- Thread starter 98pacecar
- Start date
I tried to repair the menu of DOJBL rom ,and the rom works in mame fine. However , the rom doesn't work on kovsh cart.
Here is the rom:
http://www.filedropper.com/p0600
Here is the rom:
http://www.filedropper.com/p0600
Now with most of the traces laid out... still need to do power, and I'll probably re-route some traces that are close to the edges.
Update: There you go: power connections and ground planes. It passes the rule check, though I'll have to compare it against a working board to be sure. Probably not as pretty as if someone does it for a living...
Update: There you go: power connections and ground planes. It passes the rule check, though I'll have to compare it against a working board to be sure. Probably not as pretty as if someone does it for a living...
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I finally got my Ketsui conversion done, for whatever reason my programmer doesn't like the 29L3211MC chips so I had to order them pre-programmed.
I wanted to make the cleanest GFX board conversion possible. I'd appreciate some feedback.
-Instead of lifting pins I cut the traces to the pins that needed to be lifted, that way I could solder the pin down and not risk the pin getting damaged
-I desoldered the 5V side of the decoupling caps and soldered it directly to the ICs so it still functions as a decoupling cap.
-pin 5 of the 74 series IC was cut mid-pin and the bottom half of the pin was removed. I then jumped pads 4 and 5 on the underside of the PCB
-I used a voltage regulator and I soldered it directly to the 5V pin of one of the caps, this not only keeps the wires really short but it also makes it look a lot cleaner too
-I ran 2 wires directly from the voltage regulator to 2 sets of chips rather than daisy chaining all 4 chips together I also made sure they were setup so that each pair had at least 1 decoupling cap.
I think this is about as good as I could get this, though if there are areas I could improve on this I'd love to hear them
I wanted to make the cleanest GFX board conversion possible. I'd appreciate some feedback.
-Instead of lifting pins I cut the traces to the pins that needed to be lifted, that way I could solder the pin down and not risk the pin getting damaged
-I desoldered the 5V side of the decoupling caps and soldered it directly to the ICs so it still functions as a decoupling cap.
-pin 5 of the 74 series IC was cut mid-pin and the bottom half of the pin was removed. I then jumped pads 4 and 5 on the underside of the PCB
-I used a voltage regulator and I soldered it directly to the 5V pin of one of the caps, this not only keeps the wires really short but it also makes it look a lot cleaner too
-I ran 2 wires directly from the voltage regulator to 2 sets of chips rather than daisy chaining all 4 chips together I also made sure they were setup so that each pair had at least 1 decoupling cap.
I think this is about as good as I could get this, though if there are areas I could improve on this I'd love to hear them
bagheera369
Champion
Very clean work!
oneleaf86
Grand Master
Overall I think you've done a really good job!
There's no harm in using wire that thick but you can definitely get away with using some thin kynar wire.
The solder on the legs of the ROMs looks a little chunky. What soldering tip are you using?
I've done quite a few of these conversions now and I tend to always try different wiring schemes for every cart.
I just finished a Daioujou last night and tried running the wire underneath the chip legs to make things look a little cleaner.
There's no harm in using wire that thick but you can definitely get away with using some thin kynar wire.
The solder on the legs of the ROMs looks a little chunky. What soldering tip are you using?
I've done quite a few of these conversions now and I tend to always try different wiring schemes for every cart.
I just finished a Daioujou last night and tried running the wire underneath the chip legs to make things look a little cleaner.
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Both fantastic displays of skill there @oneleaf86 and @twistedsymphony — I’d be keen for a Ketsui 2-in-1 if you’re planning to make some up @oneleaf86
My Ketsui got misplaced, but in any case I wouldn’t mind getting super clean carts made up. Let me know
yeah it's 26awg, which is the thinnest I have at the moment.
I'm not very good at SMD soldering, to be honest This conversion went a lot better than my DDP DOJ mostly because of the tip. I picked up a thinner one to use and it worked a lot better. It's one of these guys: https://www.amazon.com/d/Soldering-...F8&qid=1547555483&sr=8-29&keywords=aoyue+tips
xodaraP
Legendary
I find a chisel tip works better than a super fine conical - might be worth trying if you haven't already
The super fine conical is perfect for soldering wires to tiny fine pitch SMD stuff though and probably better for soldering down very fine pitch components?
And the obvious: loads of good flux
The super fine conical is perfect for soldering wires to tiny fine pitch SMD stuff though and probably better for soldering down very fine pitch components?
And the obvious: loads of good flux
I have a chisel tip and a bevel tip but any time I've ever attempted drag soldering with either of them it's been a mess. with bad bridges and pins not making good contact with the pads.
I have flux pen and more recently I picked up a bottle of liquid flux it honestly doesn't seem to make much difference what I'm using though.
I have flux pen and more recently I picked up a bottle of liquid flux it honestly doesn't seem to make much difference what I'm using though.
With the thin pencil tip I was running around 320C
I honestly don't know what temps I was running at the last time I tried the drag method.
but I usually run with temps between 300C and 400C for soldering and 400C-450C for desoldering.
I honestly don't know what temps I was running at the last time I tried the drag method.
but I usually run with temps between 300C and 400C for soldering and 400C-450C for desoldering.
@twistedsymphony Could you update your description at the start of the thread with a summary of the different ROM versions that are in use, please? Not the actual ROM files, but a summary like "identical to MAME romset X" or "arranged mode".
I made only a few spot-checks, but I think the IGS PCB NO-0135 used for Dragon World II can be used as a graphics board. It'll require 32MBit 8/16 bit ROMs, but the M-ROM should be mapped to the correct base address.
It could be quite a neat conversion, as only a single A and B footprint are populated, though someone needs to do a complete check.
I made only a few spot-checks, but I think the IGS PCB NO-0135 used for Dragon World II can be used as a graphics board. It'll require 32MBit 8/16 bit ROMs, but the M-ROM should be mapped to the correct base address.
It could be quite a neat conversion, as only a single A and B footprint are populated, though someone needs to do a complete check.
oneleaf86
Grand Master
That sounds about right. I run mine around 320 most of the time and bump it up when needed.
It could definitely be the iron itself, not sure what your using but some cheaper irons tend to not hold the set temperature whilst soldering.
My iron is a Hakko FX-888D which has been an incredible tool in the 4-5 years I've owned it but I recently purchased a T12 tip compatible iron to see if it can outperform the Hakko.
Something is definitely not right in the equation though, if you're using plenty of flux, correct tip, decent iron and at the right temps it should pretty much just work.
Is the solder flowing freely when you drag solder?
It could definitely be the iron itself, not sure what your using but some cheaper irons tend to not hold the set temperature whilst soldering.
My iron is a Hakko FX-888D which has been an incredible tool in the 4-5 years I've owned it but I recently purchased a T12 tip compatible iron to see if it can outperform the Hakko.
Something is definitely not right in the equation though, if you're using plenty of flux, correct tip, decent iron and at the right temps it should pretty much just work.
Is the solder flowing freely when you drag solder?
the right flux makes a huge difference. I have had limited success with the flux pens and liquid flux. I mostly use paste now but requires some cleanup after soldering.
This stuff but it is very expensive: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chemtronics/CW8500/CW8500-ND/2098933
if somebody could point me to a cheaper alternative that would be excellent
This stuff but it is very expensive: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chemtronics/CW8500/CW8500-ND/2098933
if somebody could point me to a cheaper alternative that would be excellent
The program ROMs must come from the xxxxxxBL (aka Bootleg) ROM sets because those are the only ones that are patched for use on a cart.
There are other version of the program roms that aren't in MAME though, such as the ketsui arrange, and the dual boot DDPDOJ, I have a link to the ketsui arrange/switch rom but we don't have a dump of the dual boot DDPDJO ROM yet.
the rest of the ROMs can come from any set as they're all identical, and if you're using a split MAME ROM set you're only going to find them in the primary ROM zips anyway.
EDIT:
I've updated my post with the following:
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