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Ok, that is the Lydz board. They are purpose-built, so it is strange that this doesn't work out of the box.
The background tile data is stored in the SMD-mounted ROM. I don't know which of the PAL is controlling it, though it is the same for all cave games so it should work.

I would look if all the SMD pins are soldered properly. One problem with these mods is that you get modern high-capacity / 16 bit flash chips only as 3.3V devices, so they are operated out of spec in the PGM. The voltage regulator only changes the input power. This may work fine in many cases, though it is something to be aware of.

(AFAIK the square ASIC is a decoy, and missing from newer revisions...)
 
Hey thanks for the info!

I noticed it was a custom board so I was also surprised about this. However, the issue of tile background missing on that particular level seems to be common to the earlier bootlegs. So I think there's a definite fix out there.

I reflowed everything and also added decoupling capacitors, but that didn't help anything.

I've read about the data bus being 5 volts on the PGM but the ROM being 3.3v...yeah that kinda sucks. Ideally there be a level shift converter in there. Am I understanding correctly that 5 volts logic is being sent to the SMD ROM? Cuz thats no good...

Still, I don't think it would account for the issue I'm having. People seem to think it's one of the PALs.

Thanks for your help!
 
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Based on the picture I expect the upper PAL is controlling the tile data, they are 22v10 on that board if I remember correctly. Its job is to map the tile data address to the start of the ROM, and generate the CS signals for the tile ROM on the main board and the cartridge. You could check continuity from the PAL to the ROM for the upper few address lines.
If the ROM was socketed I would dump it and compare it against the Mame data.

(Edit: just to be save you could dump the program ROM and compare it against an existing dump.)
 
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Well I reflowed absolutely everything yesterday, and it still has the same problem :(

When you say it's the upper pal, you mean based on the orientation of the picture?

Maybe it's time to ask a favor from someone to get another burned ROM and then use my heat gun to remove the one in there.

Does anyone know a source for getting another ROM?
 
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When you say it's the upper pal, you mean based on the orientation of the picture?
The orientation in the picture. If you look at the traces that go and disappear under the ROM. There are traces from the other one going to the program eprom.
 
I did a continuity check from the PAL lines to the 3.3v ROM... No shorts and everything looks fine. The PCB and everything looks good, this really seems to be ROM issue.

Does anyone know which ROM I need to replace and where to order one? Do I need to order the DIP one for the 3.3v one?
 
Difficult to say without knowing exactly what is wrong. I expect if the DIP one was broken you would see crashes and more problems with level layout. The SMD one is only tile and font data, and the CPU doesn't have access at all (AFAIK), so it will just result in missing graphics. At the same time, if the PAL doesn't generate the correct address or CS signal you'll have missing graphics.

The DIP one is out of production, you can get them for example from eBay or Aliexpress. They are recycled parts, though I think someone found new-old-stock as well.
 
Thanks for thanks for the info and help. Do you know any way I could get the PAL or the surface mount one? I've been contacting @'sheep_nova but they seem to think I had the older board and haven't replied recently.

Old Stock DIP ROMs shouldn't be too hard to source and I could find someone to reprogram that one. It's the other parts I'm more worried about
 
No idea about the SMD one, but it seems to be the same type people used for conversions. I had a look on digikey, but they only had TSOP types as far as I could see...
IIRC people used a store that can program them for you. http://www.buyicnow.com/ ? You'll have to go back a few pages to check, unfortunately.

For the PAL it depends what you can program. You can still get ATF22V10 new, but I think several people had problems writing them because the programming algorithm is non-standard and mostly undocumented. I played around with a few Lattice 22V10 I got from eBay, but they are new-old-stock at best, and recycled parts at worst. You should be able to adapt the equations from the 16V8 I'm using for my boards. (If you can't use a 16V8 in the first place with a bit of rewiring.)
 
Any news on the DDP DOJ WL & BL ROM?

Its only the WL that crashes right in the Dual Boot rom?
f I just wanna make a BL or WL cart then, do we have a 100% working dump for 2 separate ones, or only for the BL?


Thread is getting so long now.. hard to keep track :D
 
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Edit: just bought some voltage regulators, 3. 3v/1A max so they should be good.
Yep earlier in the topic I suggested 500mA should be enough.
Saw that when I went back and read the full thread looking for the instructions for Ketsui - thank you very much, I'll get the correct EEPROMs on order this week too. Will take a photo of my cart when I get it to make sure it's possible before I go any further.
All 3 of my conversions from Sheep have Zener diodes for the voltage drop, the carts have worked fine for months now. Is replacing the diodes for a regulator still recommended or is it a "not broke don't fix it" kind of thing?
 
Also, fuck DDP, who plays that shit anyway!
Me because neither my Ketsui or ESPgaluda boards work T_T.

What's worse is I have DDP DOJ original board, DDP DOJ Tamashii, and now the conversion as well... 3 ways to play this damned game, and no ways to play the other two (except PS4 Ketsui I suppose).
 
I just bought the three from @ITATTRACTS but he hasn't mailed them. You want me to have him mail to you direct and you can figure out what's wrong with your stuff? I'm in not rush to get them.
 
What's worse is I have DDP DOJ original board, DDP DOJ Tamashii, and now the conversion as well... 3 ways to play this damned game, and no ways to play the other two (except PS4 Ketsui I suppose).
Of those 3, Tamashii is the best one :) It's difficulty is accessibly as fun to play and it also sounds the best by far...
 
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