XtraSmiley
Legendary
Yes, that's the best one to get for North America. I have it and it works amazing with the HAS. I haven't had any power issues at all.
- Thread starter RGB
- Start date
XtraSmiley
Legendary
2 December 2018 HAS testing update, and some FAQ
What Power supply?
Buy This One
or Buy This One
DON'T Buy This One
You will need a power cord to go from your wall power to your power supply. Any 3 prong cord is fine, just cut the end off and twist the wires to work under the screw in the correct spot on the power supply. You can also put fork adapters on the wires, but it's not needed.
This is a "fork" adapter, you can crimp or solder one to the end of each of your power cable's cables.
The cable from the power supply to the HAS is included and does not need a fork or any modification at all.
The HAS does support negative (-5v). Your power supply MUST provide -5v and it will be wired via the (included) green cable to the HAS. The HAS does not generate it's own -5v signal however, so make sure you buy one of the above linked power supplies to ensure you get -5v for games that need them.
At this time I have not needed to purchase a SCART cable to use with the OSSC at all. Please try my settings before spending an extra $20-25 on something you may not need. A small caveat is that you will not have a LPF in this scenario, resulting in very light image distortion most visible on solid backgrounds. See my note below about this. I will retest when I get my SCART cable.
@jassin000 Claims Mortal Kombat boards won't work without the SCART connection. I don't have any to test myself, but he knows what he's talking about, so heads up.
I am using HAS 3.1, OSSC 1.6 FW .81, 8pin min DIN cable with the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC, with 3.5 audio cable for sound.
HAS 3.1 right side showing 8pin min DIN cable connection and 3.5mm audio cable. These two cables plug into the OSSC (see below). Note that on the HAS I have the jumper (JP2) 75 Ohm/TLL pulled off (meaning it is in TTL mode) and the Switch 1 (SW1) set to (B) Buffered for CSync.
OSSC 1.6 version. Left side when looking from top. HDMI cable out and 3.5mm audio cable into OSSC port "A3 IN" from the HAS.
OSSC 1.6 version. Right side when looking from top. 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC "V3 IN" port. 8pin min DIN cable plugged into it from the HAS. Lower cable is the OSSC power.
On OSSC the default setting for Pre/Post Coast is 1. You may have to set to something higher such as 4 to get a good sync for some games. I was able to get a sync on some games at 1 but I have read that others needed a 4 for the same game, so it could be odd tolerances between boards. Finally you must be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).
Atomiswave : Dolphin Blue, Metal Slug 6 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to off, get 480i passthrough, looks like shit, and you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to on, get 480p passthrough, looks much better but you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
Capcom CPS2 : Darksoft Multi CPS2, Dungeons & Dragons Tower of Doom (Phoenix ROMs) =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Irem M72 : Dragon Breed =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off. Also, bottom layer of this games screen is cut off (score, lives, time layer) at the default settings. To see it you have to adjust the settings under Advance Timing Tweaker. I set Vertical Sync Length to 6, Vertical Backporch Length to 30, and Vertical Active Length to 240. This allows you to see the full bottom line information and graphics, however the top is now cut off a bit. You could cut back on my settings to see the numbers, giving up a little bit of the graphics but gaining back the top line. Your call how you rock this.
Irem M92 : Hook, In The Hunt, Gunforce, Major Title 2, Ninja Baseball Bat Man =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
PGM : Demon Front, Espagaluda, The Gladiator, Oriental Legend, Photo Y2K, Photo Y2K 2 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Taito F3 : Elevator Action Returns =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega STV : Radiant Silvergun =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega System 16 : Altered Beast, ESWAT, Golden Axe, Shinobi =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
TAD : Blood Bros =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Not having a SCART cable makes it so you can play all PCBs with one cable, and avoid having to change the TTL to 75R, which is hard because the jumper is under the plexi, but there is one issue, see below.
*****Low Pass Filter. The HAS uses a THS7316, which doesn't have a LPF (at the frequency we are using for Arcade Boards), but that is normally good because the OSSC has a built in LPF. What you never want is, more than one LPF, or no LPF, so we should be set right? Yes, except the OSSC VGA input that we are using via the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter doesn't have a LPF, so in essence, our feeds in this set up do NOT have a LPF at all, resulting in a picture that isn't as good as it could be. This is likely the reason I have some of the distortion I listed earlier below. Once I get my SCART cable, I'll post my results.******
The ONLY thing I think I noticed, and it's difficult to spot because you need a solid back ground and there is no way to pause arcade games, is that the images seem to have slight distortion in the solid back grounds. You can Google why LPF are important in old arcade/console image clarity to see some examples. It's not terrible, but I'll post more results when I get my SCART cable.
Anyway, a big thanks to RGB for the HAS, Jassin for his testing before hand that let me jump right into playing, and to James at JNX, who is always helping me get shit working!
What Power supply?
Buy This One
or Buy This One
DON'T Buy This One
You will need a power cord to go from your wall power to your power supply. Any 3 prong cord is fine, just cut the end off and twist the wires to work under the screw in the correct spot on the power supply. You can also put fork adapters on the wires, but it's not needed.
This is a "fork" adapter, you can crimp or solder one to the end of each of your power cable's cables.
The cable from the power supply to the HAS is included and does not need a fork or any modification at all.
The HAS does support negative (-5v). Your power supply MUST provide -5v and it will be wired via the (included) green cable to the HAS. The HAS does not generate it's own -5v signal however, so make sure you buy one of the above linked power supplies to ensure you get -5v for games that need them.
At this time I have not needed to purchase a SCART cable to use with the OSSC at all. Please try my settings before spending an extra $20-25 on something you may not need. A small caveat is that you will not have a LPF in this scenario, resulting in very light image distortion most visible on solid backgrounds. See my note below about this. I will retest when I get my SCART cable.
@jassin000 Claims Mortal Kombat boards won't work without the SCART connection. I don't have any to test myself, but he knows what he's talking about, so heads up.
I am using HAS 3.1, OSSC 1.6 FW .81, 8pin min DIN cable with the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC, with 3.5 audio cable for sound.
HAS 3.1 right side showing 8pin min DIN cable connection and 3.5mm audio cable. These two cables plug into the OSSC (see below). Note that on the HAS I have the jumper (JP2) 75 Ohm/TLL pulled off (meaning it is in TTL mode) and the Switch 1 (SW1) set to (B) Buffered for CSync.
OSSC 1.6 version. Left side when looking from top. HDMI cable out and 3.5mm audio cable into OSSC port "A3 IN" from the HAS.
OSSC 1.6 version. Right side when looking from top. 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC "V3 IN" port. 8pin min DIN cable plugged into it from the HAS. Lower cable is the OSSC power.
On OSSC the default setting for Pre/Post Coast is 1. You may have to set to something higher such as 4 to get a good sync for some games. I was able to get a sync on some games at 1 but I have read that others needed a 4 for the same game, so it could be odd tolerances between boards. Finally you must be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).
Atomiswave : Dolphin Blue, Metal Slug 6 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to off, get 480i passthrough, looks like shit, and you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to on, get 480p passthrough, looks much better but you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
Capcom CPS2 : Darksoft Multi CPS2, Dungeons & Dragons Tower of Doom (Phoenix ROMs) =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Irem M72 : Dragon Breed =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off. Also, bottom layer of this games screen is cut off (score, lives, time layer) at the default settings. To see it you have to adjust the settings under Advance Timing Tweaker. I set Vertical Sync Length to 6, Vertical Backporch Length to 30, and Vertical Active Length to 240. This allows you to see the full bottom line information and graphics, however the top is now cut off a bit. You could cut back on my settings to see the numbers, giving up a little bit of the graphics but gaining back the top line. Your call how you rock this.
Irem M92 : Hook, In The Hunt, Gunforce, Major Title 2, Ninja Baseball Bat Man =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
PGM : Demon Front, Espagaluda, The Gladiator, Oriental Legend, Photo Y2K, Photo Y2K 2 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Taito F3 : Elevator Action Returns =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega STV : Radiant Silvergun =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega System 16 : Altered Beast, ESWAT, Golden Axe, Shinobi =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
TAD : Blood Bros =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Not having a SCART cable makes it so you can play all PCBs with one cable, and avoid having to change the TTL to 75R, which is hard because the jumper is under the plexi, but there is one issue, see below.
*****Low Pass Filter. The HAS uses a THS7316, which doesn't have a LPF (at the frequency we are using for Arcade Boards), but that is normally good because the OSSC has a built in LPF. What you never want is, more than one LPF, or no LPF, so we should be set right? Yes, except the OSSC VGA input that we are using via the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter doesn't have a LPF, so in essence, our feeds in this set up do NOT have a LPF at all, resulting in a picture that isn't as good as it could be. This is likely the reason I have some of the distortion I listed earlier below. Once I get my SCART cable, I'll post my results.******
The ONLY thing I think I noticed, and it's difficult to spot because you need a solid back ground and there is no way to pause arcade games, is that the images seem to have slight distortion in the solid back grounds. You can Google why LPF are important in old arcade/console image clarity to see some examples. It's not terrible, but I'll post more results when I get my SCART cable.
Anyway, a big thanks to RGB for the HAS, Jassin for his testing before hand that let me jump right into playing, and to James at JNX, who is always helping me get shit working!
Last edited:
This is the PSU I use, Mean Well P606, sold here in the USA at TQ:
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=521_526&products_id=4
Fantastic PSU, haven’t had problems with any of my boards and sometimes I run some of the older power-hungry pcb’s.
I highly recommend this one.
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=521_526&products_id=4
Fantastic PSU, haven’t had problems with any of my boards and sometimes I run some of the older power-hungry pcb’s.
I highly recommend this one.
Hey @xtrasmiley
You can pause some arcade games. MVS for example, flick dipswitch 7 to pause. Other games have a similar feature but I can't remember them off the top of my head.
P.s. great write-up!
You can pause some arcade games. MVS for example, flick dipswitch 7 to pause. Other games have a similar feature but I can't remember them off the top of my head.
P.s. great write-up!
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Yes, some you can pause, but only some boards. I think you can see visual problems as it’s playing and if you need to really examine it, it’s probably good enough!
@RGBhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Prima-Blac...h=item5b3874d2e5:g:nSIAAOSwVaZa9ALI:rk:1:pf:0 <- 42PP0606.
edit, inside the Prima Power 42PP0606:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/425/18491307858_8bb842e077_o.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/386/18491460720_82053e71d9_o.jpg
We should tell the guys here about the Problems this PSU has with power load in combination Sega jvs to Jamma I/O and Sega NAOMI2.
Perhaps you can explain about the Need to ad this extra Resistor in order to make your Saturn Adapters work Propperly.
i personally would not get this one again and prefer finding another one.....so if anyone has a good idea...thanks
@hardyhell - There really is no problem with this PSU. Every PSU requires meeting minimal load specifications. The problems with your setup might come from something else - unless you loaded the PSU as I told you and it solved it.
Like I explained, you connect the PSU to just the HAS and the JVS I/O, which combined MAYBE require 200-300mA? That's too little and you need to load the PSU a bit more by adding a cement resistor between the +5V and GND.
Like I explained, you connect the PSU to just the HAS and the JVS I/O, which combined MAYBE require 200-300mA? That's too little and you need to load the PSU a bit more by adding a cement resistor between the +5V and GND.
Last edited:
J
jassin000
Not just MK, but all the Midway PCBs I own... Y-Unit, T-Unit, Wolf-Unit.
Also in addition to the SCART cable you simply MUST have a iScan DVDO (VP30/50/50Pro) for unlock 60.0hz feature and set the OSSC to 3x output.
No other OSSC mode will work, an no monitor/TV I've found yet will accept the scan rate as-is.
The Midway family is by far the most troublesome PCBs I've ever used on a scaler.
I would say for these you are waaaaay better off using a analog CRT, anyone who knows me understands I died a little inside as I typed that.
pacoarcade
Professional
Is the 42PP0606 suitable to use with a Neo Geo MV-1FZ?
I've tested the Mean Well RT125A (available at Mouser) with a broken MV-1FZ and it apparently works fine, the +5V look stable but I've only measured it with a multimeter, not with a scope. Not sure if this means it's safe to use this way or I should use some cement resistors in parallel with extra wattage rating to be sure to use >2A (or >3A in the case of the 42PP0606). +12V line also specifies a minimum, but the PSU works anyway.
I've tested the Mean Well RT125A (available at Mouser) with a broken MV-1FZ and it apparently works fine, the +5V look stable but I've only measured it with a multimeter, not with a scope. Not sure if this means it's safe to use this way or I should use some cement resistors in parallel with extra wattage rating to be sure to use >2A (or >3A in the case of the 42PP0606). +12V line also specifies a minimum, but the PSU works anyway.
ShootTheCore
Legendary
I have this power supply on my setup, it works fine with everything I've thrown at it *except* the neo-geo MV1C and the PGM boards. It seem those draw less than 1A, so the power supply makes a horrible whining noise while using those, however neogeo MV2F, CPS2, AtomisWave, MK2, MK3, CPS1 boards, all work fine without whining.
pacoarcade
Professional
I bought it from the link posted by RGB:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Prima-Black-Switching-JAMMA-Power-Supply-5V-12V-MWP-606/391789204197
It has not arrived yet.
thank you again.
i understood all of that and it is really great that you help out in that way.
personally i would still prefer a PSU where i won`t have to put my Hands on and mod it.and i think other People run risk to hate the same Problem with the same Setup.
one important question still...the the resistor is only needed if i continue to use the naomi with my supergun?for all other pcb it is ok to let it be like it is?
Thanks
Speaking from my experience, I never had to additionally load it when I used the JAMMA PCBs (even the MV-1C).
My HAS from the latest batch already arrived. Not tested yet, but it looks great. Thanks again, RGB!
btw, what type is the power connector on the HAS? Is it a JST VH? http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eVH.pdf
btw, what type is the power connector on the HAS? Is it a JST VH? http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eVH.pdf
