Monitor clicking, not always turning on / picture questions - Toshiba Tri-sync

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    • Monitor clicking, not always turning on / picture questions - Toshiba Tri-sync

      Hi All,

      I've just gotten a New Net City cabinet and I'm trying to get things up and running. I'm trying to figure out some monitor issues, and I'm pretty new to this, so any and all help is appreciated.

      I've noticed that after the cabinet has been sitting the monitor does not like to power on during the first and sometimes second/third power cycle of the cab.

      Sometimes I'll just hear clicking coming from the monitor, sometimes just a few, other times repeatedly, like so: youtube.com/watch?v=xYNaomNWhQg

      Any ideas as to what the issue might be? I imagine something has to be re-capped or replaced, I'm hoping that it's not a sign of something too catastrophic.

      Usually after 2-4 power cycles the monitor will come on. There are seemingly some convergence issues that I think I can adjust, however I notice some alignment issues, as well the picture in the lower right corner "bending in" as it approaches the bottom.

      I've tried to capture this in pics: imgur.com/a/jPXWP
      It's mostly obvious on the Dreamcast image.

      Is this something I can remedy with the default adjustments available for that monitor, and if so, what should I be adjusting? Or is this something in the extended settings I would need to mod the remote board for?

      Thanks for looking and any help you can provide!
    • sorry to hear that you are having issues with the monitor.. I am also having monitor troubles and let me tell you, it is not fun at all because I am also new to the tech.. A lot of people helped here on the forum but the thing is since I am non-technical, there is not much that I can actually do no the monitor.. We need a session in this forum with TRUSTED local tech in our area or people willing to provide a service for a fair fee and are competent and do the work right.. During my monitor's trouble, what I have found out so far is that, not everyone knows how to work on Candy monitors and it is hard to get a local tech. I can only think of one tech in my area and he will be my last option because he is one expensive beast, seriously this guy looks like a bear 8o ..but the end result in my case will be that I will need to ship the chassis to someone that can repair it. Good luck man and I hope that you can resolve the issues with the monitor..
      The Future Is Now
    • Just to follow up, I finally got around pulling the cabinet apart to get a better look at what's going on. It definitely seems like something wrong with a component on the chassis board.

      It may be that a cap kit is whats needed, but the clicking noise makes me think something else is up. Before I go the cap kit route I'd be interested if anyone else has any other ideas. Thanks again.

      Pics:
      imgur.com/a/oYYND

      Video:
      Successful start after a few prior attempts: youtube.com/watch?v=N0SHtFda_OA

      Unsuccessful start on cold startup: youtube.com/watch?v=cGmgM0QdXmg
      Successful start after several power cycles over almost 10 minutes: youtube.com/watch?v=-w2bdlAmawc
    • clicking sound is usually a bad flyback... your Caps look like they're in good shape, it can't hurt to replace them but I don't think it will fix your issue.

      you could also have some cold solder joints somewhere that is leading to your clicking issue.
      Buy 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
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      Games: VAPS | VOOT | UMK3 | RFM | Vewlix | FiF Jr. | KI2 | E29 | Net City | DDR | Flash Beats
      Wanted | For Sale/Trade
    • Thanks for the feedback. I guess I have some research to do as far as potential flyback/HOT replacements. I'll have to pull the board to look for cold solder joints. This is first go-around with working on a monitor (and my solder skills are pretty remedial), so it's all a bit daunting. Thanks for the replies and insight!
    • nice catch... definitely replace that.

      here's the basics on how to pull a monitor chassis if you've never done it:

      Read-up/watch videos on how to discharge your monitor. its easy and on a modern CRT like these it's quite safe as they have automatic discharge circuitry for when the monitor is off, it's still recommend you discharge it manually anyway in-case that circuit isn't functioning properly. you'll need a large screw driver and an alligator clip/jumper. John's arcade has a good video on this.

      after that it's just a matter of taking photos of all the connectors (so you know where everything goes), removing them and then unclipping/unscrewing the boards from the frame.

      In general you'll need to remove these:
      1. [after discharging] the large high voltage wire on the back of the tube (very large red wire, though often looks black from being caked with dirt, ends in a suction cup)
      2. the ground wire (single thick black) that connects from the neck board to the tube ground. on some monitors this is a connector on the neck board, on some the connector is mid-way down the wire, and on some older monitors this is hardwired and needs to be cut mid-way (and then re-attached later using a wire nut or crimp on your own shielded connector)
      3. the Degauss connector - this is usually a 2 pin connector (red/white or white/white or black/black or red/black, there's no real standard) that goes from the main board to degauss coil around the outside of the tube
      4. the yoke connector(s) - sometimes one 4-pin connector, sometimes two 2-pin connectors, (red, blue, yellow, and green wires) . these connectors go from the main chassis to the yoke around the neck of the tube. Take very close note as to the orientation or location of these connectors as they can be put in backwards or plugged into the wrong location on the chassis.
      5. AC power connector to the main chassis... usually 2 (black/white) or 3 (black/white/green) wires, sometimes the earth ground (green) is separate and attached with a ring terminal.
      6. the Video input connector to the main chassis - usually 5 or so thin wires (red, green blue, black, white)
      7. the remote board connector - if the chassis has a separate "adjustment" pcb that's not attached to the main chassis you may want to disconnect that. some monitors don't have this and others you can leave it connected

      Once all of that is disconnected you can gently pull the neck board off the back of the tube. it should pull straight off, just be gentle. rocking the neck board back and forth a little bit can help. You'll want to leave this connected to the main PCB if possible.

      After that figure out what screws you need to free up the main board from the frame and remove that. check for any other still attached wires before pulling it out.
      Buy 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
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    • Personally I would recap it before bothering to try and narrow down your issue any further than you have. It'll be a lot harder to diagnose what's wrong if potentially failing caps are also in the mix.

      The cap that is split won't be in a cap kit as those are almost always only radial caps, so you'll have to order it separately. You'll probably need to get the info off of the split cap you remove because there doesn't appear to be a service manual for this guy on the AO wiki (though there's some other useful info there).
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.
    • Got the board pulled. No legible value on the cap, but some searching yielded this:

      neo-arcadia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56345

      So in case anyone else ever runs into this problem, the cap value for ceramic disc capacitor C808 on the Toshiba D29CQ51 (PB9929) appears to be 4.7nF/1000V

      I'll post back after the re-cap.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by superboredom ().

    • Thanks for all the replies! After pretty much a complete re-cap the monitor is back to life. Pretty relieved. Would anyone have any advice on fixing a geometry issue with the monitor. I've modded the remote board, but I'm not sure what setting I should be messing with.

      You can see the cross pattern here: imgur.com/a/2zZr2

      There are some convergence issues which I'll look at at some point. For now what I can't seem to figure out how to best address is the bottom corners of the monitor curving inwards toward the center.

      Any ideas? Thanks for all the help!
    • superboredom wrote:

      Thanks for all the replies! After pretty much a complete re-cap the monitor is back to life. Pretty relieved. Would anyone have any advice on fixing a geometry issue with the monitor. I've modded the remote board, but I'm not sure what setting I should be messing with.

      You can see the cross pattern here: imgur.com/a/2zZr2

      There are some convergence issues which I'll look at at some point. For now what I can't seem to figure out how to best address is the bottom corners of the monitor curving inwards toward the center.

      Any ideas? Thanks for all the help!
      Honestly it looks pretty good as-is, I probably wouldn't mess with it because you may just make things worse.