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I dont have tubes but you did give me the idea of stabbing the eproms into the foam that came with the multi kit.
if that foam is not anti-static that is not a great idea. A common indicator of anti-static foam is the colour pink.
These are the two foam pieces that came with the CPS2 multi, one is pink the other white and that was also stabbed into the pins as well. I did notice that the bubble wrap that was wrapped around the multi that came from saveyourgames was not pink it was the regular clear type. Not sure if there are clear antic static or white anti static foams out there? But it did freak me out a bit when unwrapping the kit.
 
I recently purchased my CPS2 multikit from Paradise and I am having two odd issues. The first issue is I have to power cycle my board twice to get a game to boot after it flashes. I have flashed about 6 or 7 different games, but each time it is the same. On the first power cycle I just get a black screen. On the second power cycle the game boots up normally. I have tried waiting longer on the first power cycle, but that doesn't change the behavior. (I am using Avalaunch decrypted roms)

The second issue is I decided to install a reset wire, but it does not seem to recognize it. I can not get the kit to auto reset. I check the soldering, and I am running a wire from SWD5 to the B21 pin, but nothing is happening. I am wondering if these two issues may be connected. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
I just saw that I was looking at the V2 instructions. That was stupid of me. Once I solder to SWD7 do I still run that pin B28 or B21. The instructions say B28, but I thought I saw some posts saying that was a typo.

Thanks.
 
There are two board types, one with a header on the board the other needs a connection wire elsewhere. I am unsure of that as I have the header on my board.
 
Another new CPS2 multi user here with a problem!

Was a working phoenixed SFZ board (Rev 7), all jumpers set according to instructions and triple checked, 4 wire mod completed as per instructions and Pal G chip fitted (came with the kit).

When writing flash screen goes black, upon writing of flash/key screen powers up just white.

Interestingly when reading the Pal G chip (GAL16V8D) in my TL866 it is effectively blank (all addresses are zeros), when compared with a BGSB3G dump from http://www.jammarcade.net/tag/pal-dump/ it seems that certainly shouldn't be the case?

Edit:Encrypted roll up packs being used from smokemonsters thread
 
Certainly an empty PAL would be a bad PAL but AFAIK it will only give you bad graphics, game should still be kind of visible. A picture of your setup would be good.
 
Here we go, also tried 2 different SD cards but it seems to flash ok and come up with now playing whatever (only difference between the 2 cards was flashing speed).
 

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A problem with black/white screen in general indicates that no code is being executed, so we have a problem with the program roms. Checking your pictures. I can see that the intersection PCB that joins program roms PCB with the main PCB of the multi looks like not completely inserted in one of the sides. See picture attached. Make sure it's properly inserted, shortcut EXC5 (with the power off, of course) and let us know how it goes.
 

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That picture make it looks bad but the connector is fully bottomed out, however there is progress.

The green wire for "Setup" was actually open circuit even though both the soldering and crimp were good, I should of double checked these after fitting to avoid issues. So I replaced the setup wire and instead of just a white screen after writing I was left with a black screen! I decided to see what would happen if I booted with the dodgy pal chip removed and now I have video, it's a garbled mess and there is no sound but it's progress.

Edit:Programmed the gal chip with the jed file I got from jamma arcade and now working a treat!
 
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nice!

Strange your PAL chip was blank, where did you get it from?
 
Got it from Aldo at saveyourgames, unsure if he is supplied them pre-programmed or does them himself either way it was just a simple oversight and now easily fixed.
 
Finally got around to looking at all this again. Checked my PALs with my TL866 as well (thanks @tiff_lee) and found that
  1. I don't know how JED files/these chips work, so I couldn't tell by reading the JEDs and comparing which of the PALs from jammaarcade matched the dump of the one came with my CPS2 B board
  2. The PAL I purchased with my multi from Paradise Arcade was blank as well!
Anyways, I tried my original PAL again and the graphics were just weird. Tried burning the G PAL onto my blank chip from PA and I received same garbled but working results. This, but mostly all the documentation on phoenixing/romswapping, leads me to believe I did in fact have a G PAL with my CPS2 board. I must have tried the original PAL again while my boards weren't inserted fully (very early on I didn't have the connector board in all the way, way before my post).

Graphics glitches were wrongly colored vertical lines. I could get different lines to display properly if I pressed on different parts of the board. Removed and reinstalled big board and now it's working great!

Thanks @tiff_lee and @Mitsurugi-w for your help.
 
Okay, I have soldered a wire from SWD7 to A29 which the V3 instructions say handles the reset function, but my board will not auto reset. I soldered and then re-soldered it to make sure I had a good connection, but no matter what I do the kit will end the flash with garbled graphics on screen and sit there until I power cycle it. Does anyone have any ideas? I have a 93646B-3 board and I am using these instructions:

SWD5 is not being used anymore. Now you have to use for both reset and SETUP2 (it's thesame signal) the pin in SWD7.
IMPORTANT!!! Follow the instructions to connect DATA, CLOCK, SETUP1 and SETUP2 asstated below and corresponding to your version of B Board only:

Pinout for board revisions 93646B-3 and 93646B-4
CN2 interface pins:
DATAArduino #2→ CN2 A32SETUP1Arduino #3→ CN2 A30CLOCKArduino #11→ CN2 A31
SETUP2Arduino #12→ CN2 A29
 
Okay, I have soldered a wire from SWD7 to A29 which the V3 instructions say handles the reset function, but my board will not auto reset. I soldered and then re-soldered it to make sure I had a good connection, but no matter what I do the kit will end the flash with garbled graphics on screen and sit there until I power cycle it. Does anyone have any ideas? I have a 93646B-3 board and I am using these instructions:

SWD5 is not being used anymore. Now you have to use for both reset and SETUP2 (it's thesame signal) the pin in SWD7.
IMPORTANT!!! Follow the instructions to connect DATA, CLOCK, SETUP1 and SETUP2 asstated below and corresponding to your version of B Board only:
Pinout for board revisions 93646B-3 and 93646B-4
CN2 interface pins:
DATAArduino #2→ CN2 A32SETUP1Arduino #3→ CN2 A30CLOCKArduino #11→ CN2 A31
SETUP2Arduino #12→ CN2 A29
Can you take a pic of your setup where we can see where wires are soldered?
 
Here are a few pictures of my setup. Any help is appreciated.
 

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I have been trying that with no luck. I was inserting the pin on the bottom set, 4th pin from the right. Am I correct that is the A29 pin?
 
Finally got around to looking at all this again. Checked my PALs with my TL866 as well (thanks @tiff_lee) and found that
  1. I don't know how JED files/these chips work, so I couldn't tell by reading the JEDs and comparing which of the PALs from jammaarcade matched the dump of the one came with my CPS2 B board
  2. The PAL I purchased with my multi from Paradise Arcade was blank as well!
Anyways, I tried my original PAL again and the graphics were just weird. Tried burning the G PAL onto my blank chip from PA and I received same garbled but working results. This, but mostly all the documentation on phoenixing/romswapping, leads me to believe I did in fact have a G PAL with my CPS2 board. I must have tried the original PAL again while my boards weren't inserted fully (very early on I didn't have the connector board in all the way, way before my post).

Graphics glitches were wrongly colored vertical lines. I could get different lines to display properly if I pressed on different parts of the board. Removed and reinstalled big board and now it's working great!

Thanks @tiff_lee and @Mitsurugi-w for your help.
I found when reading the gal chip with the TL866 all the address spaces were just zeros, for reference for others the Pal G jed I downloaded came from here

http://www.jammarcade.net/files/pals/CPS2-BGSB3G.jed

when burning with the TL866 make sure you uncheck "lock bit" prior to programming otherwise when you read back the chip contents all bits are set to 1 (copy protection of sorts?) so you can't actually verify the contents.

Good to hear you got it working though! , if anything this gave me the opportunity to get some more experience with my TL866
 
That doesn't look right. Here's a photo of mine. It is working and using the encrypted rom set.

CPS2.jpg
 
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