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Midway Wolf conversions

these are the best prices I've found on this chips:
M27C801 - 20 piece lot (2.05 per) + free shipping
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fre...lgo_pvid=84aa8e3f-8a10-44cd-841a-f87d932bee61

for a smaller lot (5 piece) 2.47 per + free shipping is the best I've found
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FRE...lgo_pvid=b0dfa729-dc7d-4d28-9d0f-ecdfb8822868

M27C4001 - 0.66 per + 3.58 shipping
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M27...lgo_pvid=187cbf24-e4f9-47c9-989b-0d16de346aa0


if anyone else can find better deals let me know.
 
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I changed my WWF Wrestlemania board to a MK3 board using the Any U64 ROMs. I had played plenty of UMK3 but I was dying to play MK3 on my cabinet using the real hardware. I enjoy both games very much! It would be nice though if there was a way of making this a multi where you didn't have to change so many ROMs, only because those boards feel so flimsy. I feel like one wrong move and the board would just crack in half.
 
The board makes god awful cracking noises when you hold it, I always feel like I'm going to break it if I touch it



I should play UMK3 more.... I need to make a dedicated MK control panel for my Astro I think
 
xodaraP said:
The board makes god awful cracking noises when you hold it, I always feel like I'm going to break it if I touch it
Click to expand...
Big time! The SMD stuff on these is always breaking (weak cold joints) free...
If you have any bootup faults, reflow first as it's most often whats wrong (cheap American made trash haha).
 
I have UMK3, WWF and Hangtime (+ MAX roms) on real PCB as i always loved this hardware and it amazed me in the arcades with its huge sprites, DCS sound and smooth framerate. I even dumped the MAX ht roms back in the day when i got my pcb, as it was an undumped revision.
I don't think a multi is really good for this platform, not too much games, and easier to buy what you really play & love :)
Same goes for T-Unit like NBA Jam and Te, MK1, MK2 and you're done. In my opinion at least. ;)
 
Yeah, a multi would be good for Wolf hardware though in that the boards are horribly fragile and getting expensive these days. T-Unit would be next to impossible due to the seperate sound and main boards I think
 
So I bought another Wolf unit board that arrived yesterday - a Rampage World Tour that has been converted from a MK3 at some point.

The U64 has the factory label on it so is it possible some of these were converted at the factory or at the very least the factory provided the U64 to the operator to facilitate conversion?

Either way it works perfectly so I'm not worried about it, only noticed that the PLCC customs were marked MKIII
 
I don't think it's a conversion. The PLCC customs are marked as MKIII on Wolf hardware regardless of the game.
 
I've tested both Any-U64 and Darksoft's version on a UMK3->NBA Maximum Hangtime conversion scenario.

IMG_2923_zpsz69pqlmj.jpg



Here are my findings;

ANY-U64) The Any-U64 game roms are detected as green on the stratup test screen. Also "Any-U64" label is displayed on upper right where the game S/N or model number is supposed to be displayed.

IMG_2928_zpssjrxex2x.jpg


DS_Version) The DS version of the game roms show up RED on the startup test screen. However, the game S/N is displayed as it is.

IMG_2940_zpsw1tusnkh.jpg



ANY-U64) I generally see a CMOS error here. But when I continue game plays. When I restart the PCB I do not see a CMOS error but later some other problems occur.

IMG_2950_zpsofeimnj4.jpg


DS_Version) There appears an error message on the bottom saying "Level 2 security check failure". However, game starts and plays fine.

IMG_2945_zpsardvus7r.jpg


Other Observations:

ANY-U64 version seems to have some problems with credits. Sometimes when you coin-up/press credit button it makes the credit sound but the credit does not show up...

IMG_2951_zpstbebtn8w.jpg


On DS version I didn't encountered the credit problem.

Couldn't get a consistent CMOS OK message on both versions although I have fresh battery on the PCB. If I coin-up and play a game, the statistics and coin audits get corrupted. I'm using a 2032 battery although it is 3V it is not the original size battery. May be thats the problem, don't know...

IMG_2952_zpsfxtyrlrl.jpg


IMG_2953_zpscxlunuw8.jpg


And lastly, when I remove the PIC, I do not see any video on startup, just the single "bong!" sound. The game won't boot.
 
yavuzg said:
I've tested both Any-U64 and Darksoft's version on a UMK3->NBA Maximum Hangtime conversion scenario.

And lastly, when I remove the PIC, I do not see any video on startup, just the single "bong!" sound. The game won't boot.
Click to expand...
That happens with both hacks I guess, right?
 
Yes, it happens for both hacks, tested on two different wolf units. The game won't boot without a security PIC.
 
Do the games suggest to clear the cmos after they find errors? I can imagine there being old data from a previous game and coinage settings etc. In nvram which needs to be cleared before first use.
 
Asure said:
Do the games suggest to clear the cmos after they find errors? I can imagine there being old data from a previous game and coinage settings etc. In nvram which needs to be cleared before first use.
Click to expand...
No the games do not complain in such detail but I thought that might be the case and removed the battery to let the previous settings go away, which didn't worked. But I really do not know where these settings are stored or how long should I leave the board without battery to completely clear the previous settings or is there a way to "format" the previous settings (i.e. like a konami board, if you press test button while powering up, it clears the nvram)

As you said, let me try this; I'll leave the pcb without the battery for a while, say couple of hours. Lets see what happens when I come back home...
 
I don't have access to my games at work, but i think you can just enter the service mode, and do a 'full factory restore' which should clear & rewrite the nvram on these games. Swapping games was not in the design when they made the boards, so it does not force a clear of nvram like MVS, CPS2, 3 or F3 boards. (Doing so would clear any bookkeeping data as well i think, which would piss off the operators.)
 
Asure said:
I don't have access to my games at work, but i think you can just enter the service mode, and do a 'full factory restore' which should clear & rewrite the nvram on these games. Swapping games was not in the design when they made the boards, so it does not force a clear of nvram like MVS, CPS2, 3 or F3 boards. (Doing so would clear any bookkeeping data as well i think, which would piss off the operators.)
Click to expand...
I agree...

I remember I did "factory restore" but again, I don't remember why/when exactly I get a "CMOS not valid" error after doing what. I need to do some more tests and analysis.
 
Finally got a Rampage board, so soon I can start testing some of these conversions.

@yavuzg Please keep sharing your findings.
 
Derick2k said:
Finally got a Rampage board, so soon I can start testing some of these conversions.

@yavuzg Please keep sharing your findings.
Click to expand...
The UMK3=>MK3 conversion works like a charm.

UMK3=>NBA Maximum Hangtime works but CMOS settings get corrupted and during next boot factory defaults loaded. This is not related with battery. The very same PCB, when populated with UMK3/MK3 ROMs do not loose CMOS settings. Anyway, fun game. Workaround: set the coinage to DIP + free play and it'll serve its purpose, fun :)

This is all I've done with these conversions. I only needed MK3. NBA was just a bonus...
 
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