- Thread starter RGB
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The Spaniard
Professional
I know I expressed interest in a HAS back in May but received no PM about it.
The Spaniard
Professional
I will soon receive my HAS system, could you confirm what's must use power supply please?
@nonosto
You don't need to solder.
The power supply you linked to will be fine. RGB provides a power cable with the HAS, you simply connect one end to the HAS via a plug, and the other end will have fork terminals which will insert into the terminal block of your arcade PSU, and are secured by using a screwdriver to screw the terminals down tight thus clamping the wires in place.
Simple version: Just buy the power supply, nothing else is needed.
I assume you have knowledge of connecting the arcade power supply to mains power? If not, please be careful and ask for help if needed.
You don't need to solder.
The power supply you linked to will be fine. RGB provides a power cable with the HAS, you simply connect one end to the HAS via a plug, and the other end will have fork terminals which will insert into the terminal block of your arcade PSU, and are secured by using a screwdriver to screw the terminals down tight thus clamping the wires in place.
Simple version: Just buy the power supply, nothing else is needed.
I assume you have knowledge of connecting the arcade power supply to mains power? If not, please be careful and ask for help if needed.
J
jassin000
I highly recommend you double/triple check the terminal wiring before powering on the unit/supply.
I made the mistake of wiring a HAS incorrectly once, feeding 12v into the 5v line WILL destroy the HAS in 0.1 seconds.
Ouch. Did you have a game board connected too or just the HAS?
J
jassin000
Game board too, but that was totally unaffected/still worked fine.
Seems the HAS absorbed the excess voltage at its own peril/destruction.
Some horror shots (yes that IC actually burst into flames momentarily)...
Even when removed/desoldered look what it did to the PCB underneath...
Seems the HAS absorbed the excess voltage at its own peril/destruction.
Some horror shots (yes that IC actually burst into flames momentarily)...
Even when removed/desoldered look what it did to the PCB underneath...
The Spaniard
Professional
That'll buff out?Even when removed/desoldered look what it did to the PCB underneath...
THX All.
I know you must use a PC power cable and cut it for solder fork.
I dont have any knowledge about it....if you have a tutotiral for it please.
I know you must use a PC power cable and cut it for solder fork.
@nonosto - I recommend you buy a Mean Well MWP-606 or SUZO 42PP0606, the best PSU I've tested so far. The metal cage is really sturdy, build quality is top notch and the PSU doesn't get hot.
I will offer or at least release STL files for a cover for the Mean Well MWP-606/SUZO 42PP0606. It will be screwed to the unused COM terminal to hold the cover in place.
PSU connection:
I include the harness that goes between the PSU and HAS, you just need to buy the cable that goes between the PSU and the wall socket. Standard computer PSU cable will do, just cut and strip it. Even better would be an IEC cable with a switch - https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/computer-power-cord-with-switch.php
Avoid cheap Chinese PSUs and power cables.
I will offer or at least release STL files for a cover for the Mean Well MWP-606/SUZO 42PP0606. It will be screwed to the unused COM terminal to hold the cover in place.
PSU connection:
I include the harness that goes between the PSU and HAS, you just need to buy the cable that goes between the PSU and the wall socket. Standard computer PSU cable will do, just cut and strip it. Even better would be an IEC cable with a switch - https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/computer-power-cord-with-switch.php
Avoid cheap Chinese PSUs and power cables.
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I want to touch on the subject of ATX PSUs for powering the arcade stuff in case you wonder why I opt for the arcade dedicated PSUs instead.
ATX PSUs typically have high power rating, like 250-500W, that's what most people will use, because they have a spare one after upgrading their PC, or just find one cheap. Problem is, arcade PCBs don't require that much juice, you'd be hard pressed to find a game that needs more than 50W (perhaps games from early-mid 80ies), most will require 10-30W, which is like nothing for the ATX PSU. A short circuit that has some small resistance (i.e, +5V/+12V isn't shorted directly to GND) won't trip the PSU's short circuit protection immediately. Such short will basically be seen as load, so the PSU will push more amps before it detects the short (especially a cheap ATX PSU). A 250W or more can push a lot of amps, in result it can fry the PCB, or even melt the wires (depending on their insulation rating).
ATX PSUs typically have high power rating, like 250-500W, that's what most people will use, because they have a spare one after upgrading their PC, or just find one cheap. Problem is, arcade PCBs don't require that much juice, you'd be hard pressed to find a game that needs more than 50W (perhaps games from early-mid 80ies), most will require 10-30W, which is like nothing for the ATX PSU. A short circuit that has some small resistance (i.e, +5V/+12V isn't shorted directly to GND) won't trip the PSU's short circuit protection immediately. Such short will basically be seen as load, so the PSU will push more amps before it detects the short (especially a cheap ATX PSU). A 250W or more can push a lot of amps, in result it can fry the PCB, or even melt the wires (depending on their insulation rating).
