Just a quick video I made today while removing the plastic tabs and pins to make my Taito F3 Motherboard region free for the Darksoft Multi. I know its probably obvious how to do it for most people but it might hopefully help some users on here who are not so confident on where to start.
Pinned Taito F3 Make Your Motherboard Region Free
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here is anther way I do. I use needle nose pliers(smaller head is better) to bend the little white piece and take it out. These connector pins on board are very strong and hard to break it.
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that looks very clean, do you 'twist' the plastic or do you 'wiggle' it till it breaks?
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I only slight wiggle the white plastic. It’s very fragile so no need to wiggle too much or hard. Don’t touch other pins when wiggling or you have to bend the pin back=)
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The nose plier method worked great for me. I grabbed the plastics, wiggled it a few times until it "clicked" and then just pulled it up. Managed to region modify my motherboard in 3-4 minutes total. My nose plier was a bit bigger, so i bent one pin on each side of the plastics, but it was easy to bend them back with a small screw driver. Thanks alberto1225!
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Wow, I made it a bit more complicated but I think it was because my plyers where very thin and didn't grab hard enough.
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Notices my connectors are a little diffrent.. So i'll post my youtube-vid too..
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I did it as well with a set of small plyers, took me 5 minutes and it looks very clean
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i tryed to use the dremel and just bent 5 pins. luckily they did not break, but i dont really know how to remove those thingsVideo: Framemeister XRGB mini with XSync-1 and XCapture-1 │ Sony BVM-D20F1E
DS: ST-V │CPS2 MultiKit │ CPS3 SuperBios
MB: MV-1B │ CPS1 │ CPS2 │ CPS3 │ ST-V │ Naomi II │ G-Net │ TTX2
SB: Street Fighter 1 (6 Button Edition)
Superguns: MK30 Adcap │ Arcadeforge MAK Strike│ RGB's HAS
Sticks: Madcatz TE2 │ 2x Capcom CPS │ 2x Neo Geo -
nio wrote:
i tryed to use the dremel and just bent 5 pins.
Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (HAS - Special Edition)
HighFlow: Acrylic Cases (M72, TMNT, T-Unit, Y-Unit)
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nio wrote:
i tryed to use the dremel and just bent 5 pins. luckily they did not break, but i dont really know how to remove those things
Grab the whole thing, wiggle a bit and it will break off.
I tried Dremel too, waay to dangerous -
alberto1225 wrote:
I only slight wiggle the white plastic. It’s very fragile so no need to wiggle too much or hard. Don’t touch other pins when wiggling or you have to bend the pin back=)
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I used a craft knife with a fine blade to shave the ends off the blocks, then cut the sides away from the end pins (so only the middle pin was surrounded by plastic) then used needle pliers to twist the block and it snaps clean away - 10 minutes tops for all eight blocks to be removed with no bent pins.
Had a faulty PB2 cart so I used the case to house the multi-pcb - just need to work out the best place to mount the LCD, currently I've stuck it on the top with double-sided tape.
As a bonus our local supermarket had some 16Gb Sandisk micro SD-cards priced at £3 each so I bought the four they had in stock (must have been incorrect as the same capacity in standard SD ones were £8)....
I also managed to pickup two more F3 motherboards with PB2 & PB4 carts from Yahoo Auctions Japan last month for $120 the pair - I noticed the two that finished this week went for $100 each.
Do I put the price hike down to the "Darksoft effect"? -
ok, so i ordered the correct dremel bit 7293 now. wish me luck, these darksoft kits become more and more complex to installVideo: Framemeister XRGB mini with XSync-1 and XCapture-1 │ Sony BVM-D20F1E
DS: ST-V │CPS2 MultiKit │ CPS3 SuperBios
MB: MV-1B │ CPS1 │ CPS2 │ CPS3 │ ST-V │ Naomi II │ G-Net │ TTX2
SB: Street Fighter 1 (6 Button Edition)
Superguns: MK30 Adcap │ Arcadeforge MAK Strike│ RGB's HAS
Sticks: Madcatz TE2 │ 2x Capcom CPS │ 2x Neo Geo -
nio wrote:
ok, so i ordered the correct dremel bit 7293 now. wish me luck, these darksoft kits become more and more complex to install
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The None-Dremel methode works we faster, cleaner and easier. DO NOT use a Dremel!!!Video: Framemeister XRGB mini with XSync-1 and XCapture-1 │ Sony BVM-D20F1E
DS: ST-V │CPS2 MultiKit │ CPS3 SuperBios
MB: MV-1B │ CPS1 │ CPS2 │ CPS3 │ ST-V │ Naomi II │ G-Net │ TTX2
SB: Street Fighter 1 (6 Button Edition)
Superguns: MK30 Adcap │ Arcadeforge MAK Strike│ RGB's HAS
Sticks: Madcatz TE2 │ 2x Capcom CPS │ 2x Neo Geo -
i just rocked the tabs back and forth with a thin pliers for a while and they came away cleanly. the plastic isn't brittle enough to 'snap', but it will come away if you grip it as close to the bottom of the socket as you can and work it. any pins that get knocked about when doing this can be straightened up afterwards. not sure why a dremel on it's own would work better, sounds like you would need a vice or a drill press to do a dremel job accurately, one slip of a handheld dremel and you could mangle the pins you want to keep IMHO.
idk, whatever works for You i guess. maybe try the rocker method first, and if that leaves any stubs in the way, tidy the stumps with a dremel or a craft knife or scalpel?OPEN 1,8,15 -
Shoot, I should have tried pliers. But it looked like a molded single piece. I guess the bits are just glued onto a stock connector?
Chisel soldering iron tip and an x-acto knife worked for me, but I did bend a few pins which I had to straighten out. Hoping I didn't botch it, need to test when I can.
Saw the dremel video. Honestly sort of thought it was one of those troll videos, like adding a headphone jack to an iPhone. -
on which Region A board does the multicart fit without modding?
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hardyhell wrote:
on which Region A board does the multicart fit without modding?
Mandatory for all region PCB’s
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