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Tekken 2 / Namco System 11 - Recap

SmokeMonster

SmokeMonster

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I was hoping that a recap would clear up some video noise on this System 11/Tekken 2 (Version B) board that I recently picked up. The recap didn't help, but afterwards I was adjusting the "video level" pot on the top board and realized that turning it up and turning down my scaler's brightness gave a really nice picture. (Update: I've also posted my Tekken Tag Tournament and Tekken 3 Restorations)

I was expecting this game to be crap based on the reviews that I read, but it's actually stellar. I've already tracked down Tekken 3, which is what I remember playing in the arcades. You can find Tekken 2 for pennies and I highly recommend it.

I recapped the System 11 board in no time with Rubycon, Panasonic, and Nichicons. I also replaced the thermal compound on the two heatsinks with Arctic Silver. I also replaced the original PCB battery with a replaceable cr2032, mounted horizontally.
_DSC2436_2.jpg

There are 6 more 100uF caps under the daughter boards.

_DSC2439_2.jpg

Recapping made no noticeable difference, but I'm happy to now have higher-rated 105C long-life caps surrounding the main heat sink.

20151002_225804_2.jpg

Crappy mobile shot of the title screen.
 
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Mitsurugi-w said:
Wait. Someone said Tekken 2 was crap??? Must be some younger gamers that don't know shit about shit....
Click to expand...
Yeah, and people seem to denigrate System 11 in general, as if being PS1 hardware is a bad thing. PS1 had decent horsepower and Tekken 2 sings on iti. By System 12 they were doing really amazing stuff with the platform.

If you want a Tekken 2 board, cnlmoore at KLOV is practically begging someone to buy his other board for $32/shipped. That's who I bought mine from--both of his are the updated Version B revision.
 
I've had one in my collection since '99 but someone should get it if they don't already.
 
wheres the video level adjustment? Only thing i can see on my board that might be it is rv70
 
Here are the before pictures (before cleaning/recapping/fixing):
1.jpg
1.jpg


Untitled.png


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Did you keep a list of cap values?
After examinating my Tekken 2 board, it appears to be missing a few caps as well...
(Board work fine though...)
 
I didn't record them, but I can tell you what any cap is if you shoot me a picture of the PCB with the missing caps.
 
Ok, will do!

Also one cap has the solder pad ripped off, so if you could check where that connects to so I can run a jumper wire?
 
Here are some pics, especially C2 and C18

https://imgur.com/a/Wfo3Y

I can tell the bigger ones are 100uF 6V right?
But what about the smaller ones? 10uF 16V?
 
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Below is a map of your caps.

I think this is how you repair that trace. Could someone confirm this? I would use a multi-meter for you, but I'm in Brazil and my board is in the US.
PascalP_trace.jpg
Tekken2PascalP-2.jpg

 

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Mitsurugi-w said:
Wait. Someone said Tekken 2 was crap??? Must be some younger gamers that don't know shit about shit....
Click to expand...
The Tekken series didn't really do anything for me until Tekken 3 which was a huge step forward and modern Tekken games are based on that game. IMO 3D fighting games don't age well at all and there's no reason to play past versions. :)
 
@SmokeMonster which ratings do you look for when ordering caps?

I did search for these specs;
- Nichicon, Panasonic or Rubycon
- Capacitance (e.g. 100uF)
- Temp 105C
- Radial through hole

I did check on RS components and a lot of caps have 1000hr lifetime and only a few have 5000hrs or more at 6x the price of the 1000hr ones?
Also I did find that series like Panasonic FR state 'not suitable for automotive'?
Any particular series you search for or avoid?
 
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That's a perfect list. I look for all of those, plus Panasonic and Vishay/Sprague, Illinois Capacitor and Elna (only from Digikey, since 100% on eBay are fake).

Yes, long-life caps cost a lot more, but they're usually my preference. In reality, a cap rated at 1-2,000 hours is essentially immortal in a gaming console, since those hours are expectations at 105C I believe, and we aren't even half that most of the time.
 
I did check my bottom board, but caps look fine, gonna replace them anyway ;)

Only the reading on the 2 small ones in the audio section don't make sense (marked gray), they read 2.2 d35
So this would mean? 2.2uF and ??v
 

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