MOD HD CRT with RGB scart

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    • MOD HD CRT with RGB scart

      Dear Team,

      I wanted to know what the best solution is to get rgb out of a HD CRT is? The HD CRT I am talking about is the KV32HS420. I heard you can convert the component connection and the signal to rgb scart. I would prefer to mod the CRT with a rgb signal and install a female scart input. I don't know how to solder and would like to find someone who could help.

      What would you do to get rgb out of this CRT?
    • This Speciality-AV adapter is what you want...

      Very inexpensive SCART-to-Component adapter that is actually very high in quality.
      Just under the metal hood you've got a few adjustment pots for fine tuning the image as well.
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)

      The post was edited 1 time, last by jassin000 ().

    • darksofter wrote:

      Dear Team,

      I wanted to know what the best solution is to get rgb out of a HD CRT is? The HD CRT I am talking about is the KV32HS420. I heard you can convert the component connection and the signal to rgb scart. I would prefer to mod the CRT with a rgb signal and install a female scart input. I don't know how to solder and would like to find someone who could help.

      What would you do to get rgb out of this CRT?

      You're not going to get the result that you think you're going to get.

      Those HD CRTs are no different than LCDs in terms of how they handle signal processing. which means that even if you get a 240P RGB signal into it, it's still going to upscale the signal the same way an LCD would and you're going to get the same shitty scaling artifact that you would on an LCD and the same shitty lag that you would on an LCD.

      in-fact most of those HD CRTs are even WORSE in those regards compared to modern LCDs because the scaling tech was still new, unrefined and expensive, meaning it was fairly slow and the results left something to be desired.

      Something like what Jassin posted will get the job done every bit as well as an RGB mod would, but for the best quality result the solution is the same as it would be on an LCD... an OSSC or similar high end external scaler.


      If you want a CRT for retro games then pickup a Sony Trinitron that's NOT a "Hi-Scan. The non-hi-scan models can display low-res content natively... and a YUV transcoder like what Jassin posted is all you need to plug in RGB.

      the best model to get is the FV300 followed by the the FS120 and FS100
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      The post was edited 1 time, last by twistedsymphony ().

    • twistedsymphony wrote:

      in-fact most of those HD CRTs are even WORSE in those regards compared to modern LCDs
      This big time!
      If you are going to use a CRT, stick with SD tubes... NOT HD tubes!

      If you've got a HD tube TV you are actually WORSE off then if you own a modern LCD.
      A dead give away is any tube TV with a HDMI port, kill those with fire!
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)
    • I have a friend with a KD-34XBR960, and modern consoles on it look stunning (Xbox 360 2D shoot 'em ups especially), but SD content is ugly on it. I think it has some lag issues too, but nothing that stopped us from enjoying the modern arcade-style games.
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    • Hard to say, most (all the ones I've ever used) digital TV's will process the 240p like 480i, so it won't have a fixed scanline but rather a shifting "jitter" line that dances between A and B interlaced fields.
      Oh, just realized you are talking about 480p and above (720/1080/etc)? No sending a 480p signal will result in zero scanlines I promise you that.

      Think about what 15khz 240p scanlines really are for a moment, a void/absence of electron beam strike in the image field.
      Why is the beam "missing" or failing to strike?
      It's not, the firing pattern of the electron guns inside the cathode ray tube is altered, between cycles the gun strikes the same (double strike) line.

      In a 15khz 480i image, the electron gun strikes a different line between cycles...
      240 lines in a 480 line field A, the alternate 240 lines in the 480 line field B, resulting in an image that's 480 lines of interlaced A+B content.

      480p starts 31khz, where the electron guns move faster, and are now able to draw 480 lines in field A, AND 480 lines in field B.
      A true progressive image.

      Get the picture (pun-intended)? ^^
      Never a visible absence of strike in 480p... No scanline for you!


      I have often wondered if you could "hack" the 1080i mode of these digital tube TVs to display 540p with scanlines...
      That would be interlaced A and B alternating 1080 line fields with a double line strike between fields just like 240p in essence.
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)

      The post was edited 17 times, last by jassin000 ().

    • @darksofter your language is flawed, if the image on a CRT is using progressive it contains NO visible scanlines.
      240p IS a progressive mode, but via hackery... In actuality it is a interlaced mode where each strike is hitting the same line rather than alternating lines.
      The missing strike is the missing line, or scanline.
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)

      The post was edited 1 time, last by jassin000 ().