Troubleshooting Tips

[DarthMig]

Well I was finally able to get some time to fix the broken pin on my cps2 multi. Thanks to @Mitsurugi-w for sending me the replacement pins. Got it all setup and powered on and was able to go through the list of games. It loaded the game and wrote the key but just had a black screen. I think its an issue with the garbage supergun that i have, its a retroelektric with a cga,ega,vga coverter. Its was working before, but so unfortunately its no anymore. So i will play around with it this weekend to see if i can get working. Until @RGB releases his next batch of the HAS and hopefully i would be able to pick one up or the Sentinal is released.

Can somebody just verify for me that i soldered the key writing wires in the correct place, please.

 

[PascalP]

wires are in the wrong order, you reversed them

DATAArduino # 2→ CN9 #2
SETUP1Arduino # 3→ CN9 #3
CLOCKArduino # 11→ CN9 #4
SETUP2Arduino # 12→ CN9 #5

So for you it should be
1 - empty
2 - brown
3 - gray
4 - black
5 - white
6 - empty

 

[DarthMig]

wires are in the wrong order, you reversed them

DATAArduino # 2→ CN9 #2
SETUP1Arduino # 3→ CN9 #3
CLOCKArduino # 11→ CN9 #4
SETUP2Arduino # 12→ CN9 #5

So for you it should be
1 - empty
2 - brown
3 - gray
4 - black
5 - white
6 - empty

Sorry @PascalP but i dont see were i reversed them.
Isn't it suppose to be:
Brown -> Data
Grey -> Setup1
Black -> Clock
White -> Setup2

 

[PascalP]

Yes but you have the pinout in the connector reversed

 

[Darksoft]

Yes but you have the pinout in the connector reversed

^THAT^ cn9 has pin 1 on the other side.

 

[DarthMig]

@PascalP @Darksoft So what you are saying is that i just have to unplug the connector and flip it around?

 

[PascalP]

Basically yes, if it fits, don’t know which connector you used.
Otherwise remove all cables from the connector and reinsert in reverse order

 

[DarthMig]

Basically yes, if it fits, don’t know which connector you used.
Otherwise remove all cables from the connector and reinsert in reverse order

Got it, thanks you for the assistance. Its a connector that came with my kit i ordered from saveyourgames.

 

[PascalP]

So you might have to re-pin it then, quicker than resolsering everything

 

[Darksoft]

Its a connector that came with my kit i ordered from saveyourgames.

coonnector is OK but you soldered the cables to the kit in reversed order.

 

[DarthMig]

@Darksoft Will do and will let you know what happens. Thanks

 

[TechnicalMonkey]

I got my CPS2 Multi paired up with a revision 4 B board, and I have a G-PAL swapped out. It seems to load the games well, but I'm having audio issues. It's only playing certain output channels. It is in stereo because I can hear the separation, and I can also hear the steering and 3D effects to the sound. I'm just not getting the entire polyphony. I know it's not the A board as I swapped boards to see if it was a bad. and I was able to get my known good CPS2 Multi working without issues.

Is there something besides swapping the PAL chip that I could have tried?

Thanks

 

[PascalP]

Jumpers are set correct?

 

[TechnicalMonkey]

The Jumpers are correct. I think it might have been the oversight of not seeing this as a bit more work than was put in. I still need to jump pin 9 of the G-PAL to pin C5 pin 13.

@Mitsurugi-w does that shortcut pin (J17) on the Multi work for this case? Was using a G-PAL a waste in this case (it originally had an F-PAL?) I ask because in your video you demonstrate the F-PAL shortcut, but not the G-PAL shortcut. I'm not hearing garbage audio, but audio with a reduced amount of voices (some instruments are not playing at all.) Is this because you only demonstrated the use of the shortcut pin opened instead of connected to the original spot, then connected to J17 and only talked about using the G-PAL (I hope it was supposed to be stolen voices and not garbage audio.)

Wish Me Luck

 

[xodaraP]

If you had an F PAL without the bodge wire you'd have a lot more than missing voices

G PAL on older revision boards still needs the bodge wire. Pull the pin out of the socket by itself and solder it, I want to say yes you can use J17 but I haven't tried it that way

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

Yeah you can use an F or G pal with that revision B-board but the pin you jump tot he kit MUST be removed from the socket.

 

[DarthMig]

@Darksoft @Mitsurugi-w I am still getting a black screen when using my cps2 multi. I also tried my kit on a asia A+B board that i have and i get the exact same issue, just black screen no colors at all (just to test if it was a board issue. I checked and redid jumpers on boths boards. Jumpers were fine.

I checked that all pins were inserted properly.

I also re did my key writing wires because i had put them backwards before. Would the wires put incorrectly cause permanent damage to the board?

On the lcd i see the list of games that are on the sd card, can select and see the game being write i am assuming it is and it says the key was writing successfully but then black screen.

The b-board that i am using is a MvC JP green board that was Phoenixed and working. Just to make sure that it is not my supergun i test another b-board that is original with batt and i got video and audio.

I have attached pics. What else could it be or check to resolve the issue?

 

[Darksoft]

I also re did my key writing wires because i had put them backwards before. Would the wires put incorrectly cause permanent damage to the board?

I hope not.

In any case, I see two things that I don't like

1) looks like the long pins in the main PCB are not completely inserted in some areas, specifically in the are close to where the contrast knob is. Try pushing it deeper while looking from the side carefully.
2) It also looks like the middle PCB that joins the 2 PCBs is not properly sitting on it's left side (the one closer to the main PCB of the multi)

Please check those and get back to us.

 

[DarthMig]

I also re did my key writing wires because i had put them backwards before. Would the wires put incorrectly cause permanent damage to the board?

I hope not.

In any case, I see two things that I don't like

1) looks like the long pins in the main PCB are not completely inserted in some areas, specifically in the are close to where the contrast knob is. Try pushing it deeper while looking from the side carefully.
2) It also looks like the middle PCB that joins the 2 PCBs is not properly sitting on it's left side (the one closer to the main PCB of the multi)

Please check those and get back to us.

So i did what you said and now i am getting a little more then just black. Getting a solid green screen on most games and on Dungeons and Dragons i got a error message on the screen saying ram error other i get some garbled stuff then solid color. Ive attached pics.

 

[Frank_fjs]

Make sure your A and B boards are firmly docked together.