Sega Model 2 / 3 hacked romsets?

[AMS]

I have all the model 2/3 psu here no problem


also I have plenty model 2/3 Jamma things here but what I am trying to say is there is no loom made for model 2 Daytona or model 1 Virtua racing since these games won’t boot outside the cage without an I/o if you power them you get a blue screen

 

[Darksoft]

Ahh I see what you mean. Then you need those parts + loom.

 

[twistedsymphony]

these games won’t boot outside the cage without an I/o if you power them you get a blue screen

there is no "io board" for model 1 2 or 3, the term you're looking for is "filter board"

and honestly there's no active components on it literally it's just a pass-through with some passive filtering components. I'd suspect if you're getting a blue screen there is some other issue at play, either you're not hooking things up correctly or there is another issue with your PCB set.

 

[AMS]

@twistedsymphony don t know where you get your info from, but Sega model 1 Virtua racing and Sega model 2 deff have a I/O board it’s this board! I know my left from right and a filter board is something else. And yes Daytona and Virtua racing give a blue screen if they don’t have a line to the comm I/o boards

Sega model 2a,b,c and model 3 is a different story those filterboards in most games is straight pinout from the filter with no I/o since the filterboard is the i/o

 

[twistedsymphony]

@twistedsymphony don t know where you get your info from, but Sega model 1 Virtua racing and Sega model 2 deff have a I/O board it’s this board! I know my left from right and a filter board is something else. And yes Daytona and Virtua racing give a blue screen if they don’t have a line to the comm I/o boards

I don't see any pictures and I meant no offense, but you saying "these games won’t boot outside the cage" lead me to believe you were referring to the filter board. I didn't realize you were talking specifically about the driving games, my mistake.

 

[AMS]

No worries mate,did mean no harm , just here to get this thing going that’s why I am posting it maybe I’m now hacking this thread to a help me make the blue screen disappear

 

[speedswan]

AMS - You do realize that without an I/O Board you won't get any Analog or Digital controls, so you won't be able to control the game.

It should just be 4 wires from the main board to the I/O along with 5V power and and to the I/O

 

[AMS]

Correct , as we try to make these games Jamma loom ready and make a loom for the analog controls

we need to have the game boot. From what I can see there are 5 wires that go to cn4 on the i/o to the filter but still can t get the games to boot so or my I/o is not working good or I connected it wrong

that’s why I need some help

 

[speedswan]

As Twistedsymphony says, the filter board is really just a straight through connection - I just normally wire directly to the 32 pin connector

Most of the red wires are 5v (the ones on the left and right of the connector)
The black wires are all GND
The white and red in the middle wires are TX +- and RX +- that connect to CN4 on the I/O board - The black wire on CN4 is GND

Then you need to connect 5V (Red) and GND (Black) to this connector

Once you've connected those correctly then it should boot without the blue screen - I/Os are cheap but I've never had a bad one.

Then for controls - here's an example of Virtua Fighter, which actually wires to two connectors (along with the video connector)

Then you wire all of those up to a JAMMA edge connector and plug it into the 24kHz capable cabinet of your choice - you don't need a special PSU - I've tried it with an Aero PSU and it works fine

I've not hooked up audio yet, but it should work like the I/O board, where the sound board will need power and RX and TX lines.

Good luck - these things are scary at first but super fun once you start to understand them and they're the basis of pretty much how all of these Sega cabs are put together for a while.

Mark

 

[AMS]

@speedswan yes this is how it is! ))

do you know the exact pinout on the pin 32 what pin of the tx goes to the tx line of the i/o since both your wires are red and both are white

but this looks excellent

Thank you

 

[glstar]

As Twistedsymphony says, the filter board is really just a straight through connection - I just normally wire directly to the 32 pin connector

Most of the red wires are 5v (the ones on the left and right of the connector)
The black wires are all GND
The white and red in the middle wires are TX +- and RX +- that connect to CN4 on the I/O board - The black wire on CN4 is GND

Then you need to connect 5V (Red) and GND (Black) to this connector

Once you've connected those correctly then it should boot without the blue screen - I/Os are cheap but I've never had a bad one.

Then for controls - here's an example of Virtua Fighter, which actually wires to two connectors (along with the video connector)

Then you wire all of those up to a JAMMA edge connector and plug it into the 24kHz capable cabinet of your choice - you don't need a special PSU - I've tried it with an Aero PSU and it works fine

I've not hooked up audio yet, but it should work like the I/O board, where the sound board will need power and RX and TX lines.

Good luck - these things are scary at first but super fun once you start to understand them and they're the basis of pretty much how all of these Sega cabs are put together for a while.

Mark

Great work.
Could you tell me where did you get the 32 pin connector that goes into the mainboard?
And possibly also it's exact pinout

Thank you.


EDIT.
Found them
Omron XC5B-3221
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/XC5B-3221?qs=WOBxwZpV8jX/SJAnTmUxDA==

 

[speedswan]

See my previous post here for the pinout Virtua Racing filter board

@glstar I've been inspired by your multi-fighter to do this! You can also buy larger and smaller connectors for different Sega board sets. Essentially, it's the same pinout as the breakout filter board - just more condensed.

 

[glstar]

See my previous post here for the pinout Virtua Racing filter board

@glstar I've been inspired by your multi-fighter to do this! You can also buy larger and smaller connectors for different Sega board sets. Essentially, it's the same pinout as the breakout filter board - just more condensed.

Thanks, i manage to understand the pinout and to order the 32 pin connectors.

I'm glad that you done this, it's a very good attempt to have this running at home.
I want to be able to test all my model1/Daytona stuff on my bench.

 

[glstar]

Solved

Now i need to cable the controls (any hint on the pinout?)

Thanks for your help

 

[AMS]

Yeaaaaaah buddy

 

[speedswan]

@Arcade game & I only wired up the digital buttons and the lamps to the 50 pin connector (CN1) on the I/O

GND, 5V, Test & Service are consistent across all Model 1 the others move around mysteriously

I think the analog inputs are just 0-5V and connect to other pins on the I/O, which should cover you for steering, brake & accelerator.

I've no idea how force feedback works and I think I've read that it's pretty dramatically different between Sega hardware generations.

All of it should be in the wiring diagram in the manual.

Good luck!

Mark

 

[glstar]

@Arcade game & I only wired up the digital buttons and the lamps to the 50 pin connector (CN1) on the I/O

GND, 5V, Test & Service are consistent across all Model 1 the others move around mysteriously

I think the analog inputs are just 0-5V and connect to other pins on the I/O, which should cover you for steering, brake & accelerator.

I've no idea how force feedback works and I think I've read that it's pretty dramatically different between Sega hardware generations.

All of it should be in the wiring diagram in the manual.

Good luck!

Mark

Thanks for that pinout too….
I will look at it to get inputs going in the jamma adaptor.

 

[biggestsonicfan]

I guess because this is the hacked ROM thread for Model2, I will post what I have:

I have a modified Sonic the Fighters (NOT Sonic Championship, but they will work in a Championship setup with memory test failures) which can do the following:

1. Allow debug mode to be input with just Service Coin+P1 Punch, instead of a longer code.
2. The soundtrack plays "SONIC VS KNUCKLES ~ North Wind" for the final boss instead of "DEATH EGG'S HANGAR ~ Hurry Up!" as listed in the official soundtrack, I can fix this.
3. Fixes Honey's "squished" models (ala Amy's hammer or Bark's fist pound). However, she must be selected with debug. (See below for exception)
4. (3a) Fix Honey's title card to match the one used in the 2012 rerelease on X360/PS3

Optional:

• Add all reasonably non-playable characters to the character select screen: Honey, Eggman, Eggman in Mech, Eggman's Minion, Super Sonic, and Metal Sonic. Big Eggman and UFO Eggman are difficult to use in normal gameplay.
• Restore prototype health bars, Player 1 is Blue and Player 2 is Yellow. (This may have other adverse affects to the game I am unaware of, however)
• Skip the "WARNING" screen when set to Japanese locale.

 

[glstar]

I guess because this is the hacked ROM thread for Model2, I will post what I have:

I have a modified Sonic the Fighters (NOT Sonic Championship, but they will work in a Championship setup with memory test failures) which can do the following:

1. Allow debug mode to be input with just Service Coin+P1 Punch, instead of a longer code.
2. The soundtrack plays "SONIC VS KNUCKLES ~ North Wind" for the final boss instead of "DEATH EGG'S HANGAR ~ Hurry Up!" as listed in the official soundtrack.
3. Fixes Honey's "squished" models (ala Amy's hammer or Bark's fist pound). However, she must be selected with debug. (See below for exception)

Optional:

• Add all reasonably non-playable characters to the character select screen: Honey, Eggman, Eggman in Mech, Eggman's Minion, Super Sonic, and Metal Sonic. Big Eggman and UFO Eggman are difficult to use in normal gameplay.
• Restore prototype health bars, Player 1 is Blue and Player 2 is Yellow.
• Skip the "WARNING" screen.

Nice work.
I need to convert a 2B to play Dead or Alive….
I only have it in 2A, but i need to have it in 2B too.

 

[pcfxFAN]

l recently revived a model 3 Lost World Deluxe cabinet from the dead. Thanks to this thread, I'm motivated to try more model 3 setups.
With my current cabinet (shooting), i see thee are also Star Wars Trilogy, LA machineguns and Ocean Hunter games that are similar enough to try.
If i get a whole game board case, to have the right version board and security...
Can i drop it in and play? Ive see SW Trilogy played with a gun, so im curious. Thanks