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Wells Gardner 25K7193 Brightness Issue

xanderXone

xanderXone

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My monitor on my Naomi cab does not seem to hold the brightness level for some reason. On startup it always dims itself quite a bit, then I have to adjust it up to a good level. Usually after a minute or two, or with shaking of the cab, it will cause it to dim again prompting further adjustment.

The only thing that seems to work is leaving it at the max brightness level on the flyback, which usually looks good initially, but after being on for a while you can start to see white horizontal lines appearing and you can also see the brightness adjusting itself up and down slightly.

What is the most likely problem causing this, and how can I remedy the issue?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this and advise a solution. This forum is a lifesaver for new arcade folk getting into the hobby.
 

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Do you know how much roughly it would cost both ways? I've done a little bit of soldering in the past but my skills are not the greatest.
 
Thanks @ThisGuy

I don't really have the cash right now to send it in. I guess I'll have to consider doing the cap kit myself and see what it involves.
 
xanderXone said:
I guess I'll have to consider doing the cap kit myself and see what it involves.
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We all have to start some place, but if you are not feeling confident about your solder skills I wouldn't recommend performing a chassis recap until you are.
Sure it's a huge difference in price, that's because in this case the work is what is time consuming/difficult not obtaining or the price of the parts.
 
skate323k137 said:
ThisGuy said:
@skate323k137 Looks like Twisted quarter has them in stock
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thanks! I need the one for the other d9200 but it looks like they have those too. This is great news as I'm recapping (another) d9200 soon that I'd like to make as nice as possible (for that model anyway lol)
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If you are doing a D9200 recap and flyback replacement - any chance your interested in doing another one? I have a D9200 chassis I would like to refurbish with a recap and flyback replacement, but I don't have the expertise to do it myself. Just curious.
 
I can give you a solid maybe. It's literally a 6 or 7 hour job because the d9200 has so many caps.
 
I've never understood why you would preemptively swap the flyback. I bought a replacement flyback for my K7000. It's a cheap chinese made affair that lasted a whole two months before it broke down. No way am I buying another one.

Honestly, if there's no mention of the manufacturer (like HR Diemen), I'm staying clear of no-name replacements.
 
nem said:
I've never understood why you would preemptively swap the flyback. I bought a replacement flyback for my K7000. It's a cheap chinese made affair that lasted a whole two months before it broke down. No way am I buying another one.

Honestly, if there's no mention of the manufacturer (like HR Diemen), I'm staying clear of no-name replacements.
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Some K7000 came with white knob flybacks which are just horrible and will take out the chassis when they die sometimes. Ive had 6 flyback replacements in my chassis for over 4 years and never had an issue. Not sure why yours failed.
 
kidpanda said:
Some K7000 came with white knob flybacks which are just horrible and will take out the chassis when they die sometimes. Ive had 6 flyback replacements in my chassis for over 4 years and never had an issue. Not sure why yours failed.
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They don't take out the whole chassis. They might take out the HOT and maybe something else, but everything is fixable in the end. You could have years of service from the original, seems silly to "fix" something that hasn't yet failed.
 
My flyback has traces of what appears to be silicone and also a few cracks in the body and brightness knob.

I'm thinking I should replace it while I'm in there.

It also looks like the cap kit doesn't come with the horizonal output transistor, or the AC input filter cap. Should I probably replace those as well?
 
I always do the filter caps. If you can grab a new HoT I don't see why you wouldn't do it.
 
Didn't HR Diemen stopped producing LOPT transformers as well? The last onces I bought for a Hantarex Polo didn't last long either. It wouldn't suprise me that they are also produced somewhere in China. The GND wire of the Focus and Screen pot wasn't at the correct position, so it took me some time to get the thing mounted on the pcb. After less than a month, the 2 potmeters started to fail. occasionally, the screen voltage jumped up and the xray protection kicked in and turned the chassis off. If a lopt has several years of age, it's plastic can become degraded and can start to crack. In such case, it can be worth to replace it before its end of life. Specially, if you do the recapping for someone else, you don't want the chassis to fail a month later due to a bad lopt.
 
xanderXone said:
My flyback has traces of what appears to be silicone and also a few cracks in the body and brightness knob.
Click to expand...
Well, they're all sealed with silicone. However, cracks are a good reason to replace.

obcd said:
Didn't HR Diemen stopped producing LOPT transformers as well? The last onces I bought for a Hantarex Polo didn't last long either. It wouldn't suprise me that they are also produced somewhere in China.
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Everything is made in China these days. However, some products are inspected for quality and some aren't. I only have one HR Diemen flyback swapped chassis and thus far it's been running OK. We'll see I guess.
 
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