skate323k137
Enlightened
My blast is struggling to keep up on voltage, so I decided it was finally time to try recapping it. I have done a lot of single cap replacements and rom swaps etc but never a full recap so this should be fun.
Please correct me if I am wrong on any of the types/tolerances, and I do need help verifying my identifications of a few caps as noted below.
Audio Amp PCB Cap List (Complete list)
Electrolytic Aluminum caps (KME series, +/- 20%. KMG series on digikey is recommended replacement by manufacturer.):
C1,C2 - 35v 4700uf
C3,C4 - 50v 100uf
C13,C14,C15,C17 - 50v 10uf
C16,C18,C19,C20 - 50v 2.2uf
C21,C22 - 50v 1uf
C23,C25 - 50v 33uf
Disc cap (ceramic?):
C9,C10 - 220pf +/- 5% (I think. Marked as 221J. Would like confirmation.)
Brown (polyester film cap?) These are all the same:
c24,c26,c11,c12,c8,c7,c5,c6 - 0.1 uf (cap marking is 104 with 3 dots around the 4. There is one dot above the 4 and two dots below it. I would like confirmation on these)
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PSU PCB Partial Cap list (missing disc caps)
Electrolytic Aluminium caps (KME series, +/- 20%. KMG series on digikey is recommended replacement by manufacturer.):
C25 - 25v 100uf
C31,C39,C40 - 10v 6800uf
C24 - 16v 2200uf (I think this is c24... marking was partially blocked by the white stuff used to secure some caps)
C36,C44 - 50v 0.47uf
C16,C11 - 50v 10uf
C12 - 50v 1uf
C14 - 35v 47uf
C20 - 35v 22uf
C5 - 200v 820uf (The huge one. This one is marked (M) not KME, please let me know if this is of any significance.)
Nichicon Radial film caps(?) These are a greenish color, marked 104K 1HL. My best guess is 0.1uf 10% for all of these:
C33,C28,C4,C48,C18,C8,C9,C47
Nichicon Radial film caps(?) These are a greenish color, marked 223K 50H. My best guess is .022uf 10% for these two:
(forgot locations, will update)
Questions / To Do before I start:
Should I even bother replacing the brown / green film caps if my PSU was working but just weak? Or just start with the electrolytic caps and see where that gets me?
Any advice in particular for the big ass 200v 820uf cap on the PSU? Should I short it with a resistor before I take it out?
Please correct me if I am wrong on any of the types/tolerances, and I do need help verifying my identifications of a few caps as noted below.
Audio Amp PCB Cap List (Complete list)
Electrolytic Aluminum caps (KME series, +/- 20%. KMG series on digikey is recommended replacement by manufacturer.):
C1,C2 - 35v 4700uf
C3,C4 - 50v 100uf
C13,C14,C15,C17 - 50v 10uf
C16,C18,C19,C20 - 50v 2.2uf
C21,C22 - 50v 1uf
C23,C25 - 50v 33uf
Disc cap (ceramic?):
C9,C10 - 220pf +/- 5% (I think. Marked as 221J. Would like confirmation.)
Brown (polyester film cap?) These are all the same:
c24,c26,c11,c12,c8,c7,c5,c6 - 0.1 uf (cap marking is 104 with 3 dots around the 4. There is one dot above the 4 and two dots below it. I would like confirmation on these)
----
PSU PCB Partial Cap list (missing disc caps)
Electrolytic Aluminium caps (KME series, +/- 20%. KMG series on digikey is recommended replacement by manufacturer.):
C25 - 25v 100uf
C31,C39,C40 - 10v 6800uf
C24 - 16v 2200uf (I think this is c24... marking was partially blocked by the white stuff used to secure some caps)
C36,C44 - 50v 0.47uf
C16,C11 - 50v 10uf
C12 - 50v 1uf
C14 - 35v 47uf
C20 - 35v 22uf
C5 - 200v 820uf (The huge one. This one is marked (M) not KME, please let me know if this is of any significance.)
Nichicon Radial film caps(?) These are a greenish color, marked 104K 1HL. My best guess is 0.1uf 10% for all of these:
C33,C28,C4,C48,C18,C8,C9,C47
Nichicon Radial film caps(?) These are a greenish color, marked 223K 50H. My best guess is .022uf 10% for these two:
(forgot locations, will update)
Questions / To Do before I start:
Should I even bother replacing the brown / green film caps if my PSU was working but just weak? Or just start with the electrolytic caps and see where that gets me?
Any advice in particular for the big ass 200v 820uf cap on the PSU? Should I short it with a resistor before I take it out?
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