What's new
I checked the 5V rail on my scope by soldering an SMA connector to a jammafier (coax connection all the way..). The root of the issue was ripple on the 5V line, earthing stuff may fix it - but AC outlet power stuff is a bit above my pay-grade. The PSU in question that I used was properly earthed, and my apartments electrical system was rebuild from scratch in 2014, so i don't think that's the core of the issue. The problematic power showed a VPP ripple of 178mV (video looked terrible), my lab PSU in exact same setup had 33mV ripple.

Executive summary: it's was not 'interference'.

Good:
2018-12-31 moon patrol DP831 ac couipled 5v.png
Bad:
2018-12-31 moon patrol atx power ac couipled 5v.png


Now I don't expect people to have linear expensive lab supplies laying about, or solder coax connectors to their system and hook it up to oscilloscopes to trouble shoot video issues - but if you have video issues, it may be worth the trouble to check with a different supply.
 
Last edited:
Just to make sure I dont screw up my neo geo 2 slot, how does the HAS handle the stereo output? I had a supergun in the past that you have to switch from jamma mono or jamma stereo. I dont see such a switch on the HAS.
 
The HAS is mono only via JAMMA, so I suggest to remove jumpers from the JP1 on the HAS, and use the line level stereo output directly from the MV2.
 
Got a question for the group. What capabilities am I losing from getting a V3 and not waiting for the V3.2?


Thanks,

Kelly
 
The V3 uses a potentiometer to adjust CSync for Taito F3 connected to XRGB mini (in order to fix the upper part of the screen), in V3.1-2 it's done automatically. The V3.2 allows to disable buttons 4-6 on the JAMMA connector, the V3 lacks this functionality.
 
I wouldn't, even if it "works" rather I'd go with a SCART cable to SCARTComponent adapter from Amazon.
The quality on that little device is really very good...

Here you can see the comparison, taken with a PVM14L5 (works with both RGBs and YPbPr) so the only difference is the format/adapter.
6W3AKRJ.jpg


Most noticable is the color inaccuracy, but it's really very minor and is in fact a amazing reproduction in NTSC color space.

"The first NTSC standard was developed in 1941 and had no provision for color. In 1953 a second NTSC standard was adopted, which allowed for color television broadcasting which was compatible with the existing stock of black-and-white receivers. NTSC was the first widely adopted broadcast color system and remained dominant until the 2000s"
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hmmm interesting. The guys over at HDRetro Vision has worked long and true on their product. I highly doubt that this converter can exceed the quality HDRetro Vision pushes out?

But you do have/own this converter so to each is own.
 
Last edited:
The RGB to component converter linked to on Amazon is a cheap clone of the CSY-2100. The latter being the original product and of much higher quality, especially noticeable in colour reproduction.

Another option which has an equally good conversion to the CSY-2100 and the benefit of audio pass-through is the Shinybow SB-2840.

The HD RetroVision cables are fine but take a few shortcuts in order to simplify and cram the circuit into the cable.

The benefit of the external converters is that they can be used with any system that outputs RGBS over scart. The downside is their size and fact they require external power.

The benefit of the HD cables is their compactness and ease of use, nothing else is required other than the cable. The downside is they can only be used on the one system and the video quality doesn't match that of the external converters.
 
and the video quality doesn't match that of the external converters.
Bingo! ;)
The guys over at HDRetro Vision has worked long and true on their product
HDRetro Vision worked long and true?
Plz, they stuffed a converter in a cable and marketed it to dummies who couldn't figure this stuff out for themselves.
dolan_400x400.png


Furthermore unless you have a CRT TV that accepts component, a modern LCD/QLED/OLED either...
  • Won't work at all
  • Will work but look like shit because it treats all low resolution as interlaced source
"240p video signals are electrically equivalent to 480i signals, except for that special timing signal described above. Because of this, improperly designed TVs can misinterpret 240p signals as 480i signals."
Well that and improperly modern TVs were never designed to display progressive low resolution(s).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I’ve seen some consumer photos/comparisons of the HD Retro Vision cables over on Reddit and it’s all a bit of a scam isn’t it. The RGB Hype Mafia strikes once again! :love: :thumbdown:
 
Back
Top