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    • ZoomBoy wrote:

      Twisted Quarter is super quick! I got my Meanwell to Canada in less than a week!
      That's probably because they don't use FedEx SmartPost for "international" shipping.

      FedEx SmartPost is their default (cheap) domestic shipping, and it takes FOREVER. I ordered parts for my X-men restoration last Tuesday, and it won't be here till this Friday. This is State to state shipping for crying-out-loud! You know there's something wrong when someone in another country gets their orders a lot faster than someone domestic.
    • ZoomBoy wrote:

      What do you guys recommend to wrap the power cables? I've seen some fabric-like stuff in photos. Not looking to do it in electric tape if possible :P
      Spiral Cable Wrap.

      I use it on my cables for my HAS, and it looks classy. You can get them in different colours too. Clear looks great, but I've used black in other applications as well.
    • ZoomBoy wrote:

      What do you guys recommend to wrap the power cables? I've seen some fabric-like stuff in photos. Not looking to do it in electric tape if possible :P
      I use this stuff for my sleeving needs and use heat shrink tube at the ends:
      cable-sleeving.com/
    • MoppelTheWhale wrote:

      ZoomBoy wrote:

      Guys, do I need standoffs for all my PCBs? I'm going to connect them to the HAS on my office desk (wood top) but not sure if I'm going to damage unless the underside of the board is floating?
      you don't need them if you have them on a wooden table. do have the enclosure for the has installed? in that case i would use feet, otherwise the pcb would hang on the jamma edge which would put quite some strain on it.
      I've had my HAS hanging off the JAMMA edge of my CPS2 board for a few months now, is this a serious problem? The HAS sits a little lower than the CPS2 so I can't really put them both flat. That is unless anyone has recommendations for CPS2 rubber feet?
    • moltomolto wrote:

      MoppelTheWhale wrote:

      ZoomBoy wrote:

      Guys, do I need standoffs for all my PCBs? I'm going to connect them to the HAS on my office desk (wood top) but not sure if I'm going to damage unless the underside of the board is floating?
      you don't need them if you have them on a wooden table. do have the enclosure for the has installed? in that case i would use feet, otherwise the pcb would hang on the jamma edge which would put quite some strain on it.
      I've had my HAS hanging off the JAMMA edge of my CPS2 board for a few months now, is this a serious problem? The HAS sits a little lower than the CPS2 so I can't really put them both flat. That is unless anyone has recommendations for CPS2 rubber feet?
      i'd try to keep them on equal height if possible, given enough time it certainly can put some stain on the connector or warp the board. - i used a jamma extender for this purpose, doesn't need to be long but it's better for the pcbs...
      Darksoft: CPS2, MVS, Taito F3, Sega ST-V
      Apocalypse: Irem M72
      RGB: HAS 3.1
      Frank_fjs: Sentinel Supergun, 4xMD2NEO (2 old, 2 new), 2xSNES2NEO, Jamma Extender w. Kick extension
      XianXi: Spitfire
      Cab: Sega Blast City (2930)
      VAPS
      Words to live by
    • moltomolto wrote:

      MoppelTheWhale wrote:

      ZoomBoy wrote:

      Guys, do I need standoffs for all my PCBs? I'm going to connect them to the HAS on my office desk (wood top) but not sure if I'm going to damage unless the underside of the board is floating?
      you don't need them if you have them on a wooden table. do have the enclosure for the has installed? in that case i would use feet, otherwise the pcb would hang on the jamma edge which would put quite some strain on it.
      I've had my HAS hanging off the JAMMA edge of my CPS2 board for a few months now, is this a serious problem? The HAS sits a little lower than the CPS2 so I can't really put them both flat. That is unless anyone has recommendations for CPS2 rubber feet?

      Just play around with putting stuff under the HAS and CPS2 until the JAMMA extenders are available.. I put a big coffee table book under my CPS2 and then a cd jewel case under the HAS. And when I play my CPS3 with plexi case, I put nothing under the CPS3 and a PS2 game under the HAS.
    • moltomolto wrote:

      I've had my HAS hanging off the JAMMA edge of my CPS2 board for a few months now, is this a serious problem? The HAS sits a little lower than the CPS2 so I can't really put them both flat. That is unless anyone has recommendations for CPS2 rubber feet?
      Definitely. Over time your board may develop issues due to the pressure of bending the connector down.

      Either get extension cables, or make your CPS2 board sit vertically so that the strain isn't bending the connector width-wise.
    • New

      opt2not wrote:

      moltomolto wrote:

      I've had my HAS hanging off the JAMMA edge of my CPS2 board for a few months now, is this a serious problem? The HAS sits a little lower than the CPS2 so I can't really put them both flat. That is unless anyone has recommendations for CPS2 rubber feet?
      Definitely. Over time your board may develop issues due to the pressure of bending the connector down.
      Either get extension cables, or make your CPS2 board sit vertically so that the strain isn't bending the connector width-wise.
      Glad I saw this. My HAS has been sitting flat with my CPS2 for nearly a month. Put a few books underneath to level it out.
    • New

      Very interested in the JAMMA extension cables.

      I have a question though, it looks like on the end that connects to the supergun it connects over CHAMMA with SHOT 1-6 all on the JAMMA edge. I see that there is a DIP switches to enable/disable those buttons on the JAMMA edge, but does the CPS2 connector have it's own independent wiring for the buttons that won't be disabled via the DIP switches? I figure that is the case but felt I should double check.

      Thanks!
    • New

      We had a LAN party at work a month back, and I can confidently say that a) the CPS2 is a glorious sight to behold on a 80" screen, b) multiplayer D&D and AvP are heaps of fun and c) you should totally buy a 3P4P adapter to go with your HAS.

      Seeing the expression on people's faces when you tell them that no, the big green box on the floor isn't, in fact, a computer running MAME, also made lugging all the kit halfway across town totally worth the trouble. :D
      Images
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      The post was edited 1 time, last by dr_myslihiiri ().

    • New

      Does anyone have a contact of someone whom can make an 8-pin Mini DIN (video out) to BNC RGBS cable? I've asked both Retro Access (no response, surprise surprise) and Retro Gaming Cables (whom don't offer this specific configuration).

      Ideally would like to ditch the SCART adapter, as my BVM has BNC inputs and don't need an additional connector in the flow from HAS to BVM.
    • New

      RGB wrote:

      The BNC cables are usually very thick and it might be problematic to assemble the 8pin mini DIN plug. However, if you really don't want to use any external cable adapters, then the HD-15 adapter for the HAS might do the trick for you, you'd just need a VGA->BNC cable.
      Is the HD-15 something you stock and can ship to me? Or do I need to wait until next HAS group?
    • New

      RGB wrote:

      I've just received this from the PCBWAY:



      This is my new JAMMA extension harness, an upgraded version of the 2016 JAMMA extension harness:
      • Clean design with solid copper planes and no unnecessary vias
      • JST VH and RA series of connectors
      • 60-65cm long
      • 2x16AWG for GND, 2x16AWG for +5V, 1x18AWG for -5V, 1x18AWG for +12V), 22AWG for everything else - all cables will be in black
      • Hard gold plated JAMMA edge contacts
      • DIP switch to enable/disable buttons 4, 5, 6 outputs on the JAMMA connector
      • Compatible with the HAS kick harnesses (and it doesn't require AUX harness between the HAS and the extension harness)



      Optional configuration:
      • Black plexiglass case (matte or semi transparent black)
      • CPS2 connector for buttons 4-6 input (only needed for superguns other than the HAS)
      • Voltmeter
      • Test and Service buttons
      • Amplified stereo audio input (Taito F3, Konami PCBs, etc.)



      Still waiting for the wiring, but once I receive that, I will begin assembly (up to 2 weeks max) and will offer these for sale. More details soon, but I can say that there should be enough harnesses for everyone interested, and it will be well-priced.
      Pre order open? if yes I need 4 with kick harness extender.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by nonosto ().