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SNK-NEO-GEO

Enlightened
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Hello.. So I hit the monitor on the back where the board seats while moving it.. The light bulb looking thing came a bit loose from the back of the board and I start hearing a sound like scaping gas.. I walked away.. Today I insert the bulb thing back into the board, and plunged it in, then sparking electricity started coming out from the area where the light bulb got loose to the board.. I guess that I did not push it in all the way or it needs to be sealed somehow.. My questions, how hard is it to repair? Is the chacy still good? Is the monitor gone? Is it all junk now? This is a NOL monitor with less than an hour of use.
 

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Oh damn, the tube is done for; a sad day indeed ;( . But the chassis might still be good.
 
Ohhh noooo...Could you elaborate on why the tube is gone.. I am new to arcade monitor tech and how it works and I am afraid of electronics and electricity..
 
The tube is a vacuum. Sadly when you cracked it the seal was broken and the tube is now trash. There is no way to fix it anymore as the days of crt tube manufacture and repair are gone. You can try to find an old 25 inch tv and swap the tube. That's your only option now.
 
Save the chassis/neckboard/yoke/rings... Sometimes you can repurpose a normal TV tube(s) with these components and it will actually work.
Most of the time however the pins on the neckboard won't line up, or even if you can get it all together it has horrible/unusable geometry.

Not a simple/easy job by any means, maybe you just want a OSSC and a LCD. ;)
 
Yup you've "necked" the tube which basically means you've cracked the glass and broke the vacuum.

The tube is one giant piece of glass from the screen you look at to the "lightbulb looking thing" that the neck board plugs into at the back. the "neck" of the tube is the thin portion at the back and is EXTREMELY fragile.

I've necked a tube before, Thankfully mine was on a badly burned 19", but it still sucks... stay in this hobby long enough and you're bound to do it at least once.

chuck the glass and save everything else (including the yoke, yoke wedges, frame, degauss cable, and of course the chassis etc.), The WG D9200 are nice monitors, I've got a few myself. you'll need to find a new tube with the same style connector on the back of the neck. I think there are some cross reference tables on KLOV for which consumer TVs have which style tube connector. 27" tri-sync tubes can be tricky to source though.

As long as you keep the yoke you shouldn't need to make any other modifications to the chassis to make it work with a different tube. you WILL however need to do a full convergence on the new tube, after you put it all together, which is another job in itself.
 
I have an OSSC and plenty LCD.. I do not like LCDs for gaming:) many moons from know I will jump to OLED.. I am going to place the D9200 on my local Craigslist for free, local pickup.. Hopefully someone can use it for parts:)
 
Save the parts, it might come in useful for repairing the next CRT that gives you grief.

I'll gladly take the chassis/yoke off your hands if you don't want it :D
 
Yea don't give it away unless you know/like the person.
That chassis and neckboard are worth something to the guy stockpiling CRTs to last into the next decade.

As Twisted said, stay in this hobby long enough and it will happen.
My tail is far more tragic... I necked a Nanao 2930 (Blast City) with only minor credit burn on it. :(
 
That chassis and neckboard are worth something to the guy stockpiling CRTs to last into the next decade.
My tail is far more tragic... I necked a Nanao 2930 (Blast City) with only minor credit burn on it. :(
Stockpiler here. :D 9200 chassis definitely worth something still.

Jassin, I feel ya....drove 8 hours roundtrip from Dallas to Houston for my AWSD. Got it upstairs, and was so excited to get some games on it, that while rotating it, I necked it, an never even got a game on the stupid thing. Took me a year to come up with a 2929 that's vga-xvga...so no more trisync....but it was a brand new monitor...so no burn either.

I have a buddy that does repair on WG6100 monitors for Atari vector games, and has necked two tubes that were customers over his years, and had to pull from his private stock of about 20 or so tubes to replace. It happens to everyone, but that hiss sound, is the sound of heartbreak and failure to be sure.
 
I think there are some cross reference tables on KLOV for which consumer TVs have which style tube connector. 27" tri-sync tubes can be tricky to source though
I have wondered this for a long time and have an extra D9200 chassis - has anyone had luck finding a tube or consumer TV match for the D9200? Any suppliers of just the tube or any model numbers of TVs that are confirmed to work with the D9200 chassis would be very helpful for some of us hanging on to D9200 chassis and hoping to use them again. FYI - I also necked a D9202 not that long ago and I felt terrible. I guess it is a learning experience and chalk it up to that - the tube had no burn and now I guess is just a big paperweight. Kind of sad they can not be reconditioned or used for something.
 
Zapped? PSH last time I salvaged a chassis off of a necked tube I remove the annode cup with my bare hands #YOLO

(no I am not kidding, and no you should not follow my example)
 
Guys, if the chassis's fuse was in place, then the bleeder circuit is active, and there should not be any electricity left in the tube itself.
If you are concerned, simply take about 3' of insulated wire...attach one end to an alligator clip, and then on the other end...strip a few inches of insulation, and wrap about 1.5' of the wire around the metal portion of a flat bladed screwdriver. (towards the base is best)

This acts as a de-static tool. Clip the alligator clip somewhere on the frame, and then stick the flat edge of the driver under the anode cup till you touch the metal (keep your friggin hands on the PLASTIC part of the driver, and keep your spare hand OFF the frame). leave it there for about 30 seconds, remove for 30 seconds, and then repeat the process again. Anode cup is now safe to pry up with the screwdriver, or remove with bare hands.

Yes...getting hit with 30,000 live volts from an arcing flyback is bad....and catching a hit from a tube that's not been properly discharged also sucks....but there's no reason to be terrified, just be cautious, and DO NOT EVER be distracted, or do two things at once, when working on an active, or recently active monitor. :D

"Louie the lightening bug says be safe around electricity!"
 
Guys, if the chassis's fuse was in place, then the bleeder circuit is active, and there should not be any electricity left in the tube itself.
This is true for most "modern" CRTs, (though not for a lot of the older 80s era stuff). hence why I didn't worry about removing the cup without any special tools.

Even still it's stupid simple to discharge with a screw driver and a piece of wire as baghera suggested.

the only monitors I've ever even seen with any charge left in them after powered off for a few minutes were old 15K 19" monitors in stuff like Ms PAC. a D9200 will discharge itself automatically.
 
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