ST-V multicart game selector with LCD screen

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    • I have the exact same issues that djsheep has, just put it down and haven't touched it in a while. I'm more intermediate with this stuff, so unsure what to purchase and how to correct. I'll fire it back up (been a bit) and will validate the issue to be the same.

      @miisalo- is it alright if I PM you once I have those results? I'll certainly post here if we find anything different that's useful for the group. Thanks!
    • Hey @stt1 and @miisalo, happy to report I have the selector working! These were the parts changed:



      I bought the two 4066 chips from my local electronics store for a couple of bucks and replaced them with no luck. Then I ordered an Arduino Nano clone from eBay, programmed it, and all is working as intended. Total cost was $10 AUD ($7 USD).

      Note: I didn't want to risk the old 4066 chips in case they were the culprit in blowing the original Nano.

      Awesome work on the selector by the way, actually makes the multi a lot more functional and fun. I highly recommend it to anyone with this multi.
      Multis: CPS-1, CPS-2, CPS-3, F3, S16, ST-V, MVS, M72, G-Net, Naomi, TTX2
      PVMs: 2043MD, 20M2MDA, 20L2MD
      Devices: Sentinel Gold / Ultracade uVC / JAMMAizer! / XRGB-mini
      PCBs: VAPS Profile
    • noonan2678 wrote:

      I have the exact same issues that djsheep has, just put it down and haven't touched it in a while. I'm more intermediate with this stuff, so unsure what to purchase and how to correct. I'll fire it back up (been a bit) and will validate the issue to be the same.

      @miisalo- is it alright if I PM you once I have those results? I'll certainly post here if we find anything different that's useful for the group. Thanks!

      Pretty simple to fix: the display module is in sockets, just raise it up from the board. Those 4066 chips are socketed too, you'll find them when the display module has been removed. Just be sure that you'll put the 4066s correct way to the sockets - if you need a picture, I can take one next week. Then install the display back. And finally replace the arduino, it's in sockets too.

      Last phase: get the new arduino programmed.

      Important - before you connect the PC via USB to arduino for uploading the software, remove all connections between the multicart/ST-V board and selector.
    • stt1 wrote:

      Important - before you connect the PC via USB to arduino for uploading the software, remove all connections between the multicart/ST-V board and selector.
      I am unsure I did this when I programmed it. Is it dangerous? The ST-V wasn’t powered on though.
      Multis: CPS-1, CPS-2, CPS-3, F3, S16, ST-V, MVS, M72, G-Net, Naomi, TTX2
      PVMs: 2043MD, 20M2MDA, 20L2MD
      Devices: Sentinel Gold / Ultracade uVC / JAMMAizer! / XRGB-mini
      PCBs: VAPS Profile
    • Should not matter with the signal (flat cable) or the reset. But power wire is important. When you connect the USB, it powers up the whole selector and there is also +5V on the power line, which goes to ST-V board as well if the wire is connected... The end result may be something unwanted as the ST-V board tries to boot as well.

      Another way around is taking the arduino off from the socket when programming it.
    • Argh. I forgot and was too eager to try so just quickly programmed the arduino.

      But it seems the ST-V motherboard is fine. I pulled the 5v from the pins beside where the selector is mounted. Hope I didn’t do any damage :/

      I was wondering actually why the screen was so high / low in contrast when I was programming though!
      Multis: CPS-1, CPS-2, CPS-3, F3, S16, ST-V, MVS, M72, G-Net, Naomi, TTX2
      PVMs: 2043MD, 20M2MDA, 20L2MD
      Devices: Sentinel Gold / Ultracade uVC / JAMMAizer! / XRGB-mini
      PCBs: VAPS Profile
    • Some good news: most of the parts have arrived. Waiting anymore a package with sockets (LCD and Arduino) to arrive. PCBs arrived too (or at least a package, didn't have time yet to check if they sent a brick ;) ). I have some sockets left from the previous batch, so I'll start tonight with putting 1-2 selectors together and then test all arrived arduinos + LCD units for knowing if all are fine. Most likely this test is over Tuesday or Wednesday night.

      As soon as I have something to send out (late this week/early next), I'll contact the first persons who pre-ordered selector from this batch. Hopefully the missing sockets will arrive soon that I can complete all boards...
    • Another update:

      Today I built an Ikea furniture with my wife... Ahem... :D ;)

      SO, this week I have soldered so far together approx. 250 components. Only 1 complete board ready as I miss-looked the amount of sockets (had few other more than the other type). Anyway, that one was just enough for testing all the arrived displays and arduinos. Some pins were pretty bent due to bad packing in China, but eventually all turned to be working this time.

      Bad news is that the 150 socket package is still on it's way.

      Good news is that I will get some sockets borrowed from miisalo tomorrow and can finalize first boards during next week. After final testing I have first set ready to be sent.
    • noonan2678 wrote:

      I have the exact same issues that djsheep has, just put it down and haven't touched it in a while. I'm more intermediate with this stuff, so unsure what to purchase and how to correct. I'll fire it back up (been a bit) and will validate the issue to be the same.

      @miisalo- is it alright if I PM you once I have those results? I'll certainly post here if we find anything different that's useful for the group. Thanks!
      Sorry, I somehow missed this. You can pm me.

      And one thing to everyone. Always take out the arduino from the board when programming just to be sure. And remember to put it back to right position (socket is 32 pin and arduino 30) or at least remove connections to the multicart, especially the power. If power is connected to the board or multicard, usb is basically powering the whole st-v board through arduino, there is only one diode between VUSB and +5V. This can lead to very unexpected results. Voltage drops, voltage can even spike, flash writes might fail etc.




      djsheep wrote:

      Hey @stt1 and @miisalo, happy to report I have the selector working! These were the parts changed:



      I bought the two 4066 chips from my local electronics store for a couple of bucks and replaced them with no luck. Then I ordered an Arduino Nano clone from eBay, programmed it, and all is working as intended. Total cost was $10 AUD ($7 USD).

      Note: I didn't want to risk the old 4066 chips in case they were the culprit in blowing the original Nano.

      Awesome work on the selector by the way, actually makes the multi a lot more functional and fun. I highly recommend it to anyone with this multi.
      Good to hear. As we debugged, the there was dead arduino pin(s) so you anyway needed the arduino, but it was wise to also replace 4066s as they could have been culprits by draining too much power from IO pin.
    • Argh. I so "love" the non-steady quality of these components.

      Some issues detected last night during final testing. Seems like something wrong in the display buttons/resistors/voltage level, buttons do work a little bit odd way on at least two boards out from tested five. Need to take a closer look and test more before sending any of these out.
    • Got these debugged. Another LCD bent up partly from socket, after re-seating it I could not reproduce the problem anymore. Another display unit is clearly faulty, board worked just fine when I replaced it...

      So, I have now five units tested and ready to go (and three more built ready & waiting the final test run). I just sent messages for having a shipping address and calculating the final prices for 7 first people I have in my pre-order list.

      Don't worry if no E-mail/PM yet. I shall continue next week putting these things together and testing. Just now I'll put my effort getting the first ones packed and sent out.
    • New

      Hi,
      receive today. thanks stt :-).
      here is my composition :
      drive.google.com/open?id=13fLMRDU9XhY1L5CAOvpBHFaqP4VzBfKk


      in my case,some connectors will be neeed to complete wiring! like here :
      c1.staticflickr.com/1/675/21319278404_37bfa91323_c.jpg

      Two stupid questions from a novice man :D :
      1- Where can i find a grey connector to link lcd board to multi-stv ? on ebay?
      2- do i change something on games stored on memory card ? i'm using this compilation :
      STV Roll-Up Pack: All roms for the Darksoft STV Multi Kit



      Thanks for your help

      have a good day