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arcadeaction

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Hi,

1) My kit is now booting and plays 1944 when I turn it on, but I'm unable to change to any other game or use the LCD screen as it isn't on. If I hit the enter button, the monitor goes black and then after waiting a while (which I am assuming the system is reloading) 1944 boots up again.

2) When I power up, the LCD flashes on for a split second and then remains off. Pushing the Up or Down seemingly do nothing, but holding down the Enter button sometimes makes the LCD stay on but the LCD screen is blank without text. I have attempted to reseat the LCD cables many times (with power off of course). Pushing the Down and Enter at the same time apparently caused a fuse to blow in my JAMMA switcher card. I've fixed the JAMMA switcher and it works again. Could have been a coincidence, though it happened the exact moment of button pressing.

3) A Mac was used to load up the SD card, and I did it as instructed with formatting as Fat32 and doing the Terminal command to remove extra files created by OSX. I can attempt to use a PC if the issues are somehow connected.

The kit is an amazing work of art, just looking forward to figuring this out.

Thoughts are appreciated, thanks!
 
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The last time I heard this issue it was a problem with the cable. Which cable are you using?
 
The last time I heard this issue it was a problem with the cable. Which cable are you using?
It is this version, and is many feet long. I've attempted to plug it in both ways. The connector ends seem interchangeable, but the case on the board will only shut if you do it one way, so that's the way I connected it (though when that didn't work I tried the other way with same results).
lcdcable.jpg
 
If the cable is wrongly connected he won't see anything.

Here my bet is on the microSD. Can you try writing all the files again in one single drag + drop from a Windows machine??

Format it before doing that to be 100% sure.

There may be a problem with the code in the ARM processor, but I doubt it to be the reason.
 
One guy before had a cable that was assembled wrong. He had to flip the connector on one end. The microsd would not prevent the LCD from functioning.
 
I think that those glitches might be related to an unexpected status in the ARM processor caused by a wrong file structure in the microSD because of the MAc.

Please post a picture where I can see both ends of the cable so we can cancel that as a source of error.
 
This is the cable that was sent in the kit. Although my kit was either in the first or second batch, this week is the first time I've attempted to use it. Mitsurugi-w updated the U40 and the firmware this past week. I'll try an SD card loaded through a PC later today. I'm using the same 4GB SD card as shown in the PDF instruction.

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It's possibly a bad cable, sometimes those housings have crappy pins that don't make contact. I've had that happen a few times with those types of cables. Make sure it's fully seated in the socket.
 
Update: On my Mac, as a test, I deleted all the 1944 and 19XX games so the first game alphabetically was then Alien Vs Predator.

When I booted it still played 1944 as that what was loaded in the system. Then I hit the enter key. After waiting a bit, the system rebooted with Alien Vs Predator and it played perfect.

A couple of times when lightly bending the cable the LCD screen did flash. I'm kind of assuming the cable is bad at this point.

Can a new cable be sent to me?

Thanks
 
Send me that cable and I will send you another. PM me your address.
 
PM sent with address, thanks, I will send mine to you tomorrow.

Update: Also, just now with a Win7 PC, I completely reformatted the SD card with FAT32 doing long format and decompressed the RAR file and copied the files over. The results are the same as with a Mac doing the Terminal command. I also then deleted all the ROMS up to Gigawing and put the card back in. After hitting Enter, the monitor went black and then after a short bit Gigawing loaded up and played perfectly.
 
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I never suspected the sd card for this issue. The LCD would still light up with a proper cable even if it didn't display correctly

Look at the cable I am sending to you. I'm sure you can see the difference:

2cifddh.jpg


The cable was already dropped off at the post office.
 
Sorry to hijack

@Darksoft - Is there an option to purchase a replacement LCD and button assembly from you down the track if the LCD fails? Or somewhere to buy the LCD part itself to have someone solder a new one on?

Reason: When i first power on my kit lately, the LCD has a couple of strange lines through it, then they go away slow over the course of 30 seconds, almost like it needs to warm up. It got me thinking, what happens if in a couple of years I lose all display? I want to know if there's a future proof option.
 
The LCD uses normal I2C protocol. Any LCD should be ok. You may have to adapt the pinout though...

I think I already posted that, but let me see where if I can get a link to compatible LCDs.
 
Update: I received the new cable today. Works perfect!

Thanks guys for a great product and support. This is a complicated product to design and make available. I appreciate your talents and patience.
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I figured it would solve the issue. Happy gaming!
 
The LCD uses normal I2C protocol. Any LCD should be ok. You may have to adapt the pinout though...

I think I already posted that, but let me see where if I can get a link to compatible LCDs.
Anyone know where the pinouts for the LCD are?
 
Sorry to necro a thread, but while we are on this topic, my multi went through something traumatic. Something shorted and killed my A-board, and my monitor was damaged. I finally fixed my monitor...3years later, replaced my A-board, and everything appears to be in working order...with one catch:

fXv9l65.jpg




So I have a couple of things I am looking for. I have a reflow station and can replace the segmented LCD easily enough. Just need to find the right part. Second - if anyone has any thoughts on what might be happening here that isn’t just a damaged LCD, I would be interested in hearing it.

Also, if anyone knows where I could get a longer cable from while I am at it I’d appreciate it. I have to dumbly admit I do not know what the name of these ribbon cable connector are called even to make my own.
 
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