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Happy new Vewlix owner here! ^^ (Feels good to finally have that arcade/Akihabara atmosphere at home! [astrocity] And be among fellow arcade lovers who share that pure joy.)

I want to enjoy my cabinet ASAP, but don't have access to a JVS IO right now, so a PC should work nicely in the meantime. The I-PAC seems like a good solution for that, and I have some questions.

  • What size are these quick disconnects inside my cabinet? https://i.imgur.com/xpeSIhQ.jpg
  • What would I need to wire the coin mech into an I-PAC? (Purely for authenticity. The slot can't fit quarters anyway, so there's no revenue aspect. I want to use a personal supply of yen coins.)
  • How about longevity? Do I-PACs or other USB control boards last fairly long?
 
Congrats... those on the left are for players two.. on the right, those connects to the Taito I/O boards and as you described is not there. I don't know much about using an IPAC but most of us use a brook universal fighting board which on PC/windows work well and can be used with consoles PS3/3/Xbox360/xbox one. Some of us create treads on how things are wire.. do a quick search and see if you can find it..once again congrats:)
 
Greetings, SNK. ^^ Thanks for the input and the congrats. It's amazing to finally have a candy cab, a first arcade cab, and especially a Vewlix. It's excellent to finally share in that legendary joy with other arcade gamers!

I searched the forum (and Google) but didn't find anything about the quick disconnect size. I tend to search before asking, generally. :thumbup: Some searches can be tricky though.

I finally resorted to asking an awesome forum pal. Rewrite informed me that the Vewlix uses standard Sanwa controls, which accept .110 (2.8mm) quick disconnects. :thumbsup: (In case anyone else needs that info.)

The universal fighting board costs more than a 2P I-PAC, and I don't need the console aspect. Does it have any other advantages over the I-PAC?
 
I think that we are in the minority that truly like the Vewlix..I can only think of 3 more people.. I might be able to answer your questions better if you can tell tell me know you are planning to use the IPAC on the PC..
 
I would recommend the Brooks Universal Fighting board over the Ipac for controls.
It is known for being very low lag (anything that encodes to USB format will introduce some lag) and very high quality.

That same site (FocusAttack) is a great resource for building your own harness to work with the Brooks.

Get your pre-crimped 110 wire here, with ground wire daisy-chain here... Get your Sanwa 5pin harness/wire here...
Connect it all up to your panel/joystick/buttons and then to the Brooks and you are ready to rock that MAME PC. :thumbup:

If you decide to go with a HAS as I have, you can easily disconnect the Brooks board and replace with a DB15 Terminal block.
70126846.jpg


Then connect to the HAS via DB15 extension cable
d15-extension-cable.jpg

Easy terminal in/out access, flip flop without soldering anything.
I love the Vewlix too!
Meh they are OK... J/K I <3 Vewlix! ;)
IWSvi07.png
:love: you might consider this
fP00CDR.png
for your signature? :)
 
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What would I need to wire the coin mech into an I-PAC?
Oh I almost forgot...

Some 187 ends will connect up directly to the microswitch in the coin door... You will then snake this wire up into the control panel to connect to coin on the Ipac/Brooks.
This microswitch isn't an exact match, but it shows the 187 sized ends that you will connect to.

I would also recommend replacing the original 100 yen coin mech with this 3D printed AnyCoin.
I've got 'em in both of my cabs and I love 'em!

pejWHdg.jpg

0YcTv8a.jpg
 
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I would recommend the Brooks Universal Fighting board over the Ipac for controls.
It is known for being very low lag (anything that encodes to USB format will introduce some lag) and very high quality.

That same site (FocusAttack) is a great resource for building your own harness to work with the Brooks.

Get your pre-crimped 110 wire here, with ground wire daisy-chain here... Get your Sanwa 5pin harness/wire here...
Connect it all up to your panel/joystick/buttons and then to the Brooks and you are ready to rock that MAME PC. :thumbup:

If you decide to go with a HAS as I have, you can easily disconnect the Brooks board and replace with a DB15 Terminal block.
70126846.jpg


This will connect directly to the HAS, while still offering up easy terminal in/out access (so you can flip flop without soldering anything).
I love the Vewlix too!
Meh they are OK... J/K I <3 Vewlix! ;)
Excellent info, Jassin. :thumbsup: Many thanks! And yeah, a Vewlix adds class to a room, to be totally objective. :P

A few questions here.
  • Do you know if the I-PAC is significantly more laggy? It's $40 for 2 players vs nearly $200, and I'm hoping to get everything on a tight budget around $1000. (Including a 2P panel, and building a MAME/Tekken/SF5 PC.) The PC parts may take up half that, and I'm not sure how astronomical Taito panel shipping would be.
  • The HAS is a supergun, right? (From RGB on the Shmups forum?) Are there certain benefits to a supergun inside the cabinet, instead of just connecting PCBs directly to the IO? And does RGB still sell the HAS?
  • I'd like to keep the original Vewlix coin mech for an Akihabara arcade feel, and it seems to use special shaped quick disconnects to help the wires fit. (And they're still a tight fit through the door.) Do you know where to get this type of quick disconnect?
    RWUZT9F.jpg
    jF4BgwT.jpg
 
Are there certain benefits to a supergun inside the cabinet, instead of just connecting PCBs directly to the IO?
What IO? Show me the JAMMA edge inside your cab. ;)
Yeah, I realise my cab is currently missing the IO, and the JAMMA kit costs extra. That's actually why I asked. :thumbup: (To weigh the advantages of which to eventually get.) Your tips have been super helpful, and I'd like to know your reasoning on the HAS. ^^

Is it a cost thing?

And do you know whether the I-PAC has any more lag than the brook, or where to get the specially shaped quick disconnects?

jF4BgwT.jpg
 
I'd like to know your reasoning on the HAS.
I have one official Taito JAMMA kit, and one gutted cab with a HAS Supergun/Suzo Happ PSU/OSSC inside.
So let's talk about the differences...

TaitoHAS
-5v SupportNoYes (but PSU dependent)
CPS2/3 Style KicksNoYes
Scanline GenerationYes with SLG 3000 onlyYes with xRGB/OSSC
>640x480 OutputNoYes with xRGB/OSSC
Midway Y/T PCB SupportNo (nothing can change this)Yes with xRGB/OSSC
Taito F3 PCB SupportYesNo with OSSC, Yes with xRGB
Non-JAMMA Support*Maybe with an adapter, but very unlikelyYes with an adapter
Classic (15khz) Console Supportarcade level RGBs, possible with custom ampSCART via xRGB/OSSC
Stereo SoundMono only with Kit fully installedStereo/RCA/3.5mm


In general things look better on the OSSC, are more configurable with the HAS and support more PCBs with -5v.

You can add a Reco to the official Taito JAMMA kit, then fit it with a negatron to generate the proper negative voltage.
A Reco will also consolidate buttons 4/5/6 into the standard CPS2/3 style kicks and give you sync pulse re-generation.

The biggest problem I've had with the Taito, its very very picky about what it will sync.
As mentioned ZERO Midway Y/T/Wolf boards work with it, that's a real loss in my book.

Mortal Kombat
Mortal Kombat II
Mortal Kombat III
NBA JAM
NBA JAM TE
Rampage World Tour
Narc
Smash TV

Its also worth mentioning if you intend to use both JVS boards and JAMMA boards in your cab.
The best method is to actually use a cab wired for JAMMA, either by official kit or HAS hackery.
Then use a Capcom IO at the JAMMA edge to regain JVS.

If the cab is wired for JVS, you are *fucked for adding JAMMA support unless you uninstall/swap (its a huge pain in the ass) the kits every time.
Now maybe you understand why I sold both my official IOs (JVS and Fast) on day one of receiving my cabs.
To me they are both totally worthless (aka if you need JVS get a Capcom IO, almost no one needs Fast). ;)

*Fucked = I've used a few different JVS-to-JAMMA adapters, they are all full of lag. Maybe the best is the Namco, 2nd best Konami, but yea all lag. :thumbdown:
 
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Thanks for the detailed explanation and comparison!

Now I definitely understand why someone may prefer the HAS. Very significant features and versatility there. :thumbsup: Great info.

I didn't realise the Taito equipment prevents OSSC scan lines, or that the HAS supports more game boards. It seems to offer huge advantages, including stereo sound. (It's surprising that Taito's kit doesn't send stereo to their cab's 4 speakers.)

JAMMA/HAS is definitely looking interesting vs a JVS setup. Many of my favorite games are early enough that they're probably JAMMA. (PANG, Killer Instinct, Rastan, Shadow Dancer, Strider, RoboCop)

However, I also want a PC included in the setup. One of my favorite Steam games (Street Fighter V) looks excellent on the Vewlix, and other arcade favorites predate JAMMA or have 4-way controls. (Kung Fu Master, Pac-Mania) Those seem like good reasons for a HyperSpin PC, and possibly even a ServoStik.

If possible, I'd like to eventually install PC and PCB setups at the same time, maybe with a switch to flip between them.

I've also wondered about a step down transformer to the wall socket (for the longevity of the Vewlix) but not sure if that would work with a 120V PC in the cabinet.
 
I've also wondered about a step down transformer to the wall socket (for the longevity of the Vewlix)
This is NOT optional, without a 100v stepdown transformer the +5v and +12v lines on your PSU will fluctuate wildly (go ahead and read them with a multimeter)!
DO NOT connect any boards to the PSU like that, srsly it will spike up past 6v and then drop down to bout 3v.
This spiking will destroy boards.
Many of my favorite games are early enough that they're probably JAMMA. (PANG
So I'm a huge fan of Super Pang (but I use the USA Super Buster Bros. revision) anway guess what?
Don't work on Taito Scaler PERIOD! Sync out of range/bounds is all it will say if you connect it.
Works just fine with the HAS+OSSC.
opmG4h0.jpg


Notice the iScan DVDO VP30 on the floor in that shot above?
I haven't really been talking about the DVDO, but if you do decide to go HAS+OSSC this equipment is also unfortunately necessary as well.

You see the OSSC as awesome as it is, will not alter the sync rate of the original board.
What happens when you feed a Vewlix LCD a sync rate of 58.8hz (rather than 60.0hz)? A black screen and the message "sync out of bounds" haha. :P

The DVDO can do this "magic" mode called timing stretch, where it will unconditionally buffer any sync to a clean 60.0hz, regardless of input rate.
Super Pang/Buster Bros. will actually sync without the DVDO (as its timing is close enough) but Midway Y/T/Wolf forget it!

R-Type and Life Force both require the OSSC+DVDO as well, not only that but you have to really fiddle with the front and backporch settings to get it to display correctly.

I was able to pack everything neatly inside using a old CRT monitor shelf/spacer.
6nBVned.jpg

I didn't realise the Taito equipment prevents OSSC scan lines
Huh?
The Taito equipment has nothing to do with the OSSC whatsoever.
What I'm saying is the Taito JAMMA kit (which includes a IO harness, JAMMA harness and scaler board) cannot draw scanlines itself.
What you can do is add a SLG3000 device to the chain between the Taito kit and the LCD, that will give you scanlines.

Pictured below, the scaler board that is included with the official JAMMA kit. You can look at the manual here.
B2viGSC.jpg
 
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This is NOT optional, without a 100v stepdown transformer the +5v and +12v lines on your PSU will fluctuate wildly (go ahead and read them with a multimeter)!
To clarify this better, it's not optional for PCB's.

Perfectly optional if you're running a PC or other modern arcade hardware that uses its own PSU (TTX/X2/3/Lindbergh/etc) as these skip over using the PSU inside the cabinet entirely.
 
it's not optional for PCB's.
Or I guess to take it even further... It's not optional for the Sun PSU inside the Vewlix.
All other Vewlix components (LCD, speakers, lights) seem totally unaffected by 120v.

So if you remove or simply disconnect the PSU no problem.
I imagine even if you aren't using the PSU, leaving it connected and powered via 120v can't be good for it long term.
 
it's not optional for PCB's.
Or I guess to take it even further... It's not optional for the Sun PSU inside the Vewlix.All other Vewlix components (LCD, speakers, lights) seem totally unaffected by 120v.

So if you remove or simply disconnect the PSU no problem.
I imagine even if you aren't using the PSU, leaving it connected and powered via 120v can't be good for it long term.
Thanks, jassin and rewrite!

So, I'll reply to other stuff soon, (some good stuff there) but this seems especially crucial.
  • How do I disconnect that power supply?
  • Do I need to discharge it first somehow, to make it safe to disconnect?
  • Will the monitor, lights, amp, and fans still work without that power supply?
  • Frivolous bonus question: Which wires power the marquee and panel lights, and where do they plug in?
 
How do I disconnect that power supply?
re4jNYH.jpg


Only affects the cabs ability to generate +5v +12v and +3.3v aka JVS/JAMMA.

BTW you can see the adjustment pot at the bottom of the PSU board in this shot as well.
You will likely need to tweak the voltage per game board.

If you will be using this like a MAME machine (PC with a Brooks or Ipac) it will have zero effect on you.

That setup would look more like my Diamond, with a directly connected (no IO) control panel...
Again, my terminal block DB15-to-extension-to-HAS solution.

Homemade wire harness (with Sanwa 110 terminal caps heh).
Jg4vO9m.jpg


I should prob cut/manage these better. ;)
MfPyPMt.jpg


*Bonus*
Taito JAMMA kit scaler into SLG3000 out to LCD.
fijieks.jpg


Vewlix Capcom + Taito JAMMA Kit + SLG3000 + RECO with DarkSoft CPS2 Multi.
DDzzR12.jpg
 
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That's awesome! Thanks, jassin!

Went ahead and unplugged that wire. (very slowly and gently) Considering pulling the "CON3" one behind it too, just in case. In the past, I ran the cab a few hours to test the monitor, then left it cab plugged in (but off) for a few days. I hope that didn't hurt the PSU at all.

Are the cables for the panel and marquee lighting easy to spot? Perhaps attached to a different PSU in the cab? I really want to see how it looks with the lights on! ^^

I appreciate all the extra pictures. Some great info in there, especially how to hook up good video equipment. (And that CPS2 board looks great! Tight fit though!)
 
I hope that didn't hurt the PSU at all.
The switch in the rear is like a kill switch, nothing in the cab gets power if it's off.

The panel lighting, look under/around the instruction glass when both halves of the control panel are open, it should be pretty obvious, I'm pretty sure it's on the right hand side.

The marquee light, IIRC, turn the cab around, remove the uppermost black panel, the one that shares the same curved shape as the white in the front. The light assembly is in there, beneath the marquee holder, and above the red "Vewlix" plastic.

The lights are AC, they're not attached to the PSU (or at least the marquee one is).

https://imgur.com/a/VPCVr
 
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