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Jamma harnesses

KalessinDB

KalessinDB

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So I'm looking to overhaul one or both of my Astro Cities. Neither of them have original power supplies, and they're choking a bit on things like the CPS2 multi. I've bought a couple of these - https://www.highway.net.au/arcade-p...ansformers/sega-atx-power-supply/17180-1.html - to use to replace the power supplies. They seem to work okay, but they don't have built in buttons for test/service or a volume knob like my old ones did - though they have a 4 pin header that I'm pretty sure is what I'm supposed to use for that once I figure out how.

So since I'm going to be fixing that, I figured why not do a full rewire? I plan on using amp up connectors for the control panel (mine currently just has a cheap kick harness directly to the board), wiring for 4 on the edge, all the right stuff and still make it be an Astro. Figure this will give me a better feel for the cab too, just as a bonus.

My main question to start this all off though: has anyone used the Jamma harnesses from Paradise before? Because they've got them fully populated at $7.50 as opposed to like Mike's and such where they're $20+. In this hobby I'm certainly not going to worry about spending an extra fifteen bucks per cab to ensure quality, but at the same time there's no reason to just give away money, you know? I've ordered from Paradise before for sticks/buttons and been happy enough with their service and quality.

Also if anyone has first-hand experience with the power supply replacement I grabbed and can help me re: test/service/volume, that would be swell too.
 
those adapters sold on highway entertainment are specifically for Model 3 boards; they're designed to be a drop in replacement for Model 3 PSUs. Model 3 PSUs are similar to the NAOMI PSUs in that they include 3.3V output but they are crazy expensive and prone to failure. I think they kind of market them as being useful for other PSU replacements as well just to sell more of them.

When I needed Model 3 PSUs for my VOOT setup I looked at these and opted not to buy them because it was cheaper to just buy legit NAOMI PSUs and I'd still have adjustability.

why not just source original Astro City PSUs? or upgrade to Blast or Versus City PSUs? which will have all the service buttons and built in Amps. they pop up on YAJ quite often and usually for a reasonable price.

Original Sega JAMMA wiring is going to be way better quality and than any of the cheap jamma harnesses you find online. maybe it's me but I'm personally a stickler for keeping stuff as original as possible.
 
Try to get oem harnesses.

This is what you get with most low cost harness wiring:

IMG_8431.JPG


Based on outside diameter on a quick glance you would think the power leads would be higher wire gauge, but they are not. But at least they dont lie about it on the wire label, they all say 22AWG.

22AWG conductor should be 0.64mm in diameter

The conductor in this 22AWG labeled wire measured this:

IMG_8434.JPG
So its a cross between 24-25awg, which is rated to handle about 3 amps of current vs the 7amps that a true 22awg conductor is rated for. This is the reason why most of these products are low cost and can many times be a hazard to use.
 

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SNK-NEO-GEO said:
I am also looking into replacing the PSU on the Astro because the power off toggle switch stop working when my monitor issues started.. i ended up ordering a PSU from the seller below.. The Stimated delivery date looks longgggg..but this seems to be the only seller on ebay at the moment.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Astro-City-C...%3A300a922b15f0a8878e0a8248fffe02a9%7Ciid%3A1
Click to expand...
Yaton is super legitimate. And as is the usual with items shipped from China sometimes they show up in two days, sometimes two weeks, and rarely two months.

Always had good experiences with them. And they take requests for parts.
 
yeah I've ordered a few items from yaton as well. a lot of his items are pretty grungy but you get what you see in the pictures and they work as described... can't beat the prices either.
 
Derick2k said:
22AWG conductor should be 0.64mm in diameter

The conductor in this 22AWG labeled wire measured this:


So its a cross between 24-25awg, which is rated to handle about 3 amps of current vs the 7amps that a true 22awg conductor is rated for. This is the reason why most of these products are low cost and can many times be a hazard to use.
Click to expand...
Wiring gauge isn't quite as simple as measuring the diameter of the wire. Its dependent on whether the cable is stranded or solid. Also its current rating depends on the type of material used e.g. copper, tin or aluminium. As electron flow only occurs on the surface of the conductor a more accurate measurement is normally mm2. Also when used over a short distance cables current ratings are often increased. I would be more worried about the fact they often use pretty crappy metal in the cheap harnesses.
 
Blackfish said:
Derick2k said:
22AWG conductor should be 0.64mm in diameter

The conductor in this 22AWG labeled wire measured this:


So its a cross between 24-25awg, which is rated to handle about 3 amps of current vs the 7amps that a true 22awg conductor is rated for. This is the reason why most of these products are low cost and can many times be a hazard to use.
Click to expand...
Wiring gauge isn't quite as simple as measuring the diameter of the wire. Its dependent on whether the cable is stranded or solid. Also its current rating depends on the type of material used e.g. copper, tin or aluminium. As electron flow only occurs on the surface of the conductor a more accurate measurement is normally mm2. Also when used over a short distance cables current ratings are often increased. I would be more worried about the fact they often use pretty crappy metal in the cheap harnesses.
Click to expand...
I totally agree with you that there are more factors to consider, like you say, metal type, solid/stranded, length, etc...but I dont want to write a thesis explaining this. Its a buyer beware type of thing, as a general rule most of those shady chinese manufacturers' low cost jamma harnesses floating on ebay for $3.99 I would stay far away from. If you are going to get one, get a quality one from the people that made the standard to begin with is all I am saying, or if you can, make your own with quality wire/connectors.
 
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