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I don't have access to a programmer.

You don't have a spare you can send me?
 
Curious. Which PAL was on the pcb before you removed it to put the new one on?
 
It had the first revision PAL. The one with no letter. Street Fighter B board.
 
In case anyone is curious I’ve fixed my issue. The problem was not all of the pins over socket 6 on the Main board were soldered. Only the end two pins of the row were soldered. Easy fix I just didn’t notice until I had to time to check it out. Works good now with no applied pressure.
 
In case anyone is curious I’ve fixed my issue. The problem was not all of the pins over socket 6 on the Main board were soldered. Only the end two pins of the row were soldered. Easy fix I just didn’t notice until I had to time to check it out. Works good now with no applied pressure.
On the multi pcb?
 
In case anyone is curious I’ve fixed my issue. The problem was not all of the pins over socket 6 on the Main board were soldered. Only the end two pins of the row were soldered. Easy fix I just didn’t notice until I had to time to check it out. Works good now with no applied pressure.
On the multi pcb?
Yes the smaller one labeled main board.
 
Damn. Second time I've seen that happen. Nice catch btw. Not an easy thing to notice if you aren't looking. Glad you could solder it up yourself. We will need to have another talk with the guys that hand solder parts at the factory again.
 
Syntax where in Aus are you? I have a programmer but in WA
 
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@tiff_lee thanks for the offering. Certainly from Australia will be quicker. If that doesnt work out I'll send him one from Europe.
 
tiff ended up being on the other side of Aus and super busy.
I posted on an Aussie arcade FB page and woke up to a message from a guy 3 villages away offering to give me a GAL for free.

Blew me away as I live in the bush.
So yeah I just finished doing a dodgy Maccas carpark deal, swapped him all the eproms and daughter board i didnt need and got a fresh new GAL.

Will test it soon
 
so fitting the new GAL now plays games but the sound is glitchy and sped up.
I wired GAL pin 9 to J17.
I did not pull GAL pin 9 from the socket.

Went and lifted pin 9 and wired it to j17 now everything works sweet.

The latest instructions only say to lift 7 on an FPAL. The wording for GPAL is confusing.

I'll take a picture for you to add so people fitting a GPAL to an older revision board have something to go off.
 
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Here's some pics of my install.
https://imgur.com/a/GEuHiTG

I decided to install the LCD in the case for a true console feel, and I never really liked the idea of a bare ribbon cable.
The fact that the ribbon cable is plugged in from the top makes it kind of hard to have a neat install, so I removed the header and replaced it with 2 rows of fresh pins on the underside. In order for this to work you have to flip the cable then flip every pair of wires.

I'm really happy with how the whole system has turned out, Thanks guys :)


Things to note:

I had to cut the locator off one of the plastic support legs of the Darksoft PCB else it would hit and crush a capacitor when I installed it.

Pressing the connecting PCB flush on both boards causes the main board to bent, so I left around 2mm of pins showing from the rom board to keep the main one straight.

The LCD ribbon cable connector sat too high from the main PCB and stopped me from shutting the case, it would just rock on the connector.
So I had to superglue the connector together then cut the top support bit off.
Was only a few mm that I needed. Maybe your using a new cable supplier?
 
Nice install, but wouldn’t it fit if you replaced the connector with a 90^ degrees type?
 
Thanks
Probably, but I didn't have one on hand. Had some pins leftover from an Rpi project so I figured why not.
 
The LCD ribbon cable connector sat too high from the main PCB and stopped me from shutting the case, it would just rock on the connector.
So I had to superglue the connector together then cut the top support bit off.
Was only a few mm that I needed. Maybe your using a new cable supplier?
Same here. But if you press hard enough you can shut the case :evil:
 
The LCD ribbon cable connector sat too high from the main PCB and stopped me from shutting the case, it would just rock on the connector.
So I had to superglue the connector together then cut the top support bit off.
Was only a few mm that I needed. Maybe your using a new cable supplier?
Same here. But if you press hard enough you can shut the case :evil:
I wouldn't recommend forcing it closed. Maybe that could be related to the issue you had?
 
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