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hidaniel said:
Is it only freesync LCDs that are easy to match refresh rates on or would a gsync monitor work equally as well?
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IDK, buy one and tell us.
This "feature" (display syncs 40~75Hz) is never advertised/promoted as a selling point (even tho to us it totally IS).

I just dropped 421$ on a new LCD, and while I'm pretty sure its going to work with the OSSC IDk for sure.
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This is how we get information about what works and what won't, someone has to buy it and test it (no one else is doing this kind of work).
I will say in the last 2 years support (especially among 4k/QHD screens) has gotten much much better/less risky.

I love my LG B6, but as I mentioned it won't work with the OSSC+Midway directly.
The LG C9 (the very next model released the next year) will.
I spent 2,600$ on that TV bro, how do you think I feel about that?
You win some, you lose some and this hobby ain't never been cheap. :S
lupinko said:
I hope OSSC Pro can play nice with capture cards, stupid Elgato and Avermedia.
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Its the same issue man, capture cards won't accept really wacky syncs.
The OSSC Pro has lots of great features on the table/in discussion, but altering the sync rate IS NOT one of them.
You could buy my iScan DVDO, it will make the OSSC work with ANY monitor/capture card guaranteed (because it adjusts the rate to 60.0Hz no matter what the input). :whistling: ;)

Everyone who is saying shit like "oh why can't it just adjust the scan rate" don't understand how the OSSC works or what makes it so special.
It only adds 1ms of lag! Compare that with a device like the xRGB Framemister which adds 16ms of lag.
So how is it able to scale some 16 times faster? Because it has NO FRAME BUFFER PERIOD!
Why dose that matter? You can't alter the timing of motion without a place to store this motion first, no frame buffer = no timing adjustment.
But, no frame buffer means the near direct display of every frame at its original timing (all be it wacky/off spec).
 
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jassin000 said:
hidaniel said:
Is it only freesync LCDs that are easy to match refresh rates on or would a gsync monitor work equally as well?
Click to expand...
IDK, buy one and tell us.This "feature" (display syncs 40~75Hz) is never advertised/promoted as a selling point (even tho to us it totally IS).

I just dropped 421$ on a new LCD, and while I'm pretty sure its going to work with the OSSC IDk for sure.
Click to expand...
Nice choice on the LGGK650. I recently snagged the 850, which I believe is basically identical and it's worked great with the OSSC thus far--though I haven't tried with some of the weirder syncs.

Non-curved, 32" 1440p monitors seem to be a dying breed unfortunately (especially the freesync/gsync variety). I've even thought about getting another one ahead of the OSSC Pro release given how useful 1440p will be for both 240p and 480p with the introduction of the new 6x and 3x modes, respectively.

I'm definitely interested to hear how the 650 works with some of your more troublesome boards.
 
jassin000 said:
IDK, buy one and tell us.This is how we get information about what works and what won't, someone has to buy it and test it (no one else is doing this kind of work).
Click to expand...
I do have one. I'm trying to figure out if the OSSC would be worthwhile for me. Sorry for asking a question, you seemed to have knowledge regarding the topic so I thought I'd tap into that. I'll try not to make that mistake again.
 
It’s somewhere in this thread, but anyway I got Vampire Savior for CPS2 today, yay.

But now I run into the dropping input bug, nay. Lol

Edit: I’m just reading the posts via search. Don’t worry, unless someone wants to summarize it. I can’t believe I’ll need to bring scotch tape around with me to play this game. lol
 
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lupinko said:
It’s somewhere in this thread, but anyway I got Vampire Savior for CPS2 today, yay.

But now I run into the dropping input bug, nay. Lol

Edit: I’m just reading the posts via search. Don’t worry, unless someone wants to summarize it. I can’t believe I’ll need to bring scotch tape around with me to play this game. lol
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I'm not tracking what you are talking about, I thought HAS was designed to fix this issue?
 
You should be able to disable those inputs via a switch. Which version of HAS do you have?
 
I have version 4, but I don’t want to mess with the HAS. I’m not really the engineering type to do that kind of work based on what I’ve read in the manual. I also use the HAS for MVS, Atomiswave and Naomi. So I don’t want to disable buttons 4&5 because of the first two I mentioned.
 
V4 has a dipswitch does it not? You slide them ON or OFF to suit. You won't break anything. Less effort than taping the jamma pins.
 
The manual doesn’t indicate any dip switches for disabling said buttons, only this bit of info.

Disabling buttons 4 and 5 on the JAMMA connector
In order to disable button 4 and 5 output on the JAMMA connector, press and hold down the physical button 4 on the Player 1 controller (Player 1 DB15 pin #4) while powering on the HAS. Once the two status LEDs stop blinking, you can release the button 4. Button 4 and 5 outputs on the JAMMA connector will be disabled.

Side note: Another way to disable buttons 4 and 5 is to close the jumper “JP2”. You can do this by either running a jumper wire across the JP2 pads, or by installing a 2pin 2.54mm Gold Pin header (male) to the JP2 pads and attaching a jumper (the recommended method). This is method is only for advanced users, do not attempt it unless you have decent soldering skills.
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Even easier. Hold down one button on your controller whilst powering on. Guessing it's the same procedure to reverse.
 
I'm sure no one is going to want to do this... But far as I'm aware for games that use a 4th button on CPS2 its always input via the kick harness.
So, you in theory COULD cut the trace to CPS2's JAMMA edge pin for button 4 without causing harm to the system.
 
I guess, but it's still rather destructive, despite not disabling any functionality.

May as well just tape up the pins if you were considering that approach.

I wonder if one could design and 3D print a little jamma pin slip on cover, to block contact.

Best bet though is to disable it via the supergun if possible.
 
Frank_fjs said:
Best bet though is to disable it via the supergun if possible.
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Agreed (even tho the bug is contained within the CPS2 and I've always been taught to address problems at the root level).

You know... IF we had a smartiepants 68k assembly guy, he could find the offset and patch this bug out of the game once and for all.
I guess the side effect then is we would be using decrypted/null key (I like my ROMs OG/key'd).
 
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jassin000 said:
I'm sure no one is going to want to do this... But far as I'm aware for games that use a 4th button on CPS2 its always input via the kick harness.
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I found out the hard way that D&D:Tower of Doom uses the auxiliary 4th button on the JAMMA edge (just like one slot MVS boards).
 
jassin000 said:
I'm sure no one is going to want to do this... But far as I'm aware for games that use a 4th button on CPS2 its always input via the kick harness.
So, you in theory COULD cut the trace to CPS2's JAMMA edge pin for button 4 without causing harm to the system.
Click to expand...
Please don’t.... some games use the 4th button on the Jamma edge and use the kick harness only for player 3 and 4
 
PascalP said:
jassin000 said:
I'm sure no one is going to want to do this... But far as I'm aware for games that use a 4th button on CPS2 its always input via the kick harness.
So, you in theory COULD cut the trace to CPS2's JAMMA edge pin for button 4 without causing harm to the system.
Click to expand...
Please don’t.... some games use the 4th button on the Jamma edge and use the kick harness only for player 3 and 4
Click to expand...
A lot of beat em ups yeah. Anyway I’ll try disabling the buttons using the button mapping feature RGB put in. But I don’t mind using tape since Undamned and RGB (in addition to a buddy of mine who owns a cps2 who told me about the bug in the first place that reminded me of what I had read a long time ago which ultimately made me search for it on this forum) said that option should be fine. I don’t want to do any physical changes to the CPS2 or the HAS.
 
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I don’t own a HAS myself, but I would just create a jumper on those 2 pins as mentioned in the manual a few posts back.
Could even make it a toggle switch instead to easy flip b4 ON/OFF
 
Good to know, strange Capcom didn't unify input standards even among their own games on the same generation of hardware.
 
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