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I don't have a tri-sync myself, but from what I can gather about none of them can do high-impedance RGB with C-sync via VGA connector?
Also seems some of them have issues with C-sync altogether.

I don't want feature-creep, but I need to understand the scope of the issue.

0-1VPP RGB + HV sync should work on all of them? I don't think this will be incorporated in the Jammafier, but could possibly be a future board/add-on.

Edit:
Something like this

3-sync helper.jpg

VGA male for input that would source power directly from the jammafier and output re-amplified 75ohm RGB at correct levels + proper H/V sync that will fix things like taito F3 etc. May be of interest to people with non-jvs cabs that have tri sync as well.
 
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I don't have a tri-sync myself, but from what I can gather about none of them can do high-impedance RGB with C-sync via VGA connector?
Also seems some of them have issues with C-sync altogether.
I have 4 different tri syncs in my machines. these pictures aren't mine (just stuff I found on google) but here is how they're setup...

My Makvision Tri-sync has 1 video port and it has a switch on the remote board for high or low impedance,
The video port is just a pin header and it came with a adapter cable to hook up VGA.

makvision-suzo-happ-25-24-arcade_1_aa7c6558586b168236593e8ff58c4a22.jpg


My D9200 has both a VGA port and a Pin header. I'm unsure if they're wired differently.
Wells-Gardner-D-9200.jpg

My MS2931 has separate connectors on the Chassis for the VGA port and JAMMA Video:
vidfix2.jpg



Similar to the D9200 the NeoTec NT-500DX has sub-board with both a VGA port and a pin header, it's unclear if they're wired differently. (Mine is actually missing this board, it had 15KHz wired directly into the connector on the main chassis)
500dx.jpg
 
Yup, the plot thickens :) So it seems you need to mess with custom cables or jumpers on the chassis to switch between low/high impedance video on tri-syncs.

Makes a bit more sense then.
31K monitors: jammafier -> retroscaler a1 (or something else)
tri-sync monitor - jammafier -> tri-sync helper
 
Thanks for info on tri-syncs, please correct me if I've made some wrong assumptions. Added a page for the "tri-sync helper", which should also be useful for OSSC setups:

https://irkenlabs.com/jammafier/tri-sync-monitors
Maybe take your time and incorporate this with the Jammafier.. the less plugin devices the better. The Jammafier with this integrated feature and an OSSC would be ideal for Vewlix Cabs.
 
I don't mind it as a separate piece. Would be awesome if csync or HV was selectable with jumper or something though. The device would be insanely useful for supergun on PVM for example.
 
Maybe take your time and incorporate this with the Jammafier.. the less plugin devices the better. The Jammafier with this integrated feature and an OSSC would be ideal for Vewlix Cabs.
Reason I'm a little hesitant, is that while the Tri-Sync helper board is tiny - it has 24 total parts, 15 unique part numbers - and the sync re-generator IC is not exactly cheap. To add bypass for both attenuation and sync processing would require even more parts, all of which are already on the upscaler. So for what I think will be the average customer (Naomi Universal with 31k only CRT), this will add quite a bit of cost. I'll have a good think about it though and do a comparison of OSSC vs Retro Scaler A1 on LCD when I get back to Norway mid January - by nature I think the OSSC is a lot better having digital output, OTOH the retro scaler should be as good as or better than the taito supplied scaler.

I don't mind it as a separate piece. Would be awesome if csync or HV was selectable with jumper or something though. The device would be insanely useful for supergun on PVM for example.
Buy a HAS from @RGB, he has all this these features and more in a nice package :)
 
I build all my own superguns. Normally 220 ohm on RGB and sync does just fine. I was just thinking the tri sync helper would still benefit from the option for csync out on the hsync pin is all. Certainly not a need by any means.
 
Maybe take your time and incorporate this with the Jammafier.. the less plugin devices the better. The Jammafier with this integrated feature and an OSSC would be ideal for Vewlix Cabs.
Reason I'm a little hesitant, is that while the Tri-Sync helper board is tiny - it has 24 total parts, 15 unique part numbers - and the sync re-generator IC is not exactly cheap. To add bypass for both attenuation and sync processing would require even more parts, all of which are already on the upscaler. So for what I think will be the average customer (Naomi Universal with 31k only CRT), this will add quite a bit of cost. I'll have a good think about it though and do a comparison of OSSC vs Retro Scaler A1 on LCD when I get back to Norway mid January - by nature I think the OSSC is a lot better having digital output, OTOH the retro scaler should be as good as or better than the taito supplied scaler.
Buy a HAS from @RGB, he has all this these features and more in a nice package :)
in my honest opinion - I think that you might be understanding the value of the Jammafier. I am looking at things from a different angle (LCD cabs) and not for the intended purpose of CRT tri-sync:).. I share jassin's vew of the future of playing 15khz on Vewlix Or LCD cabs using HAS plus OSSC or Taito's Jamma kit and upscaler or your new devices(s). I currently don't like the HAS plus OSSC idea because there are too many parts, the Vewlix D Black has no sync issues with that setup.. the Taito's solution, I have not tried but seem pictures and that has more parts than the HAS and OSSC..I think that the Jammafier plus OSSC will give the best results when it comes to user friendly and best picture do to the 720p/1080p on the OSSC.

I had a CRT issue on my Astro and as I share over email that cost me quite a lot to get fixed and it is not something that I plan on repeating on any of my CRTs cabs. If you want to integrate the new feature in the Jammafier I gladly pay the extra cost for mines BUT I will gladly throw money at the screen and support your project for both the Jammafier and the scaler on which ever form you choose to bring them to the community:)
 
Been scratching my head a little over this, and may have a compromise.

The common and mostly working way, although incorrect, to fix attenuation is to add 220Ohm series resistors on the rgb lines.
This works in conjunction with the 75ohm termination resistors in the monitor (or scaler) to form a voltage divider. Impedance wise, it adds 220Ohm to whatever the game outputs.

Looking back at my notes, the impedance varies quite a bit, but none of the boards I've tested are even close to the 'spec' of 1k, mostly around 100-200Ohm.

Would it be ok to have selectable "at-your-own-risk" 220 Ohm resistors on the RGB lines? I know it's not the 'right' way to do it, but I think it will mostly do the trick 98% of the time.
I'm still pondering what's the best approach to this problem. At the core of things, you will need something that handles Jamma video - and I'm a little reluctant to add half-assed stop-gaps to aid other devices short-comings when it comes to this.
 
Small update. Been traveling for 5 weeks, then got the flu (bad) for a week. Now somewhat back in action. Done a few changes on the connectors, which are a PITA to source for manufacture - specifically the RCA connectors. Got a few samples from the manufacturing company I plan to use, and will use these in the hand-made batch. Will also use a PTH jamma connector instead of the normal that sandwiches around the PCB.

There is now a website with details:

https://irkenlabs.com/jammafier/faq

Got a GBS-8200 in the mail this friday, which should be a cheap stop-gap solution until the retro scaler is available - and it powers fine from the Jammafier directly via the USB port, so less cable clutter in the cab.

No ETA yet, but hopefully should get next revision PCB's ordered this or next week.
 
The common and mostly working way, although incorrect, to fix attenuation is to add 220Ohm series resistors on the rgb lines.

This works in conjunction with the 75ohm termination resistors in the monitor (or scaler) to form a voltage divider. Impedance wise, it adds 220Ohm to whatever the game outputs.
Perhaps a more correct way to do things would be to borrow a page from viletim's book? http://etim.net.au/av-driver/arcade/
 
Small update. Been traveling for 5 weeks, then got the flu (bad) for a week. Now somewhat back in action. Done a few changes on the connectors, which are a PITA to source for manufacture - specifically the RCA connectors. Got a few samples from the manufacturing company I plan to use, and will use these in the hand-made batch. Will also use a PTH jamma connector instead of the normal that sandwiches around the PCB.

There is now a website with details:

https://irkenlabs.com/jammafier/faq

Got a GBS-8200 in the mail this friday, which should be a cheap stop-gap solution until the retro scaler is available - and it powers fine from the Jammafier directly via the USB port, so less cable clutter in the cab.

No ETA yet, but hopefully should get next revision PCB's ordered this or next week.
ya a gbs 8200 sounds good for the price (if it works :o)

great project btw!
 
Tiny update. Some real-life stuff has taken a bit of time lately, so not a whole lot of progress. Rev 1.1 of the jammafier PCB's are en-route to Norway, apart from re-routing the whole thing it will also have separate lines for buttons 4/5 on kick and Jamma, so this should be user selectable. It will use a PTH type jamma connector.
@FrancoB is also lending a capable and helpful hand with designing an acrylic top cover which will be pure awesomeness :) It also makes a lot of sense from a mechanical perspective in regards to attaching PCB's etc.



2018-03-05 jammafier 3d.jpg
 
Tiny update. Some real-life stuff has taken a bit of time lately, so not a whole lot of progress. Rev 1.1 of the jammafier PCB's are en-route to Norway, apart from re-routing the whole thing it will also have separate lines for buttons 4/5 on kick and Jamma, so this should be user selectable. It will use a PTH type jamma connector.
@FrancoB is also lending a capable and helpful hand with designing an acrylic top cover which will be pure awesomeness :) It also makes a lot of sense from a mechanical perspective in regards to attaching PCB's etc.



2018-03-05 jammafier 3d.jpg
can't wait :D
 
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