Blast City Nanao 2930 Recap kits

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    • I've just ordered 6 cap kits from Ian Kellogg he has a pretty good reputation in the restoration world. Has a lot of kits and uses top quality caps.

      Definitely worth checking out. He has a kit for your chassis.

      iankellogg.com
      Cabs: Namco Noir x 4, Namco Noir Clone x 2, Namco Exceleena x 7, AW Super Sports Shooting USA,Time Crisis II 2P, 6P X-Men, Battle Gear 2 2P and 4P Gauntlet. My partner is not impressed. :/

      KLOV Bio Link
    • kingcar wrote:

      Any of you ever tried these cap kits
      Those are sold By Syracuse Semiconductors. They been in the electronics parts business since the early 90s and I've used their kits few times; they're good.

      you can order from them directly here: syracusesemiconductors.com/

      Their physical store is actually about a 45 minute drive from me. :)

      I can't vouch for the accuracy of the Nanao 2930 kit specifically though as I've never rebuilt one of those.
      "Information wants to be free"
      VOOT | RFM | Kraylix V3 | FiF Jr. | KI2 | UMK3 | E29 | E29| TOTD | DDR
      Follow my projects on Instagram: instagram.com/twistedchu

      Buy my 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
    • Installed the Kit yesterday.
      I let the Machine run for 1-2 hours after the install, seems to be doing fine.

      The Bipolar caps are missing in this capkit (see the blue marked Caps on A&O Wiki)btw. I suggest you buy those on iankellog's site to have them all.

      Was a real pain in the ass to do the job but I'm happy I did it. In 2 weeks I have to do it again on my other Blast.....yay.....
    • kingcar wrote:

      Installed the Kit yesterday.
      I let the Machine run for 1-2 hours after the install, seems to be doing fine.

      The Bipolar caps are missing in this capkit (see the blue marked Caps on A&O Wiki)btw. I suggest you buy those on iankellog's site to have them all.

      Was a real pain in the ass to do the job but I'm happy I did it. In 2 weeks I have to do it again on my other Blast.....yay.....
      Nice, got any before and after pictures? Will you be recapping the PSU as well?
      Darksoft: CPS2, ST-V, F3
      RGB: HAS v2.1
    • My friend took some pictures during the process. Was a big help, always double checking my steps and work.
      Regaring PSU I was thinking of doing it this winter. On one of the Machines, since one of the PSU has been repaired 3 years ago.

      The Second one needs also a new Transistor C5244 and needs Voltage to be adjusted as well. But unfortunatly I couldn't find any info about the pot that is for voltage. anybody got a clue on that?
      The Manual only has info about the ones for Color adjustment. But there are some more on the back side (flyback area).
    • kingcar wrote:

      My friend took some pictures during the process. Was a big help, always double checking my steps and work.
      Regaring PSU I was thinking of doing it this winter. On one of the Machines, since one of the PSU has been repaired 3 years ago.

      The Second one needs also a new Transistor C5244 and needs Voltage to be adjusted as well. But unfortunatly I couldn't find any info about the pot that is for voltage. anybody got a clue on that?
      The Manual only has info about the ones for Color adjustment. But there are some more on the back side (flyback area).
      Thanks for the pictures and congrats on the successful capkit replacement. Usually you can find some clues printed on the PCB itself. I'd say examine the PCB carefully and watch for Voltage Regulation related text. I have never had to set voltages, hopefully some one here, with experience will lend a hand.
      Darksoft: CPS2, ST-V, F3
      RGB: HAS v2.1
    • kingcar wrote:

      My friend took some pictures during the process. Was a big help, always double checking my steps and work.
      Regaring PSU I was thinking of doing it this winter. On one of the Machines, since one of the PSU has been repaired 3 years ago.

      The Second one needs also a new Transistor C5244 and needs Voltage to be adjusted as well. But unfortunatly I couldn't find any info about the pot that is for voltage. anybody got a clue on that?
      The Manual only has info about the ones for Color adjustment. But there are some more on the back side (flyback area).
      Good stuff! Nice work on the cap kit. Should be a LONG time before you have to do it again.

      What symptoms led you to changing it? Any before pics? The after looks good, reminds me of the picture quality from my MS2933 Blast.

      I need to get around to working on my MS2930 cab at some point, the image is kind of washed out and out of focus. The focus issue I can probably adjust via the pot on the flyback, but the chassis itself is extremely grimy and has the black goop. Part of me is tempted to just put a different chassis in for now and give the old one a good washing / cap kit, though I'm not sure if the tube needs to be rejuvenated as well.

      It's always scary pulling these monitors out to work on them though, I'm extremely afraid of necking a tube or electrocuting myself. Fortunately the one time I had to do a chassis swap (on the 2933) worked out great.
    • kuze wrote:

      I need to get around to working on my MS2930 cab at some point, the image is kind of washed out and out of focus. The focus issue I can probably adjust via the pot on the flyback, but the chassis itself is extremely grimy and has the black goop. Part of me is tempted to just put a different chassis in for now and give the old one a good washing / cap kit, though I'm not sure if the tube needs to be rejuvenated as well.
      If you have a rejuvenator with a "clean" mode (lower power than rejuvenate) it can definitely sharpen focus (if the issue is indeed the tube). Could be caps also. You just never know until you do one or the other first. The thing about messing with the tube is it throws off your color settings, so it's not much less of a PITA than doing caps.
    • streetfighterken wrote:

      kuze wrote:

      I need to get around to working on my MS2930 cab at some point, the image is kind of washed out and out of focus. The focus issue I can probably adjust via the pot on the flyback, but the chassis itself is extremely grimy and has the black goop. Part of me is tempted to just put a different chassis in for now and give the old one a good washing / cap kit, though I'm not sure if the tube needs to be rejuvenated as well.
      If you have a rejuvenator with a "clean" mode (lower power than rejuvenate) it can definitely sharpen focus (if the issue is indeed the tube). Could be caps also. You just never know until you do one or the other first. The thing about messing with the tube is it throws off your color settings, so it's not much less of a PITA than doing caps.
      Thanks, good to know. You mean the rejuve throws off colors? I swapped in a 2933 chassis in place of a busted 2931 chassis/tube and the colors were perfect without tweaking, though geometry needed a tad fixing up. Maybe I was just lucky.
    • kuze wrote:

      kingcar wrote:

      My friend took some pictures during the process. Was a big help, always double checking my steps and work.
      Regaring PSU I was thinking of doing it this winter. On one of the Machines, since one of the PSU has been repaired 3 years ago.

      The Second one needs also a new Transistor C5244 and needs Voltage to be adjusted as well. But unfortunatly I couldn't find any info about the pot that is for voltage. anybody got a clue on that?
      The Manual only has info about the ones for Color adjustment. But there are some more on the back side (flyback area).
      Good stuff! Nice work on the cap kit. Should be a LONG time before you have to do it again.
      What symptoms led you to changing it? Any before pics? The after looks good, reminds me of the picture quality from my MS2933 Blast.
      I had some convergence issues in the corners and the focus was a bit blurry so I decided to just change the caps completly instead of just adjusting colors and convergence.
      Something I noticed though, there is some kind of "flickering" that rests for about 5minutes, and as soon as the monitor is warm it's gone. I will recheck my solder joints when I dismantle the other machine, just to make sure.

      Regaarding pictures: Maybe you can find a picture in my archive, I just didn't think of taking a picture before.
      But on the 1st picture here you get the idea of the curve I mentioned for the other machine.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by kingcar ().

    • XeD wrote:

      I feel your pain. 29 caps take some time to do. That look like a very clean board no black goop from the
      There are 52 or 53 caps to change. XD

      If there is somebody reading this, who has a project like this on nanao 29-30, behold of Cap no C211. This sucker was very hard to get out on both Boards. Fortunatly there are visible traces so you can track down connection easily.
    • kingcar wrote:

      XeD wrote:

      I feel your pain. 29 caps take some time to do. That look like a very clean board no black goop from the
      There are 52 or 53 caps to change. XD
      If there is somebody reading this, who has a project like this on nanao 29-30, behold of Cap no C211. This sucker was very hard to get out on both Boards. Fortunatly there are visible traces so you can track down connection easily.
      haha you are correct. My kit had 59 + I change the filter cap. I did so many of those I think my brain just made up a number