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archimage said:
don't forget to make vents for cooling, I don't think it's safer when totally closed like this
Click to expand...
Agree, it's cold at home and after a few hours the same PSU was hot, just sitting on the table.

I want to do an eclosure too, but i guess this might need some kind of active cooling and air extraction (or i'll wait for someone to sell a nice home made 3d printed front cover)
 
Catzoo said:
archimage said:
don't forget to make vents for cooling, I don't think it's safer when totally closed like this
Click to expand...
Agree, it's cold at home and after a few hours the same PSU was hot, just sitting on the table.
I want to do an eclosure too, but i guess this might need some kind of active cooling and air extraction (or i'll wait for someone to sell a nice home made 3d printed front cover)
Click to expand...
@twistedsymphony
 
I finally was able to put my HAS up and running and I tested it with a couple of jamma board, everythings works great. I just I wish I didn't forget to order a second SAT pad adapter. Well, next time.
I must say I was very pleased with HAS building quality! :)
Thanks to @RGB for the great work and to you guys for the suggestions about the power supply.

One last thing: could you be more specific about which jumpers to close in order to use a PS1 RGB cable? I've a third party knockoff which served me very good for the last 20yrs or so, just wanted to give a shot at it. I tried it yesterday and image is out of sync (of course, with no jumper tweak).
 
Catzoo said:
I want to do an eclosure too, but i guess this might need some kind of active cooling and air extraction (or i'll wait for someone to sell a nice home made 3d printed front cover)
Click to expand...
archimage said:
@twistedsymphony
Click to expand...
There are literally hundreds of power supply caps available: https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:power_supply_cover/page:6

the reason being is that DIY and other budget 3D printers use a similar style PSU so lots of people have printed end caps to keep the wires from being exposed.
 
twistedsymphony said:
There are literally hundreds of power supply caps available: https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:power_supply_cover/page:6

the reason being is that DIY and other budget 3D printers use a similar style PSU so lots of people have printed end caps to keep the wires from being exposed.
Click to expand...
I'm always amazed by what you can find on thingiverse o_O

If anyone finds an already MWP-606 (which i guess most people will use here as it's a highly recommended one and i can't agree more for what i've tested so far), feel free to share !

Also, as i don't own any kind of 3D Printer right now, if anyone (in EU ?) would like to print one, i'll buy one for sure, and probably other folks here :)

(or put a damn HAS logo on it :D)
 
I am so disapointed.....At least i succes to find time to try it but I have no signal video....with my cps1...i forgot something?

img_2071.jpg


img_2070.jpg


img_2069.jpg
 
can you be more explicit ? is it the board ? the cable ? the settings ?
 
i use ps2 câble and i dont managed any setting only défaut. Cps2 normally run it seems no video output.
 
Is your PS2 Scart cable wired for Sync on CSync on Luma pin?
 
There's a jumper on the PS2 adapter to change between Luma/CSync. Also, make sure the CSync (marked SW1) is set to "B" position (buffered). Also, make sure the cable doesn't have any additional components inside, like the sync stripper. If it does, set the CSync on HAS to TTL (SW5). Do you have a link to the specific cable that you bought? I know that RGC sells a few variations.
 
this has a built in sync separator, so you have to set the HAS to TTL
 
You don't need a cable with sync cleaner, it's unnecessary for the arcade stuff (the way it's implemented in that cable). Also, it's weird that in the pictures the cable's got capacitors on the RGB lines, because the PS2 doesn't require those.
 
lol
 

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KingSopz said:
lol
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like of all of us before you....

thx all. Unfortanelly you are right this PS2 csync with separator dont run, with a cheap PS2 scart it run very well, so do you think this cable is it good with luma sync with out separator?

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...NY-PLAYSTATION-PACKAPUNCH-RGB-SCART-CABLE-PRO

Also it's so nice I play with my CPS1 & CPS2 and I never see a so nice picture with my OSSC vs PSX/SAT port. I just played with saturn pad...I will configure my PS2 Stick.

I am nonosto and approuved HAS.0
 
Glad it works now. Either way, try changing the jumper on the HAS PS2 adapter and set the CSync to TTL, then the cable with the sync stripper should work, too. Also, it is very simple to re-wire this cable, if you make some photos I can show you which trace to cut and where to solder.

If you really want a new cable, then this one will do the trick - https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...aystation-2-rgb-scart-cable-lead-sync-on-luma

nonosto said:
I am nonosto and approuved HAS.0
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That's a relief :D
 
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