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D9200 monitor issue - hope someone can help

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arcadeWC

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So I picked up a D9200 a while back and finally got around to installing it into my cabinet. When I immediately tried it in my Jamma cab - setup for 15 kHz; I wasn't able to get a picture to show up. I switched my Naomi to VGA resolution and I was able to get a screen and eventually a GREAT picture. So I had it run for about an hour and the picture as great; I stepped away for awhile and came back to find the screen "washed out" - with a "haze" on the screen and the image was "larger" and no longer fit the monitor screen. It was perfect when i left it and it wasn't touch in the process. It is almost like it is "stuck" in some resolution that can't be reset. I have tried disconnecting and other sources, but no luck. Any ideas? I mean it looked great and I was quite pleased after tweaking the setting and I couldn't be more disappointed to find this issue after it was working great. I have tried recall and changing settings, but to no avail. Is there a way to reset to factory settings other than the hidden menu and recall? That hasn't worked. Anyone know of any troubleshooting and possible issues?
It would be greatly appreciated. It was in great shape when it was purchased and it looked great (clean board) but now really confused. Thoughts please?
Thanks.
 
take a pic of the screen and link it here.
Initial conclusion would be that focus and/or screen pots have drifted a bit after the screen warmed up. But a pic of the screen when it's on will give a better indication of the problem.
 
Asure said:
Initial conclusion would be that focus and/or screen pots have drifted a bit after the screen warmed up
Click to expand...
This could explain the issue, as these aging caps/pots change temperature (warm up) the electrical output value can drift.

It could also be the HOT (horizontal output transistor) is starting to fail, the haze makes me think caps, but the image center and size change make me think potential HOT.
 
Changing caps is the first plan of action here. Even if this was a NOS monitor caps would be the culprit most likely. Electrolytics fail with age just as much as with continuous use.
 
Thanks for the responses! Here are some pictures of the image. The "haze" is difficult to tell from the photos and also tried to capture the enlarged image that will not display correctly - even with the adjustments to side width at the minimum, etc. Again the image was "perfect" for that short time being after setup and then suddenly changed and no signs of correction or adjustment seem possible. I have accessed the factory mode and adjusted all settings I know to be possible without any significant change. The image is larger than it should be (picture was centered and correct initially) and I also noticed the CGA/EGA signal doesn't seem to work correctly - the VGA signal works and I can get a CGA image using the VGA input, but when switching the input card cable to CGA/EGA I am unable to get a signal. The monitor itself was in great condition and very clean with supposedly little use by the seller, but as stated, perhaps caps that are old regardless of amount of use may go bad regardless of how clean it appears to be? Lastly, to confirm, is a recapping recommended as the first action and is there anything else that may need work based on the description? Does anyone recommend someone to do the recapping of a D9200 as it is beyond my skill set and I understand it involves "many" caps. I guess the good news is the tube is in good shape and burn free and had a great image until the issue. I suppose a recap was inevitable anyway for a unit of this age and this particular model - trying to find a positive in a very frustrating situation. Thanks again. PS - I heard the D9200 as a "bleeder" function that doesn't store the electrical current in the tube and safer when trying to remove the chassis. Anyone have any issues in removing the chassis for these and is it fairly simply in terms of discharging the monitor? I haven't done it before.
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Sorry to hear about your D9200.. The chassis from my necked D9200 would have been perfect for this.. It is challenging finding people willing to do the work, I would think that the first step would be to make a listing, local Craigslist for a cap service.
 
I'm sure I've made a thread on this before but there are several mail-in monitor repair options in the USA:
P&L Video: http://www.pnlvideo.com
Arcacde Cup: http://arcadecup.com
The Arcade Buffett: http://thearcadebuffett.com

There are lots of people who do repair work on the side, many of which will make house calls, but it depends on where you live. your best bet on finding those is to join a local arcade community forum, as the people who offer those services tends to change regularly.
 
" local arcade community" if there is one in my area, I have not found it.. I have been looking.. The closest community that I have found, SHMUPS forum and this place:)..
 
SNK-NEO-GEO said:
" local arcade community" if there is one in my area, I have not found it..
Click to expand...
A quick search reveals there's a sub forum for your area on KLOV: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=120

there also appears to be a facebook group with over 2000 members: https://www.facebook.com/groups/WVArcade/

if nothing else it will give you a few locals who might have services to offer or can point you in the right direction.

----
Coin-Op Warehouse is also less than a 2-hour drive from you, I'm sure they have a metric-fuck-ton of spare chassis and monitors. That's like the holy grail for cheap and plentiful arcade machines and parts, I'm jealous.
 
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twistedsymphony said:
SNK-NEO-GEO said:
" local arcade community" if there is one in my area, I have not found it..
Click to expand...
A quick search reveals there's a sub forum for your area on KLOV: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=120
there also appears to be a facebook group with over 2000 members: https://www.facebook.com/groups/WVArcade/

if nothing else it will give you a few locals who might have services to offer or can point you in the right direction.

----
Coin-Op Warehouse is also less than a 2-hour drive from you, I'm sure they have a metric-fuck-ton of spare chassis and monitors. That's like the holy grail for cheap and plentiful arcade machines and parts, I'm jealous.
Click to expand...
thanks for the links.. I can not seem to get to KLOV link..no permission or something.. The Facebook, I do not use Facebook or social media..

I think that I visited coinops once and the prices for cabs and PCB were high.. That was many years ago.
Thanks for all the links.. You have mad skills:)
 
coinopwarehouse is super cheap.. they post stuff up on their facebook several time a day and it's usually gone within MINUTES.

Their items are priced to move, I get the impression they're not interested in sitting on stock. Last time they posted a net-city for $450... last blast I saw them post was $275. these were complete and fully working machines too. Granted, they don't do much in terms of candies (it's the east coast after all) but I've seen many many unbelievable deals post and sell before I even saw the listing.

They had a pair of deluxe motion Sega GT cabs complete and working except for the rear-projection monitors listed for $500 last month that I was drooling over... if I were local I would have been all over that.

They have an actual website too: http://coinopwarehouse.com but you don't really get much out of that. I'm sure if you called them they'd let you know what they've got.
 
1. Power up the cabinet and let it sit for at least 30 mins to warm up and go to this 'haze' state.
2. Reduce the haze with 'screen' adjustment on the flyback.
3. Turn the screen sharp as possible with 'focus' adjustment on the flyback.

See if it stays good.

Random picture of a flyback:
k7000_flyback.jpg
 
Thanks. I will try it. I believe the focus adjustment on the flyback is the middle one. Is the screen adjustment the bottom knob? On mine; it is glued and not adjustable. Do I try and get the glue off to adjust it? I believe the top knob does nothing?
 
Use a flashlight, there should be text around the knobs. If there are three pots it is a dual focus chassis and there will be focus 1 and focus 2. 1 does the most work and 2 is for the edges of the screen. Best to do it with a friend or mirror setup.
 
The bottom screen adjustment is glued fairly well and wasn't able to get it to move last night. I know on a previous monitor I had (D9200) that adjustment helped tremendously with brightness so it is worth checking and trying to get the glue off - why do they glue these anyway?

Update - So I turn on the cabinet last night to get the monitor warmed-up as suggested and it initially boots into the "hazed" screen immediately. I decide to let it run for 30 minutes as suggested and when I got back it had a completely dark screen. So I unplugged the monitor and plugged it back in just to see if anything would happen and amazingly it is "back to normal". The monitor starts up with a great looking screen and the same as it looked initially. Good news, but not completely. I let it run for another 30-40 minutes and eventually it will go either black and completely white screen. When I unplug it and plug it back in - it will go back to normal but after time it will eventually lose the picture. So what does this say for the possible issue? Is it the caps that are no longer able to hold a charge that causes the issue? I checked with arcade buffet and he is able to recap the D9200, but unable to test it on a test rig, so I would need to be fairly confident the caps are the issue. Curious what everyone thinks based on this new information and if I can pinpoint the possible issue to make sure it is addressed correctly with repair. Also - a slight "burn" smell was found after the last restart and I unplugged it permanently. Thanks for any insights.
 
that slight burnt smell could just be hot dust... I find a lot of dusty monitors tend to get that smell.

if this were my monitor I wouldn't even be bothering with any additional troubleshooting until I did a cap kit. based on your symptoms your flyback might be bad, but failing caps can also produce those simptoms as well.

A cap kit cost about $15 and takes about 20-40 minutes with a soldering iron to do. In general you should expect to have to do this every 10-15 years on a given CRT... it's like getting the timing belt replaced on your car; regular maintenance. It's very easy soldering and difficult to screw up as long as you take your time.
 
Thanks. I agree. Just making sure the probability is the caps as he is unable to test the chassis so if it is not the caps and/or flyback - I would be back at square one. I really wish I had the confidence to do the recapping myself - someday I will get some practice with soldering and hope to be able to do this type of thing myself.
 
I have 7 of these monitors, I have had the same issues on several. At this point in wells Gardner's life they started using the cheapest Daewoo caps and other Koren branded caps, testing them on a capacitor tester after removing them shows they were almost all way off spec, the capacitors were basically acting like resistors and causing several issues. Once capped if you have any other issues try changing the serial EPROM. That can cause the resolution issue as it can get corrupted. One of mine is bad and will only show VGA, if you leave it too long something else will blow and the repair will be more of a headache.
 
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