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^^^Yup. Damn, this sort of sucks, b/c that means since he made changes to the case... some people will have one's too big now, which might be OK, but who knows.
 
Scrub question here...Can someone point me towards a guide to wire the case pushbuttons to the A-board?

Looking at the OP photos I think I need to wire one terminal of each pushbutton to a corresponding button terminal on the A-board. Then I need to wire and daisy chain the remaining terminal on each pushbutton to a ground terminal on the A-board test button.

Should I purchase a daisy chain harness for ground, or wire each pushbutton separately to ground, or else splice my own daisy chain harness?

Does it matter if I use heat shrink or leave my soldered wire connections exposed inside the case?

Are quick connects to the pushbutton terminals preferable to soldering the wires directly to the pushbutton terminals? Does it matter if I use insulated quick connects?

Am I completely off in some of my assumptions here?
 
I doubt there’s a guide. But none of what you’re waffling over is wrong really. Just preferences.

Daisy chain grounds, DIY or bought, are fine. Wiring direct grounds is also fine. It’s easy enough I’d say just DIY.

Heat shrink is optional, just looks nicer. If you don’t heat shrink then I’d recommend using quick connectors or only exposing the amount of wire you intend to solder. The only risk is having it flop around and touch other metal, but there’s not much near the buttons that’s a risk. The insulation on the quick connect is going to also just look better and prevent those potential shorts.

On the pcb you should confirm the buttons ground and active pins but I think it’s the right pin farthest from the jamma edge. So next to the “N” in “DOWN”. Ground is on the other side. Grab a multimeter and you’ll find continuity to ground on one of those. If you can’t figure it out I’ll check a lose B board I have tomorrow.

All that said... You’re gonna do this once right? Take your time and do a clean install imo. Heat shrink or insulated quick connects. Clean solders on the pcb. A little wire management. Be proud of your mod!
 
Just put some finishing touches on my board and case. I finally wired the volume/service buttons and also added the Arthrimus key writing quick solder board.
 

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I was over at Jasen's ordering some Brook Retro Boards, and saw his CPS2 case.... I was a couple of drinks in, and i'll be damned if I didn't go ahead and purchase it!

Can't wait for it to arrive! I love the clean lines.
 
do you have picture about black/black version please? logo capcom is it in color. in stock?
 
We make them to order. The case graphics, regardless of the color, are all the same full color. Thanks for the question!
 
nice so if i order one waiting time could be short. how many time after payment for delivery please? Same thing about acrylic cps3 case?
 
Made to order items are shipped within 10 business days. Not sure I'll restock the cps3 acrylic since we offer the nice metal case for it now.
 
Unfortunately, I don't have anybody the all black done. Sorry mate.
 
@JasenHicks

Finally put my kit together, a few points, thoughts, and questions:

  • I'm only counting (9) 6-32 screws, confirmed by your website, but (10) holes in the casetop. Should there be one more?
  • Also metric screws would have been a lot cooler esp. if you're selling overseas;
  • Finding a right-angle HDMI cable that would fit a Digital AV was a bit of a pain - not sure what you do with this info but heads-up it's a snug fit in the case;
  • Option for pro-cable connector hole options to consolize. (I'm planning to drill some holes in the back for controller and power. Will the powder coat be OK or will it start flaking off?)
  • A little heads-up on how to connect the buttons would be welcome, saves each purchase needing a google and search;
  • Top-mount LED screen. The box sits on the floor, seeing the screen is an effort;
  • Option for side standing - I have some sticky feet but some legit screw-ons would be nice. Fan in the back would work better for this too.

Nice work, keep it up.
 
Last edited:
1. There is a good chance I miscounted the screws. But you can always forgo 1, really 10 is a lot of overkill.
2. Metric is more difficult to get in the US, plus everything else I sell uses SAE except the panzer top plexi.
3. Agree.
4. Be careful. Drilling could result in flaking if you aren't careful, the bit wanders, and you dont use masking first.
5. Noted.

Thanks for the support over the years everyone. I am actually closing my shop this weekend and all things are either sold out or on their way to being sold out. Nothing else is being made.
 
1. There is a good chance I miscounted the screws. But you can always forgo 1, really 10 is a lot of overkill.
2. Metric is more difficult to get in the US, plus everything else I sell uses SAE except the panzer top plexi.
3. Agree.
4. Be careful. Drilling could result in flaking if you aren't careful, the bit wanders, and you dont use masking first.
5. Noted.

Thanks for the support over the years everyone. I am actually closing my shop this weekend and all things are either sold out or on their way to being sold out. Nothing else is being made.
Jasen,

Sorry to see the shop close! Best of luck, I know the Navy is keeping you busy as well as your school.

Maybe one day you'll open back up!
 
1. There is a good chance I miscounted the screws. But you can always forgo 1, really 10 is a lot of overkill.
2. Metric is more difficult to get in the US, plus everything else I sell uses SAE except the panzer top plexi.
3. Agree.
4. Be careful. Drilling could result in flaking if you aren't careful, the bit wanders, and you dont use masking first.
5. Noted.

Thanks for the support over the years everyone. I am actually closing my shop this weekend and all things are either sold out or on their way to being sold out. Nothing else is being made.
Thanks for all the amazing product @JasenHicks - hope to see you back at it one day!

Matt
 
1. There is a good chance I miscounted the screws. But you can always forgo 1, really 10 is a lot of overkill.
2. Metric is more difficult to get in the US, plus everything else I sell uses SAE except the panzer top plexi.
3. Agree.
4. Be careful. Drilling could result in flaking if you aren't careful, the bit wanders, and you dont use masking first.
5. Noted.

Thanks for the support over the years everyone. I am actually closing my shop this weekend and all things are either sold out or on their way to being sold out. Nothing else is being made.
Aw no sad song. Despite my comments (constructive criticism, not complaints!), your case was the best custom out there. Godspeed.
 
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