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skate323k137

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I've been kicking around this idea for a while, and it's a really simple one. If I'm going to go through making one, I may as well make a few if others want them.

The idea is this. Use a simple off-the-shelf stereo line out converter, with changeable or multiple connectors for various motherboards (ones that output amplified stereo audio). Obviously one end is already female RCA jacks which is perfect, the other is just leads which can be attached to the amplified audio source.

The intended use is to be able to hook up boards that output amplified stereo easily and safely in cabinets like a blast city, or any other cab that has a stereo amp expecting line level input.

So far off the top of my head I want to to support:

Atomiswave
F3
Taito G-Net (and FX-1A/FX1B/ZN-1/ZN-2/etc.) / Taito Wolf Hardware (Psychic Force 2012) (Gnet for sure, rest if same)
STV

Requested:
Namco Sys1
Konami turtles in time

(I know I'm forgetting several. let me know what I'm missing here. Shooting to cover common systems with 4 pin connectors).

If you are interested, My guess is cost is going to be $10-15 plus 3-5 dollars for each system supported. If it ends up supporting 6 systems then 30-45 USD is the likely target price as a package (not finalized of course, just ballpark). This also depends on if all the supported systems plugs are permanently attached, or if they are changeable / optional pieces. I think changeable pieces would be cleaner but would of course add a little to the cost.

Interested? Ideas? Let me know. Or if someone already did this please point me to it so I can buy one :)
 
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I'm super interested, could you also support Namco System-1 (Splatterhouse) and/or some of the Konami boards (Turtles in Time)?
Will you be selling crimped/ready-to-go connector cables to plug into board headers as well?
 
That's the idea. Sell a line out converter with female socket, and sell adapters already crimped and assembled for it to support your boards.

I'm willing to get pins and housings for anything documented that people want to buy, as long as I don't need some odd crazy tool or part.
 
I just designed two adapters that may help. I made a 4 pin version that takes speaker output and lets you plug a 3.5 mm audio jack into it. Also, a 5 pin version for pcbs that have a line-out header also. I designed them both for Sega system SP but I'm sure plenty of other systems will work for them also. They plug directly into the header and the 3.5mm jack is at the top. It doesn't do any conversion obviously. That's why I say it may be helpful here instead of exactly what you are trying to do. :)
 
Good to know!

I'll probably make the connection to the line out converter use a 4 pin amp up or something that's not standard for line level audio, just for safety reasons.
 
ST-V audio header is un-amplified so a line out converter is not needed. It's worth noting that this is the same connector as Model 2 and Model 3 but the pinout is different (Model2/3 is also un-amplifed)

Taito F3 would be useful

Taito G-Net (and FX-1A/FX1B/ZN-1/ZN-2/etc.) would need such an adapter also

Taito Wolf Hardware (Psychic Force 2012 is the only use that uses this I believe) I think uses the same connector as G-Net


Honestly F3 is kind of a special case because I believe it's the only PCB with an amplified stereo header that doesn't have a physical volume adjustment. Other boards (like the G-net) you could easily just turn the volume down and use the header as if it were un-amplified, but with the F3 because it's controlled in software you risk blowing out your speakers until you can get into the menu to turn it down.
 
but with the F3 because it's controlled in software you risk blowing out your speakers until you can get into the menu to turn it down.
Could some type of overload protection be added to the output of the adapter?
 
I've used an adapter before with F3, usually a standard car audio one that attenuates and filters under 20hz. I didn't have any problems but I suppose that's no guarantee as I'm only one person. The F3 definitely has a noticeable pop when hooked directly to speakers but it's not as bad if it's hooked to something that attenuates the audio (even the blast mono amp).

tl;dr the f3 should be safe with this.

I know a lot of people run amplified audio to an amp with the source volume turned all the way down, but I prefer this method for paranoia/safety sake.
 
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if you have a line out adapter that's all you need for protection.

I was talking about the F3 being a special case because it's the only board where you should 100% be using a line out adapter and can't get away with just running stereo plugs directly to the speaker header by turning the volume down.

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FWIW this is all irrelevant to me personally because the E29 is designed to get perfect amplified stereo directly from the JAMMA edges of all these wonky Taito boards :P
 
I have a similar solution myself, mostly use it with Atomiswave, Konami and 1 slot MVS ;)

Work perfectly, have yet to try it with my F3
 
I’m interested in one of these. The Taito G-Net is the same as the Sony ZN-2 used in Capcom’s Strider 2 and Rival Schools right?
 
CPS1 needs some stereo lovin' too!
The game must also support it...

1941
Adventure Quiz Capcom World
Adventure Quiz Capcom World 2
Street Fighter II WW (also CE, TE)
Strider
UN Squadron
Captain Commando

Everything else no.
 
CPS1 needs some stereo lovin' too!
The game must also support it...
1941
Adventure Quiz Capcom World
Adventure Quiz Capcom World 2
Street Fighter II WW (also CE, TE)
Strider
UN Squadron
Captain Commando

Everything else no.
the games that don’t have stereo will output mono over both channels right?
So I can leave the same adapter hooked up with all CPS1 boards
 
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