuity with multimeter etc)
I then setup a wire on the bottom of the board as you have mentioned yours had already... My games booted but all still had scrambled audio. I had to end up removing that wire completely, lifting up pin 9 from the g pal so it didnt go into the socket, soldering a wire to that pin 9 and connecting it to the multi kits j17. Audio was perfectly fine after that...
Swd5 is for auto reset after the game programs. For me one end solders to SWD5 on multi kit. The other end solders to B28 on CN1 on B board, though there have been other cleaner ways to do it since:
Important Info About the CPS2 Multikit
However if you go to the new firmware and key writing method it appears swd5 is no longer required to be used as per here...
New CPS2 Multigame Firmware with Key Writing!!!!!!
I switched to a g pal, and set up the jumpers as required to suit (soldering, cuting traces if needed, testing for continuity with multimeter etc)
I then setup a wire on the bottom of the board as you have mentioned yours had already... My games booted but all still had scrambled audio. I had to end up removing that wire completely, lifting up pin 9 from the g pal so it didnt go into the socket, soldering a wire to that pin 9 and connecting it to the multi kits j17. Audio was perfectly fine after that...
Swd5 is for auto reset after the game programs. For me one end solders to SWD5 on multi kit. The other end solders to B28 on CN1 on B board, though there have been other cleaner ways to do it since:
Important Info About the CPS2 Multikit
However if you go to the new firmware and key writing method it appears swd5 is no longer required to be used as per here...
New CPS2 Multigame Firmware with Key Writing!!!!!!
A
Apocalypse
Thanks for your help but to me SWD5 isn't used anymore if using the key writing functionality.
Also tried to lift pin 9 of PAL3 and solder the wire directly on the leg => made no difference.
That behavior doesn't have anything to do with the jumpers, pal, etc. Usually that problem is caused by the SD card, the way it's set up, or a problem with the files. Are you using a PC or a MAC?
A
Apocalypse
PC obviously, I mean I followed all the steps carefully, I put all the chances on my side (PC formatted card, used the recommended memory card, actually have tried 3 of them) and still it doesn't work...
[EDIT]
I'm using the base rollpack and have tried every single game, only Vampire Savior Hack works but I have to power cycle the board manually for it to boot once the progress bar reaches the end.
[EDIT 2]
That's definitely a problem with my kit. It's new (received it 2 days ago) and it should have the latest firmware (I've read they always come with the latest firmware) but for some reason it doesn't so it only plays nokey games and can't write keys...
What can I do now? The rollpack with nokey isn't available anywhere, my kit is hardwired to the B-board (no CN9 connector) and I've no way to update the firmware...
Last edited by a moderator:
I would be surprised if you got an old firmware, not sure how it could be even possible. In any case, the firmware can be updated just copying one file into the microSD. See here:
New CPS2 Multigame Firmware with Key Writing!!!!!!
Make sure that you copy the files to the microSD in one copy+paste move on a freshly formatted microSD.
New CPS2 Multigame Firmware with Key Writing!!!!!!
Make sure that you copy the files to the microSD in one copy+paste move on a freshly formatted microSD.
A
Apocalypse
Maybe it has the latest firmware but for some reason it doesn't work.
Should I remove the 4 wires before trying to upgrade the firmware? Do I need to copy the file on a freshly (empty) formatted card?
