UD-USB Decoders

    • undamned wrote:

      slash wrote:

      Hey guys, quick question

      Has anyone had any luck using the new release of the PS4 pads (CUH-ZCT2U)? The ones with USB/Bluetooth options? The original ones (CUH-ZCT1U) work fine.

      Thanks!
      That's #1 on my firmware todo list. Not working at the moment, but thankfully it's the exception.-ud
      Awesome! Wanting to build something for some cool production stuff but the pad things is a bit of a speed bump :(
    • Hey undamned!
      I finally got my setup going recently: a CPS2 copy of VSAV, a Windy supergun, and two UD-USB decoders. Two sticks I have are a Hori RAP4 and a 360 TES+.
      So far, so good.

      But once I finally got everything in place, I was having an issue, and I think it was this same one as this:

      undamned wrote:

      @Niko & @tom5151, I think I know what's wrong w/ the signal that is stuck on always. Fix should be a simple firmware update. Basically in the last hardware revision, I made provision for future use of Pin 9 (whereas in previous versions it is not connected at all). My guess is that my firmware is always asserting that signal, since I'm not intentionally controlling it yet. I'll try to get that change made this weekend and post up. Sorry for the booboo. I'll detail later why I connected it in the first place :D
      In my case, the LK input was always listed in tests and in-game as held down, even when there was no controller connected, as long as the UD-USB was plugged in.
      Remapping the buttons didn't solve it, as it seemed to be the input rather than the button.
      So I did some searching, and found this thread and the beta firmware:

      undamned wrote:

      I did actually! See if this version fixes your (also paging @Niko) problem: drive.google.com/open?id=1Zv3ZUzdVaRRMRKJWnjxqjBSR7wH3ywqZ
      So I updated to 1.4b and tested it today. And I'm still having the issue, but a bit different.
      Now, the LK input is permanently 0 instead of 1, with the same problem that rebinding doesn't work to get around it.
      Both sides, both decoders, both sticks.
      I'd appreciate any help you could offer, would love to get this going :thumbup:

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Hangedman ().

    • Oops, forgot to get back to you on this! Windy pinout does not totally match mine (chart here: UD-USB Decoders). Are you plugging the decoders directly into the Windy?
      -ud
      Darksoft Multi(s): CPS2, CPS3, F3, ST-V /// CPS2 Game(s): 42/42
      Cab(s): Namco Exceleena 1 /// Monitor(s): Amiga 1080, IBM P260, BenQ RL2460
      Scan Converter(s): Micomsoft XRGB2+, Silicon Optix ImageAnyplace
    • I am, yeah. If using something intermediary would work, I can, but I got the enclosed USB decoders for convenience rather than the Screw Terminal version.

      I saw the chart but I wasn’t entirely sure how that’d affect me, I admit don’t fully understand the hardware side yet.
    • For what it's worth, Windy superguns didn't exist when I chose the pinout for my decoders. You can modify a PC style DB15 cable to rearrange for the Windy pinout, have someone else make one for you, or Windy actually makes their own little adapter board (probably on their site somewhere or hit them up on Twitter).
      -ud
      Darksoft Multi(s): CPS2, CPS3, F3, ST-V /// CPS2 Game(s): 42/42
      Cab(s): Namco Exceleena 1 /// Monitor(s): Amiga 1080, IBM P260, BenQ RL2460
      Scan Converter(s): Micomsoft XRGB2+, Silicon Optix ImageAnyplace
    • Hangedman wrote:

      Ah, so they do. And apparently Vampire Savior itself has a glitch that complicates this, too, so... guess I should’ve gone with the screw terminal version after all.
      Thanks for the help!
      Screw version wouldn't help, you just need a fingerboard inline to cancel the D button stack with the short kick. That would be the cleanest and most simple.
    • XianXi wrote:

      Hangedman wrote:

      Ah, so they do. And apparently Vampire Savior itself has a glitch that complicates this, too, so... guess I should’ve gone with the screw terminal version after all.
      Thanks for the help!
      Screw version wouldn't help, you just need a fingerboard inline to cancel the D button stack with the short kick. That would be the cleanest and most simple.
      Screw terminal version would indeed work. Windy has all 7 action buttons separated on the DB15 ports. So, one could wire up the screw terminal version to a DB15 connector, appropriately, as to avoid the stacking of K1 and D. Also, my pinout doesn't utilize pin 9 and Windy's does, so something needs to be done (rewired ext. cable or the like) to remedy that, not just the stacking issue.
      -ud
      Darksoft Multi(s): CPS2, CPS3, F3, ST-V /// CPS2 Game(s): 42/42
      Cab(s): Namco Exceleena 1 /// Monitor(s): Amiga 1080, IBM P260, BenQ RL2460
      Scan Converter(s): Micomsoft XRGB2+, Silicon Optix ImageAnyplace
    • daffy wrote:

      Do you have any European distributors ?
      No, but I can sell to you directly :)
      -ud
      Darksoft Multi(s): CPS2, CPS3, F3, ST-V /// CPS2 Game(s): 42/42
      Cab(s): Namco Exceleena 1 /// Monitor(s): Amiga 1080, IBM P260, BenQ RL2460
      Scan Converter(s): Micomsoft XRGB2+, Silicon Optix ImageAnyplace
    • The Spaniard wrote:

      Hey @undamned are these what was used on the ST cabs at Evo 2014 to allow USB sticks to be plugged in?

      If so , how was that setup achieved?
      Yes they were. Those were my cabs at Evo that year and the two years prior. The setup was pretty simple, in that I spliced the wire for each input on the Jamma & kick harness, so that one was connected to the USB decoder and the other to the control panels. The same setup still exists on those cabs and it's possible to use the control panel or plug in a USB controller if the player wants to use that instead.

      Did you attend those ST events?
    • BroadwayJose wrote:

      The Spaniard wrote:

      Hey @undamned are these what was used on the ST cabs at Evo 2014 to allow USB sticks to be plugged in?

      If so , how was that setup achieved?
      Yes they were. Those were my cabs at Evo that year and the two years prior. The setup was pretty simple, in that I spliced the wire for each input on the Jamma & kick harness, so that one was connected to the USB decoder and the other to the control panels. The same setup still exists on those cabs and it's possible to use the control panel or plug in a USB controller if the player wants to use that instead.
      Did you attend those ST events?
      Nice and nice cabs, no I wasn't at that event. I happened to notice this on the stream of that ST tourney that I've been watching recently.

      So all that needs to be done is duplicate the Control panel inputs? Were these wired up to the screw terminal version and did you use the extension harness to mount these outside? I wouldnt mind doing this to my NAC.
    • Thanks. There was a ton of effort all around that made this event possible and successful. Not the least of which was @undamned providing his excellent USB decoders. I wired up the screw terminal version exactly as you mentioned and undamned provided the extension USB cables w/LED, which I mounted on the sides of the H2H Astro City setup and the control panels of the New Versus City. I've seen a similar cable w/LED for sale somewhere, possibly at Paradise Arcade. Not sure exactly.
    • undamned wrote:

      BroadwayJose wrote:

      Not sure if it's been addressed anywhere but I saw that the Brook PCBs seem to need more than 6 buttons pressed for the button mapping process to work. It happened with several different sticks players used during a recent tournament I supported and all of the players (me included) have a Brook universal PCB installed. What happens is when we're in button mapping mode, the light continues to blink even after 6 buttons are pressed. If all 8 buttons are pressed, the blinking light goes away and the 6 buttons I want mapped work as expected. Is this something to be concerned about? Anything I can do to avoid this issue/behavior and make it work to where just the 6 necessary buttons I need mapped are required to be pressed?
      If you are talking about the screw terminal boards, "Manual v.1.0 (8 Button - October 2014)" covers this: udgametech.blogspot.com/p/firmware.htmlJ4 controls whether 6 or 8 button mapping. Remove jumper for 6 button.
      -ud
      Hey just wanted to give an update on this. Removing the jumper seemed to fix the previous issue. Didn't get a chance to try it out in a live tournament/session setting until this past weekend. All is well, no issues with button mapping or controller detection. Thanks boss!
    • @undamned

      THANK YOU for following and extending upon the Neo Geo controller pin assignment in a logical fashion. It's exactly the same as how I've designed my supergun which means I can safely direct people to your adapter and know it will work.

      Really irritates me that other supergun manufacturer's whom utilise the DB15 connectors for controller inputs all use a differing pinout.
    • New

      I have a DB15 version that was acting weirdly, up wouldn't work. At first I thought it was my supergun on 2P but I tried my other working UD-USB DB15 and it's working fine.

      Tried to update it on my PC, but unfortunately it wont detect and no light turns on. (Following the instructions with the button etc...)

      So it's pretty fried, I've opened it up and nothing looks bad to me. I've already purchased a replacement and I have no idea how it got fried, considering my supergun is a RGB HAS. Is there anything I could do to revive it? It's not the biggest deal but if there's something I could try then I'll have a spare for when I get another arcade setup.