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Finally got the HAS!
That's a nicccce thick 8pin mini cable you got!Does it goto/end in Euro SCART?
Did you buy it/find it online someplace?! 8o

PLZ share ^^
Here’s where I got the scart cable-
https://retro-access.com/products/fortraflex-8-pin-mini-din-rgb-scart-cable-for-mods

I’m actually using a scart to component adapter and I’m currently using this one and it works very well-
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/273178172012
 
Howdy @RGB - I got my HAS tonight - all hooked up and works great so far! I need to order a DB15-RGBs bnc cable, but i hacked it all together for now and works well.

Not quite HAS related - but I tried to hook up my new meanwell RT-125A power supply at the same time to get everything dialed in, and the power supply just kept cycling - green light on the PS on and then off, and there is a slight noise as it cycles. It is set to 115V... any idea? i suppose something could be wrong from the factory - but seems unlikely.

Matt
The RT125A has a minimum power that it is required to work, and if the load is not enough, then it does exactly what you describe. Some boards (PGM and neo geo MV-1C in my experience) do not draw enough power from the power supply and it refuses to work. Nothing wrong with the PS, it's just the way it works. It does work perfectly with CPS1, CPS2, neogeo MV2F and Atomiswave though.
 
I think the HAS 3.1 is just using the default settings, other than the controller mappings that I set. It's outputting via SCART to the OSSC, and I've tried plugging headphones into the 3.5mm jack on the HAS, but I'm still not getting any audio going that route, either. The OSSC is set to Line5x mode; haven't tried switching to line2x or anything a little more lenient. The weird thing is that there's no audio or video, though - I could understand the OSSC having video issues but still outputting sound... but nothing? Just kinda weird. The board was working fine before the seller sent it, and it was well-packed... so that, combined with the fact that the board is getting power has me pretty confused as to what's happening.
All other JAMMA boards I have work fine with these settings. Cave stuff, CPS-2 stuff, ZN-2 stuff, etc.
This really doesn't tell much, because the HAS settings could have changed during shipping or during case assembly, it's been almost two years?When you say you don't get audio, have you also tried to plug in the headphones or speakers to the HAS' 3.5mm jack output? If not, please do it, wait a moment for the attract mode sounds (unless it's disabled, then add coins instead).

I used to own a Mr Driller 2 PCB and also know people who own it and it works just fine, however not sure if it's compatible with the OSSC (it should be, though - try changing H-PLL pre and post coast settings).

edit: The most important question that I should have asked earlier - does the OSSC lock the signal (the OSSC's LCD screen should display the refresh rate of the signal)? If it does, but you don't see anything on the screen, then it's a problem with your TV set.
My Mr. D 2 and Mr. D G PCBs both work great with the HAS and an OSSC. Once I get dug out a bit, I'll post the settings if that helps and no one has done it yet.
Actually, that would be super helpful.

Haven't had much time to take a look at it, but I remembered that I didn't fiddle with the volume knob at all when I connected headphones to the 3.5mm jack on the HAS... tried that, and -- sound! Ok, so the board is fine.

As for the OSSC, all it's telling me is "NO SYNC". I'll tinker with it a bit this weekend.
 
I received the HAS V4 earlier this week and it is great! It looks like there would be space to place a de-populated/modified OSSC in place of the HD15 header for HDMI integration in the future too. Thank you RGB for all of your awesome work!


DSC00150.jpg



20190925114157.png
 
OK, I'm slowly digging stuff out to test (working on finding Mr Driller for you bud).

For now, I'm trying to get feedback out the door for all those who sold me PCBs, but I'm having trouble with two in particular. Cannot get sync with the OSSC from my HAS v4 on these two PCBs. Anyone got these to work and can post their settings? Again, not worried about display on TV yet, just tying to get sync on OSSC so I can confirm PCBs work to leave feedback for sellers.

Outzone
Tatsujin

Any help would be appreciated!

By the way, the new HAS is super sexy, great job as usual @RGB
 
I've posted pics of MK2 before, but because I was using my LG B6 OLED I also had to use the iScan DVDO.
This is my desktop setup (OSSC 1.5 DVI version) playing nicely with my BenQ (54.88Hz is no problem for these displays).
wcqFYRq.jpg


Cases help me make this crazy setup/gear compact enough to fit on my desktop.
I always keep the Comic/CD advertisement enabled in CMOS/DIPS.
y75k3na.jpg


You can see the JNX Raiden here pretty clearly, its adapting the CPS2/3 kicks into Midway style (also my reproduction comics from the promo/demo heh).
jJOsyYB.jpg


Yes MK2 (plexi'd) WILL fit the HAS (but only just barley) if you use a single CD case to help support the incredibly tight fit/join!
Naturally, if I've got my comics on display... And I needed a CD... I would use the CD also from the promo/demo. :)
TlrphCz.jpg


A few shots from the BenQ...
twBi5Xi.jpg


By setting the OSSC's advanced settings you can increase the v-size beyond that of 240 (squashes the pixels into a proper 4:3ish ratio/fits the monitor vertically).
c5aovqS.jpg


I'm selling that joystick in the pic btw :whistling:
With the JNX Raiden it defaults to...
[HP][BL][HK][LP]
[LP][NA][LK][XX]

Of course I use the fantastic remap feature of the HAS to move that block button to the bottom row (makes Sub Zero's slide easier to preform).
[HP][NA][HK][LP]
[LP][BL][LK][XX]

aka
[1][5][3][4]
[4][2][6][XX]
 
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@RGB - quick question. This is a weird one!

I got the saturn controller adapters... fired up X-men vs. SF - and my original saturn controller worked perfect out of the box. I had just purchased the new retro-bit saturn controllers and tried those out today. Those aren't mapped correctly... the dpad movements are mapped to buttons and vice versa.

Any reason why they wouldn't work out of the box?

I aslso tried the retro-bit controllers on my regular saturn - and they do work perfect there (no mapping issues).

Matt
 
My adapters are compatible only with the official Sega digital controllers, 3rd party controllers work with limited luck, it's in the product description.

Looks like the retrobit isn't a 1:1 replica of the Saturn controller if it doesn't work. Like I said before, I'll buy one of those retrobits and investigate the reason for incompatibility. I assume it's either a timing issue or the controller identifies itself as analog.
 
My adapters are compatible only with the official Sega digital controllers, 3rd party controllers work with limited luck, it's in the product description.

Looks like the retrobit isn't a 1:1 replica of the Saturn controller if it doesn't work. Like I said before, I'll buy one of those retrobits and investigate the reason for incompatibility. I assume it's either a timing issue or the controller identifies itself as analog.
Thanks - I didn't backread on it - I assumed since it worked on the Saturn it would work on your board... no worries... :)
 
Gents, it was mentioned in this thread to purchase an AC cable to power the PSU. Just watching a YouTube video (How to setup HAS) and the colors for FG / AC / AC in the video are different than the cable I have.

This is the cable, do we know what color I should be attaching to what post?

zfpE2bl.jpg
 
Hey, https://homearcadesystem.wordpress.com/faq/ please see point "2".


Just watching a YouTube video (How to setup HAS) and the colors for FG / AC / AC in the video are different than the cable I have.
Just to let you know, the video on YouTube about setting up the HAS isn't official and wasn't made by me.
Yup, appreciate it's not "official" but I think its great guidance, especially on easing the voltages as to not blow anything.

Also, thank you for the link! Am I correct assuming the FG / AC / AC on my PSU is in order top to bottom on your FAQ? (Eg. FG = Ground / AC = Neutral / AC = Live)
 
Am I correct assuming the FG / AC / AC on my PSU is in order top to bottom on your FAQ? (Eg. FG = Ground / AC = Neutral / AC = Live)
Your PSU should have its AC inputs very clearly labeled, and you should follow those labels. You could post a photo here if you want our advice, or you could check the PSU's datasheet as well. The PSU will always be labeled (usually L for Live, N for Neutral, and FG/G or "⏚" for earth/field-ground).

Also it's reasonably safe to assume that your cable is black->live, white->neutral, and green->earth but you can grab a multimeter and tone the 3 prongs against the three forks to make sure.
 
Am I correct assuming the FG / AC / AC on my PSU is in order top to bottom on your FAQ? (Eg. FG = Ground / AC = Neutral / AC = Live)
Your PSU should have its AC inputs very clearly labeled, and you should follow those labels. You could post a photo here if you want our advice, or you could check the PSU's datasheet as well. The PSU will always be labeled (usually L for Live, N for Neutral, and FG/G or "⏚" for earth/field-ground).
Also it's reasonably safe to assume that your cable is black->live, white->neutral, and green->earth but you can grab a multimeter and tone the 3 prongs against the three forks to make sure.
How bad did I do? lol
IrIC78L.jpg
 
Am I correct assuming the FG / AC / AC on my PSU is in order top to bottom on your FAQ? (Eg. FG = Ground / AC = Neutral / AC = Live)
Your PSU should have its AC inputs very clearly labeled, and you should follow those labels. You could post a photo here if you want our advice, or you could check the PSU's datasheet as well. The PSU will always be labeled (usually L for Live, N for Neutral, and FG/G or "⏚" for earth/field-ground).Also it's reasonably safe to assume that your cable is black->live, white->neutral, and green->earth but you can grab a multimeter and tone the 3 prongs against the three forks to make sure.
How bad did I do? lol
IrIC78L.jpg
Fire it up!
 
Am I correct assuming the FG / AC / AC on my PSU is in order top to bottom on your FAQ? (Eg. FG = Ground / AC = Neutral / AC = Live)
Your PSU should have its AC inputs very clearly labeled, and you should follow those labels. You could post a photo here if you want our advice, or you could check the PSU's datasheet as well. The PSU will always be labeled (usually L for Live, N for Neutral, and FG/G or "⏚" for earth/field-ground).Also it's reasonably safe to assume that your cable is black->live, white->neutral, and green->earth but you can grab a multimeter and tone the 3 prongs against the three forks to make sure.
How bad did I do? lol
Fire it up
Sure thing, just send a HAS my way! :)

Dying to play TMNT and Simpsons PCBs that have been sitting in my closet for 3+ months.
 
Ignore the video on YouTube. Either it’s an old version with different colors or it’s just wrong.

Everything you need for the wiring and assembly is in RGB’s instruction manual and modules assembly document.

I’ve also heard to not power up the power supply until you have it hooked up to the HAS and your game.
 
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