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breadicus

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Now that I ordered the multicart I will need a board to run it since I didn't already have an MVS system (have AES). Looking online it seems the MV-1 and MV-1F are the ones to get if not going to mod them, but I see that there are 3 versions of the MV-1F (ignoring the FZ since it is a different board):

- MV-1F
- MV-1FS
- MV-1FT

I can't seem to find any mention of what the actual differences are of these versions. I have seen all three boards, they are very close in design, but there are clearly some slight differences in the chip layout. What are the actual differences in these three boards? Does it matter? :)
 
MV-1FT should be similar to a 1FS, smaller board compared to 1F and with stereo and gamepad connectors
 
I went for the MV-1FS personally because it was the most compact stereo board.

technically the MV-1C is smaller and you can stereo mod it but the vertical cart orientation doesn't work for my cabs.
 
Cool, thanks for the responses :) That chart is interesting, not sure why they wouldn't include the FT, but maybe it is the same as either the F or FS and just a slightly more cost effective version from a manufacturing aspect. (just a guess) I think I will be going with the FS as well for now!
 
I have plenty MVS boards and repaired many. Didn't noticed any major difference during game play, sounds etc.

But there are few things to consider;

1) 1F and alike: Big PCB, expensive shipping. Consume space but good for a cabinet. Integrated joystick ports are handy if you have AES sticks and want to play via a supergun. Headphone connectors and in-built stereo sound support seems a plus but in reality they do not have practical use. Infront of a cabinet, where speakers are so close to each other, you barely notice stereo. Headphone jacks are most of the time rusted inside, no good for practical use. Volume sliders (instead of regular volume pots) can be problematic. Hard to find a replacement (never found one) if they are bad and sound is scratchy.
2) Small single slots: Look for models where BIOS is socketed (i.e. 1A or 1FZ). Easy Unibios installation. Smaller to ship, less power consumption, compact design, practical use.
3) Even smaller boards 1B/1C alike: BIOS is surface mount. Not good for easy Unibios replacement. 1C is more expensive because they are sought after for consolization (AES like vertical cart placement). Stay away from 1B's though because there are many bootlegs out there and it is smaller than a cartridge, just doesn't look right :)

Above info are just my thoughts and based on my experiences so don't take them as de-facto standards...

For a problem free, easy to find/replace, cheap shipping cost, I'd go for 1A or 1FZ

However, I use a 1F in my cabinet just because I do not have space in my shelves for such a big PCB and I spent too much time to repair it back then so It has sentimental value for me :) (btw I switched to mono sound just because didn't see too much value in re-wiring my cabinet speakers)
 
personally I like the MV1C, but I agree it's more popular for consolization. Since you aren't looking to do much if any modding, the MV1F will be just fine.
 
For a problem free, easy to find/replace, cheap shipping cost, I'd go for 1A or 1FZ
That ^!
I say the 1FZ is one of the best MVS boards you can buy, because of the front loading cart slot, compact size and socketed BIOS.
 
For a problem free, easy to find/replace, cheap shipping cost, I'd go for 1A or 1FZ
That ^!I say the 1FZ is one of the best MVS boards you can buy, because of the front loading cart slot, compact size and socketed BIOS.
I would agree with this in general, as long as the purchaser doesn't mind having to use a supergun or adding the controller ports/outputs. The 1FZ is an extremely popular and easy to acquire board.
 
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