Taito F3 Multigame

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    • waiwainl wrote:

      funkycochise wrote:

      In mu opinion, the solution applied for the Multi CPS2 is the best I've seen and used by far.
      Using a separate LCD screen, independent from the original is the way to go.
      It allows the original system to behave like an original cartridge, allowing you not have to choose a game every time you boot up.

      It's a killer feature from my point of view, and more accurate to the original.
      a game screen selection on the system has its benefit but in a regular home usage, it makes you come in the "what I am gonna play today ?" issue.
      plenty choice ruins the pleasure of unique single game forced choice you've got when you owned the original.

      So the LCD screen is a good compromise between choice and respect to the original way of gaming.
      Agreed. Too much easy choice kills lengthy gaming.
      I also love the LCD screen approach to controlling the multi.

      You know I have the Everdrives, Chinese X-in-One MVS carts, GDEmu and a dedicated MAME box. The menu system on load, while handy for game selection... Totally kills that "power-up and play right now" quick gaming session feel of originals!

      I think Krizz handled the menu problem best with press START to load last game feature, no way to bypass the menu completely however.

      Its perfect with GDEmu minus the LCD screen...
      If you want a menu system place GDMenu *.cdi in directory 01, If not just place a game *.gdi or *.cdi in the 01 directory.
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)
    • jassin000 wrote:

      I think Krizz handled the menu problem best with press START to load last game feature, no way to bypass the menu completely however.
      Another thing to keep in mind is that certain 2in1 Jamma Switchers (like the nice Mike's Arcade one) don't play well with the "hold start x amount of seconds" to bring up the menu screen stuff that MVS multi-carts use. This is because the switcher uses a P1 Start+P2 Start button press to switch between the games.
    • I want one!
      Video: Framemeister XRGB mini with XSync-1 and XCapture-1 │ Sony BVM-D20F1E
      DS: ST-V │CPS2 MultiKit │ CPS3 SuperBios
      MB: MV-1B │ CPS1 │ CPS2 │ CPS3 │ ST-V │ Naomi II │ G-Net │ TTX2
      SB: Street Fighter 1 (6 Button Edition)
      Superguns: MK30 Adcap │ Arcadeforge MAK Strike│ RGB's HAS
      Sticks: Madcatz TE2 │ 2x Capcom CPS │ 2x Neo Geo
    • The NeoGeo multi already exists in the form of Chinese X-in-1 boards and they aren't that expensive (I got a 161-in-1 for about AU$150)
      But if you really wanted to do it just rip the Chinese design and re-produce it.
      They ripped the ROMs from MAME and sold a million of them so f*ck 'em, just rip their design, or at least use it as a base and improve it with an SD slot and reprogrammable flashes so it can be updated ;-D

      I like the idea of a multi-F3 as well. I've got an Elevator Action Returns here that is lonely.
    • Mr T Guru wrote:

      The NeoGeo multi already exists in the form of Chinese X-in-1 boards and they aren't that expensive (I got a 161-in-1 for about AU$150)
      But if you really wanted to do it just rip the Chinese design and re-produce it.
      They ripped the ROMs from MAME and sold a million of them so f*ck 'em, just rip their design, or at least use it as a base and improve it with an SD slot and reprogrammable flashes so it can be updated ;-D

      I like the idea of a multi-F3 as well. I've got an Elevator Action Returns here that is lonely.
      That Taito F3 needs some love :)

      I was thinking about that. Looks like people prefer again the LCD screen so it looks more original. A menu would kill the flavour. We'll see how this goes....first I need to take care of that f*cking crackling in CPS2.
      * Arcade-projects, the site where you get the most of your arcade games.
      * If you want Drama go to Neo-Geo forum ---Darksoft
    • Darksoft wrote:

      Mr T Guru wrote:

      The NeoGeo multi already exists in the form of Chinese X-in-1 boards and they aren't that expensive (I got a 161-in-1 for about AU$150)
      But if you really wanted to do it just rip the Chinese design and re-produce it.
      They ripped the ROMs from MAME and sold a million of them so f*ck 'em, just rip their design, or at least use it as a base and improve it with an SD slot and reprogrammable flashes so it can be updated ;-D

      I like the idea of a multi-F3 as well. I've got an Elevator Action Returns here that is lonely.
      That Taito F3 needs some love :)
      I was thinking about that. Looks like people prefer again the LCD screen so it looks more original. A menu would kill the flavour. We'll see how this goes....first I need to take care of that f*cking crackling in CPS2.
      This for sure. I'd totally prefer a LCD screen similar to the CPS2 setup so when you power it on, it behaves just like the original game with no menu screen or frontend.
    • Oh man...a Taito F3 Multi would be awesome!

      Would it be able to get RayForce/GunLock running on it? I have seen a French site where they used to convert cartridges and make a Rayforce cart.

      That would make it killer for me because then Elevator Action Returns and all the other shmups would be like whipped cream on a delicious sundae.
    • udongein wrote:

      My pick would be:
      1. On-screen menu
      2. LCD
      3. Jumpers

      I haven't seen this idea suggested yet, but if the on-screen menu ends up being implemented, maybe have some way to auto-boot to the last played game upon bootup after a few second timer? Sort of like windows boot options prompt - press any button to in the menu to stop the "timer" so you can choose something aside from the default option (last played rom). This might also be nice on the NeoGeo multi. :D
      Now we have the jumper selection thing from miisalo :) But probably it will be LCD based this time, like CPS2.
      * Arcade-projects, the site where you get the most of your arcade games.
      * If you want Drama go to Neo-Geo forum ---Darksoft
    • aoiddr wrote:

      jugu wrote:

      Just adding my 2 cents.

      1. LCD Screen
      2. Dip switches

      What about a CPS2 style kick harness connector for the fighters? Not sure which type of connector the F3 uses.
      There's only 1 fighting game for the F3 (Kaiser Knuckle) and the pin-out is the same as the CPS1 (via connector AA). So all you'd need is a CPS2 to CPS1 adapter.
      Not entirely related, but sort pinout related: I'd be happy to find the spinner pinout for Puchi Carat. I've owned two boards across the years but never one setup for a spinner.
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.
    • rewrite wrote:

      aoiddr wrote:

      jugu wrote:

      Just adding my 2 cents.

      1. LCD Screen
      2. Dip switches

      What about a CPS2 style kick harness connector for the fighters? Not sure which type of connector the F3 uses.
      There's only 1 fighting game for the F3 (Kaiser Knuckle) and the pin-out is the same as the CPS1 (via connector AA). So all you'd need is a CPS2 to CPS1 adapter.
      Not entirely related, but sort pinout related: I'd be happy to find the spinner pinout for Puchi Carat. I've owned two boards across the years but never one setup for a spinner.

      You have to wire a Spinner directly to the Jamma harness and then set a jumper on the Taito F3 board.

      The pinout... I'll have to check. I just reglued my Spinner case, so I don't want to crack it back open. There are only 4 wires needed, though...

      The post was edited 1 time, last by aoiddr ().

    • Okay, found the picture with the pin-out of the Spinner:

      "1.Pinouts.
      Check the pic.
      Solder wires into correct positions.

      2.NOTE (Important!!)
      1) Do not reverse GND and +5V.
      Sensor will die if you connect them incorrectly.

      2) Each L(left), R(right) has to be connect into left, right correctly.
      Otherwise you will not get any control."

      blogs.yahoo.co.jp/drkitty_jp/32538787.html



      Again, to get it working on a Taito F3, the Spinner's wires need to go to the Jamma Harness (they don't connect on the board itself). You then change a jumper on the F3 and that changes it from Joystick to Spinner.
      Images
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    • I ll take what ever you give me. If you make something better later on I ll tske it too. If you need money in advance I ll give that.
      Video: Framemeister XRGB mini with XSync-1 and XCapture-1 │ Sony BVM-D20F1E
      DS: ST-V │CPS2 MultiKit │ CPS3 SuperBios
      MB: MV-1B │ CPS1 │ CPS2 │ CPS3 │ ST-V │ Naomi II │ G-Net │ TTX2
      SB: Street Fighter 1 (6 Button Edition)
      Superguns: MK30 Adcap │ Arcadeforge MAK Strike│ RGB's HAS
      Sticks: Madcatz TE2 │ 2x Capcom CPS │ 2x Neo Geo