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The conversion carts are also supposed to have better sound then the actual PCB version, though I've never put them side by side to compare.
I've done it and it's defintely the case. The PCB sound on a lot of Cave games is pretty muffled, even on the CV-1000 hardware. I really dislike the sound on ESP Ra.De.

The PGM2 motherboard is on a whole other level of clarity to the conversions though.
 
The conversion carts are also supposed to have better sound then the actual PCB version, though I've never put them side by side to compare.
I've done it and it's defintely the case.
That's good to know and make me feel better about seeking out these carts as opposed to the original PCB versions.
I wonder if there are any differences between the PGM main board variants?

The quality of the audio on Cave boards has always really bugged me, the music and sound effects have always been great but the audio clarity is pretty crap. the lack of stereo out seems odd too considering most of these games were made well after that became the norm in arcades.
 
I have owned all three revisions of the PGM motherboard. I noticed no difference whatsoever and just ended up keeping revision 3 (the one that sheep_nova sells). I've had a couple of screwy motherboards which froze games and did weird things in the settings. I attempted to fix them at one point, but given how cheap they are it's worth sourcing a couple while they're still in abundance from China.

For the price that the later CV-1000 Cave games go for, the audio is absolutely atrocious, especially when considering how awesome the music and effects are! I've been busy active arranging solutions to hook up the 360 to the cab as the audio on those ports are stunning, let alone all the extra arrange versions, DLC, etc. you can delve into.

You've made the right choice. I wouldn't waste time getting a Ketsui, DDP DOJ or Espgaluda on PCB. I've gladly settled with the carts, both for their value as well as better quality game / lack of suicide battery (in the case of DDP DOJ).
 
I have owned all three revisions of the PGM motherboard. I noticed no difference whatsoever and just ended up keeping revision 3 (the one that sheep_nova sells). I've had a couple of screwy motherboards which froze games and did weird things in the settings. I attempted to fix them at one point, but given how cheap they are it's worth sourcing a couple while they're still in abundance from China.
Do you know of an easy way to tell them apart? I have 2x mobos and they're different but I have no idea if they're older or newer revisions or what.
 
I have owned all three revisions of the PGM motherboard. I noticed no difference whatsoever and just ended up keeping revision 3 (the one that sheep_nova sells). I've had a couple of screwy motherboards which froze games and did weird things in the settings. I attempted to fix them at one point, but given how cheap they are it's worth sourcing a couple while they're still in abundance from China.
Do you know of an easy way to tell them apart? I have 2x mobos and they're different but I have no idea if they're older or newer revisions or what.
I'm not sure about V1 and V2, but V3 is easily identified because it has a coincell battery and a circle screen printed on the PCB around the coin cell.
 
Do you know of an easy way to tell them apart? I have 2x mobos and they're different but I have no idea if they're older or newer revisions or what.
Check these pictures scalped from Google images:

pgm1.jpg


The motherboard to the left is revision 3 (the version that sheep_nova sells) which came stock standard with a coin cell battery from the factory.

The motheboard to the right is revision 1 (you can see the battery leakage). I had a couple of yaton's deadstock DDP2 kits which came with two different motherboards (this revision 1 and also revision 2). The batteries were like new, checked them a month later and they had leaked all over the board. You definitely want to remove that battery ASAP, it's horrendous how quickly the traces get damaged.

I'll try find a photo of revision 2 and post it up later :)

Another interesting thing to note, the Chinese motherboards have PGM moulded into the plastic shell, whereas the Japanese and Korean motherboards have a PGM decal/sticker in white on them.
 

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Ah, i didn't know you tested them with the ic's in place yet. Thank you for doing that :)

There must be something that enables/disables the encryption mechanism, as lydz posted carts with no arm in them. I'm gonna try and see as soon as my PGM gets here (and if it works).

MAME has the cpu running unencrypted code, as they simply decrypt the rom before starting up if it's required.

I might look into the software side during the xmas holidays but no promises ;)
Please, I'm waiting for that, as I have a Killing Blade cart ready to be converted, and it would be nice to know how to run those without any kind of encryption ^^
 
Indeed. I have a Killing Blade and a set of Espgaluda ROMs ready to install
 
Here ya go boys;
(Label not pictured, but it came included :) )
 

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and also some pics of the v3 motherboard I got, but there seems to be some sloppy soldering done around the battery holder, so is it a original v3 or just a v1 or v2 with a coin cell?
 

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last one
 

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Can you post a pic of the cart board with the program Rom on it in full? Is the arm still on it?
 
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