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Thanks. I already tried to bridge those points with a piece of wire, nothing has changed. I'm not too sure if the traces go to the same pins on the chips, so a clear picture of the bottom of the board would surely help :)
 
I'll do High Res pictures of the bottom and send them to your email ;)
Here I can't upload higher than 1Mo
 
Received, thanks!!

That definitely looks different than mine! Can you highlight on the back which solderspots you bridged exactly? I will then be able to see the traces where they lead to and solder directly to there.

Thanks again for the help!
 
I removed the wire that I found on the bottom (seems a manufacturer fix)
And put a wire on PC1 and PA4
I've sent you other pictures
 
@Apocalypse I was having a dull moment. I was switching the resistor in PB4, not G4. I actually don't have any resistors in G4 so that might be the problem. Can you check the value of the resistor and to which pins it goes please? Or maybe you can @Yippikaye? I have a feeling it might have something to do with that weird patch wire I have? Thanks!
They are 2Ω resistors and can be replaced by a piece of wire.
 
Well, mine is working now. Here are @Yippikaye's images:

https://imgur.com/a/H1o9qbX

For me, the corrupt graphics were due to:

a) the factory wire on the back being connected - I removed it, and
b) I used a 10k resistor to connect PC1 (not sure why... did I read that somewhere?) -- it's now just a wire jumper.

I hope that helps others with /2 hardware, seeing sprite issues! I also had one rom socket that I needed to reflow.
 
@Apocalypse I was having a dull moment. I was switching the resistor in PB4, not G4. I actually don't have any resistors in G4 so that might be the problem. Can you check the value of the resistor and to which pins it goes please? Or maybe you can @Yippikaye? I have a feeling it might have something to do with that weird patch wire I have? Thanks!
They are 2Ω resistors and can be replaced by a piece of wire.
The problem is I don't even have the solderpoints where the resistors are. So I need to "simulate" whatever is being bridged by PC1. I'm talking with @Yippikaye about this, but it's difficult to trace where they lead to. Can you help out which pins I need to bridge @Apocalypse?
 
b) I used a 10k resistor to connect PC1 (not sure why... did I read that somewhere?) -- it's now just a wire jumper.
Probably my fault as I mistakenly mentioned it (I was working on something else with lots of 10k pull-up resistors at the time of writing and my brain just got confused).

Glad to see it finally works for you.
 
@Apocalypse

Both top PC1 and PC2 are connected to the leg on the LS in position F3 (that was initially "factory fix" connected to PA4 left) on Rev /2 PCB's
There is no PC1 and PC2 on the Rev /1 PCB's
The solution must be a wire that goes from this leg on LS in F3 to a leg (only one) on LS in F4
And both Rev /1 and Rev /2 have the same "factory fix" when there is no resistance on PC2 on Rev /2
Maybe someone have a better knowledge on those LS
 
I did the conversion and it works. Thank you so much!

One minor gotcha if you're using a Squash (you should use a Squash): on the board I got, the CPU is underclocked to 10 mhz. The oscillator close to it is 20 mhz when it should be 24 (it has 24mhz silkscreened on the board). You might want to add a possible oscillator swap to the instructions. After all, the CPU installed is rated for 12 mhz anyway. I imagine some Squash boards might have 10 mhz rated CPUs soldered in as well, but I've only seen one so far.

MAME says a real board runs at 12 mhz, but I'm wondering if it's possible to upgrade it all the way to 16 mhz and get rid of all the slowdown. I might try that later but desoldering stuff out of this board is a real pain.
Thanks for the info, please share your results if you make the upgrades.
Anyone do this yet? Otherwise I'll probably give it a shot
 
you can run the board at 13Mhz without a problem.
to do this, cut the output trace from A20 (20Mhz) oszilator and run a wire to output pin of F1 (26Mhz) oszilator.
cpu now runs at 26/2 = 13mhz.............
 
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No mask roms so it's probably a conversion.
 
It's a genuine board, you can see stickers are not new as well as the sricker on 68000.
 
Anyone here can help me to identify what PC1 is bridging exactly as the traces are missing on my /1? :)
 
I just changed in a 24mhz crystal at A20 on my squash /2 pcb. The silkscreen said 24mhz on this revision, and my 68000 is 12mhz stock already. The game does feel faster, as it obviously would. I recorded the opening attract gameplay and although much of it is identical, it looks to be about 1 second faster on a 26 second gameplay sample. So maybe for some it's not worth it, but as easy as it was to swap I thought I'd post the results here. I'd recommend the mod.

13mhz might be even better but I was going for 'original' gameplay. Videos if anyone actually wants to compare. Ignore the top of the screen, I haven't messed with that yet and just assume it's my sync settings on the tv or at my supergun.

10mhz -
12mhz -
 
Ignore the top of the screen, I haven't messed with that yet and just assume it's my sync settings on the tv or at my supergun.
Typical issue with Gaelco boards.
Is it anything more than playing with the sync at the monitor/supergun level? If it's something typical and it's a fix on the pcb, let me know!
 
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