J
jassin000
As you should, DS nailed it! Like prob my 2nd fave multi I own (1st being CPS2).
I think people expect that HD15 works the same as SCART, only it also supports the F3... This isn't accurate.
- Thread starter RGB
- Start date
I think people expect that HD15 works the same as SCART, only it also supports the F3... This isn't accurate.
msamiullah
Enthusiast
Hello everyone. Just joined the crazy roll-coaster of Consolisized arcade boards. Recently got a MVS and now need a super gun and looks like HAS is one of the best. Can someone please let me know whats the process of placing an order, and if I am not wrong looks like orders are closed. Does anyone know when the orders will open ? thanks
AlxUnderBase
Enlightened
@msamiullah Hello there ! IMO the better way is to PM to the owner of this theard and he will tell you more ! Cheers !
msamiullah
Enthusiast
Awesome. thanks
welcome to the addiction. Your wallet will likely suffer.
msamiullah
Enthusiast
hahaha, true
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Attachments
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Actually it is safe to connect HAS (V3/V3.1 and fixed V2/V2.1) set to TTL. The CMOS CSync signal goes through in series 470R resistor and along with the 75R to GND on the FM/OSSC Scart side forms a voltage divider, so the signal will have ~0.688V amplitude. OSSC VGA port doesn't terminate the CSync (it goes directly to 74LVC2G17 for buffering), but it's a +5.5V tolerant input.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
J
jassin000
Set the Atomiswave to VGA/31hz, and set the OSSC to allow 2x scale on 480p, then set the output aspect ratio to 4:3.
Remember if you are using "passthrough" the OSSC cannot control the aspect, but your TV can (because thats whats actually processing the image) change from 16:9 to 4:3 on your TVs menu.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Thanks, but at 2x, I get a black screen.
J
jassin000
Try it from a fresh "reset" I think some of the pre/post coast settings could be a problem?
I don't have an Atomiswave, but this is how I do it for Naomi/Dreamcast (should be the same, how is H and V sync handled on Atomis when in 31khz mode? are you bypassing the HAS and connecting the Atomis VGA port directly to the OSSC?).
Last edited by a moderator:
XtraSmiley
Legendary
2 September 2018 HAS testing update, in the future I'll update this post vice making a new one:
At this time I have not needed to purchase a SCART cable to use with the OSSC at all. Please try my settings before spending an extra $20-25 on something you my not need. A small caveat is that you will not have a LPF in this scenario, resulting in very light image distortion most visible on solid backgrounds. See my note below about this. I will retest when I get my SCART cable.
I am using HAS 3.1, OSSC 1.6 FW .81, 8pin min DIN cable with the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC, with 3.5 audio cable for sound.
HAS 3.1 right side showing 8pin min DIN cable connection and 3.5mm audio cable. These two cables plug into the OSSC (see below). Note that on the HAS I have the jumper (JP2) 75 Ohm/TLL pulled off (meaning it is in TTL mode) and the Switch 1 (SW1) set to (B) Buffered for CSync.
OSSC 1.6 version. Left side when looking from top. HDMI cable out and 3.5mm audio cable into OSSC port "A3 IN" from the HAS.
OSSC 1.6 version. Right side when looking from top. 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC "V3 IN" port. 8pin min DIN cable plugged into it from the HAS. Lower cable is the OSSC power.
On OSSC the default setting for Pre/Post Coast is 1. You may have to set to something higher such as 4 to get a good sync for some games. I was able to get a sync on some games at 1 but I have read that others needed a 4 for the same game, so it could be odd tolerances between boards. Finally you must be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).
Atomiswave : Dolphin Blue, Metal Slug 6 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to off, get 480i passthrough, looks like shit, and you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to on, get 480p passthrough, looks much better but you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
Capcom CPS2 : Dungeons & Dragons Tower of Doom (Phoenix ROMs) =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Irem M72 : Dragon Breed =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off. Also, bottom layer of this games screen is cut off (score, lives, time layer) at the default settings. To see it you have to adjust the settings under Advance Timing Tweaker. I set Vertical Sync Length to 6, Vertical Backporch Length to 30, and Vertical Active Length to 240. This allows you to see the full bottom line information and graphics, however the top is now cut off a bit. You could cut back on my settings to see the numbers, giving up a little bit of the graphics but gaining back the top line. Your call how you rock this.
Irem M92 : Major Title 2, Ninja Baseball Bat Man =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
PGM : Demon Front, Espagaluda, The Gladiator, Oriental Legend, Photo Y2K, Photo Y2K 2 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Taito F3 : Elevator Action Returns =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega STV : Radiant Silvergun =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega System 16 : Altered Beast, ESWAT, Golden Axe, Shinobi =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Not having a SCART cable makes it so you can play all PCBs with one cable, and avoid having to change the TTL to 75R, which is hard because the jumper is under the plexi, but there is one issue, see below.
*****Low Pass Filter. The HAS uses a THS7316, which doesn't have a LPF (at the frequency we are using for Arcade Boards), but that is normally good because the OSSC has a built in LPF. What you never want is, more than one LPF, or no LPF, so we should be set right? Yes, except the OSSC VGA input that we are using via the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter doesn't have a LPF, so in essence, our feeds in this set up do NOT have a LPF at all, resulting in a picture that isn't as good as it could be. This is likely the reason I have some of the distortion I listed earlier below. Once I get my SCART cable, I'll post my results.******
The ONLY thing I think I noticed, and it's difficult to spot because you need a solid back ground and there is no way to pause arcade games, is that the images seem to have slight distortion in the solid back grounds. You can Google why LPF are important in old arcade/console image clarity to see some examples. It's not terrible, but I'll post more results when I get my SCART cable.
Anyway, a big thanks to RGB for the HAS, Jassin for his testing before hand that let me jump right into playing, and to James at JNX, who is always helping me get shit working!
At this time I have not needed to purchase a SCART cable to use with the OSSC at all. Please try my settings before spending an extra $20-25 on something you my not need. A small caveat is that you will not have a LPF in this scenario, resulting in very light image distortion most visible on solid backgrounds. See my note below about this. I will retest when I get my SCART cable.
I am using HAS 3.1, OSSC 1.6 FW .81, 8pin min DIN cable with the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC, with 3.5 audio cable for sound.
HAS 3.1 right side showing 8pin min DIN cable connection and 3.5mm audio cable. These two cables plug into the OSSC (see below). Note that on the HAS I have the jumper (JP2) 75 Ohm/TLL pulled off (meaning it is in TTL mode) and the Switch 1 (SW1) set to (B) Buffered for CSync.
OSSC 1.6 version. Left side when looking from top. HDMI cable out and 3.5mm audio cable into OSSC port "A3 IN" from the HAS.
OSSC 1.6 version. Right side when looking from top. 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC "V3 IN" port. 8pin min DIN cable plugged into it from the HAS. Lower cable is the OSSC power.
On OSSC the default setting for Pre/Post Coast is 1. You may have to set to something higher such as 4 to get a good sync for some games. I was able to get a sync on some games at 1 but I have read that others needed a 4 for the same game, so it could be odd tolerances between boards. Finally you must be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).
Atomiswave : Dolphin Blue, Metal Slug 6 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to off, get 480i passthrough, looks like shit, and you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to on, get 480p passthrough, looks much better but you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
Capcom CPS2 : Dungeons & Dragons Tower of Doom (Phoenix ROMs) =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Irem M72 : Dragon Breed =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off. Also, bottom layer of this games screen is cut off (score, lives, time layer) at the default settings. To see it you have to adjust the settings under Advance Timing Tweaker. I set Vertical Sync Length to 6, Vertical Backporch Length to 30, and Vertical Active Length to 240. This allows you to see the full bottom line information and graphics, however the top is now cut off a bit. You could cut back on my settings to see the numbers, giving up a little bit of the graphics but gaining back the top line. Your call how you rock this.
Irem M92 : Major Title 2, Ninja Baseball Bat Man =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
PGM : Demon Front, Espagaluda, The Gladiator, Oriental Legend, Photo Y2K, Photo Y2K 2 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Taito F3 : Elevator Action Returns =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega STV : Radiant Silvergun =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega System 16 : Altered Beast, ESWAT, Golden Axe, Shinobi =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Not having a SCART cable makes it so you can play all PCBs with one cable, and avoid having to change the TTL to 75R, which is hard because the jumper is under the plexi, but there is one issue, see below.
*****Low Pass Filter. The HAS uses a THS7316, which doesn't have a LPF (at the frequency we are using for Arcade Boards), but that is normally good because the OSSC has a built in LPF. What you never want is, more than one LPF, or no LPF, so we should be set right? Yes, except the OSSC VGA input that we are using via the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter doesn't have a LPF, so in essence, our feeds in this set up do NOT have a LPF at all, resulting in a picture that isn't as good as it could be. This is likely the reason I have some of the distortion I listed earlier below. Once I get my SCART cable, I'll post my results.******
The ONLY thing I think I noticed, and it's difficult to spot because you need a solid back ground and there is no way to pause arcade games, is that the images seem to have slight distortion in the solid back grounds. You can Google why LPF are important in old arcade/console image clarity to see some examples. It's not terrible, but I'll post more results when I get my SCART cable.
Anyway, a big thanks to RGB for the HAS, Jassin for his testing before hand that let me jump right into playing, and to James at JNX, who is always helping me get shit working!
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holaplaneta
Beginner
Does anybody know where I can get the files to 3D print a cover enclosure for the MWP-606 power supply? Something like this maybe?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876565
or this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1706456
Thanks!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876565
or this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1706456
Thanks!
J
jassin000
I was having some issues with video noise, so I made a new 8-pin mini-din to SCART cable (connecting the HAS to the OSSC)...
Only I didn't connect any audio pins (only Red, Green, Blue, Sync and one ground pin #1
in the SCART hood.
For Audio I ran a 3.5mm to RCA cable directly from the HAS to my iScan DVDO (reintegration into a single HDMI cable, as this setup uses the 1.5 OSSC without digital audio).
I also made sure I had solid continuity (multimeter) between the outside of the mini-din to the outside of the SCART (aka fully shielded) but without bridging to the ground/pin #18 (not sure if this matters because ground might be bridged internally?).
The resulting image was stunning/sharp AF!
Using the LPF and reverse LPF filter (which I believe was originally designed for SNES noise issues?) my Midway boards have never looked so good.
Only I didn't connect any audio pins (only Red, Green, Blue, Sync and one ground pin #1
in the SCART hood.
For Audio I ran a 3.5mm to RCA cable directly from the HAS to my iScan DVDO (reintegration into a single HDMI cable, as this setup uses the 1.5 OSSC without digital audio).
I also made sure I had solid continuity (multimeter) between the outside of the mini-din to the outside of the SCART (aka fully shielded) but without bridging to the ground/pin #18 (not sure if this matters because ground might be bridged internally?).
The resulting image was stunning/sharp AF!
Using the LPF and reverse LPF filter (which I believe was originally designed for SNES noise issues?) my Midway boards have never looked so good.
Last edited by a moderator:
