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SNK-NEO-GEO

Enlightened
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Hello there.. I have a 25k7193 that is out of focus.. I looked on the back of the monitor which shows the focus button but that does not work.. I am looking for someone local to do a cap kit.. i would like to ask if a cap kit would fix that problem or if the problem can not be repaired... thanks for the input..
 
There isn't a focus "button" there's a focus knob.

What happens when you turn this knob? does the focus change? are you simply not able to turn it far enough in one direction to get the focus where it needs to be or does it simply have no effect at all? Do you see any cracking or leaking around the flyback (the large black component that the focus knob is attached to)?

A cap kit may or may not fix your issue, but it's generally the first step because without one it can be difficult to troubleshoot other issues.
Your chassis may need a new Flyback, and the answers to the questions above will give a better idea if one is needed?

You can think of the caps like the tires on your car, they need replacing after a while so if you're having problems it makes a lot of sense to take care of any overdue maintenance first before digging deeper.
 
Thanks for the feedback.. The focus nub turn one way completely out of Focus, the other way brings focus but not enough...I see one of the big cap leaking.. I will get someone to do the cap and fix it.. The only down side is that there is burn in on the tube but that will hold me until I can get a true CRT replacement and forget about it:)
 
focus issues are tough, it could just need a cap kit, it could need a new flyback, or it could be the tube itself. but caps first since they're the cheapest/easiest to replace. the fact that you can adjust it, just not far enough, gives me hope that it just needs some new caps.

As for caps leaking... if what you see is a white goo, that's just glue to keep vibrations from weakening the solder joints and totally normal. I don't know what you're actually seeing but a lot of people tend to assume this is a leaking cap when it's not.

A leaking cap generally has an convex (bloated) top and will leak an oily black substance on the board directly below it. If you see this black residue you NEED a cap kit sooner rather than later as that substance can eat away at the PCB and damage it beyond repair.
 
I got in touch with a local arcade tech.. he will stop by my place with a 25k7100 monitor with no burn in, take the old CRT out of the cab and install the new CRT for $400.. I was like "LET'S DO THIS":)
 
Damn $400 and he gets your old CRT too?

You probably could have driven to Coin Op Warehouse and picked up 2 nice CRTs for $400
 
wait... you're within driving distance of Coin Op Warehouse?!

yeah, you probably could pickup a burn free monitor there for $50
 
The problem is that I do not have that much free time.. It is more of a combiniance and I do not mind paying the money..

The monitor was changed but I am not really happy with the monitor.. The picture in the monitor does not stretch all the way out in my favorite game 1943 and there are a few small dins on the lower left corner. It is not a big deal but since my other monitors a super it is bothering the heck out of me. also there are discoloration on the tube.. The tech used a magnet coil and used it a few times but it never perfect. I went to eBay and order a magnet coil..

I reached out to the tech and he is willing to change the monitor but that would be a service call fee plus $95 an hour..that WG and CRT are differ and some do not stretch out the picture.

I asked for a Quote for fixing the original Chassis of the old monitor and just changing the CRT.. But then I thought about and asked the tech to disregard because..you know you can guess from here.. I will keep an eye for a monitor and replace the thing myself.. The tech is a nice guy and I do recomed him.. It was my fault for not taking the time to see the monitor in action and testing the monitor with my favorite game 1943:) lesson learned:) mission failed and no bonus stage.....to be continued:)
 
Most likely you have a broken flyback in your original chassis. I had the same problem. It's a fairly quick and cheap fix.
 
The picture in the monitor does not stretch all the way out in my favorite game 1943 and there are a few small dins on the lower left corner
I reached out to the tech and he is willing to change the monitor but that would be a service call fee plus $95 an hour..
after just having dropped $400 that's UN-fucking-acceptable.

... and some do not stretch out the picture.
also bullshit. while the K7000 series doesn't have a width adjustment pot you can adjust the width directly on the width coil.

it's much more tricky to do and it needs to be done with a wood or plastic adjustment tool (metal will cause a short) but any tech worth a damn would have no problem doing that, and honestly it's something that should have been done when installed.

first the shitty Time Crisis 3 tech and now this... where are you people finding these jokers?
 
thats why I'm doing monitor work myself. Also the reason i haven't advanced in restoring anything yet. It looks simple on video but I'm practically terrified of damaging my shit. Bought some cheap training kits so I can destroy those.
 
I emailed the tech to see if I can take out the current monitor and take it to him for a replacement and take my 1943 board to test the new monitor and I will take the new monitor and put it back in the cab.. I asked the tech if he can do this without a charge, no fee..

That will rule out the service call fee and his hourly rate.. But if I get no reply.. No big deal, I will just let it go and wait until something local pops up. Like a said..lesson learned..
 
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