What's new
Thats correct B-21 has 0xFFFF at offset 0x32 and B-01 does not have an ID but it doesn't matter as they both use the same register bits & locations.
B-03 though has an ID of 0x0003 at offset 0x24, this is some of the data missing from Mame.
 
I got a Final Fight that came on a Dash A board. It looks to have been repaired and also the big capacitor next to the Jamma edge was missing. I replaced that. Looks like it may have been repaired, anyone know what's up with that sticker on the custom?

IMG_4509.JPG

Works great with Final Fight.

Here in Australia for some reason Leisure & Allied sold SF2:CE and SF2:HF on long A boards. If you shop around there are heaps of these in the wild with matching date stickers on them. I have one of these boards that I converted to Daimakiamura Resale.

I swapped the A boards over because I figured I would like my Final Fight to be on a long A board and Daimakaimura could be on this short board but in this configuration, Daimakiamura has weird missing sprite problems. Put it back on the Long A board and it works perfectly.

Is it possible for these short boards to have issues that only manifest with certain games?
 
I got a Final Fight that came on a Dash A board. It looks to have been repaired and also the big capacitor next to the Jamma edge was missing. I replaced that. Looks like it may have been repaired, anyone know what's up with that sticker on the custom?

IMG_4509.JPG

Works great with Final Fight.

Here in Australia for some reason Leisure & Allied sold SF2:CE and SF2:HF on long A boards. If you shop around there are heaps of these in the wild with matching date stickers on them. I have one of these boards that I converted to Daimakiamura Resale.

I swapped the A boards over because I figured I would like my Final Fight to be on a long A board and Daimakaimura could be on this short board but in this configuration, Daimakiamura has weird missing sprite problems. Put it back on the Long A board and it works perfectly.

Is it possible for these short boards to have issues that only manifest with certain games?
Looks like a date sticker in Chinese - Year/Month/Day. I assume that's when they did that repair? I also say Chinese since it mentions "Hua" at the beginning, so probably not Japanese, even though they would also use the same characters for dates. (I'm no expert though, so who knows)
 
Got out the magnifying glass thinking maybe a trace to one of the mask ROMs might be damaged and found this:

IMG_4521.JPG


When I got the board CC22 was missing but I never noticed CC20 was also missing.

Did a google and found this guys thread: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=409155

Seems that component can explode. Would explain the repair job on the component I have an arrow pointing to. I guess I'll replace that and see if it fixes my problem.

Anyone seen this before?
 
Haven't seen that or a missing giant capacitor, but at least you can replace them easily enough

As for the SF2/LAI thing, my guess would be with the popularity of SF2 they had A board failures and swapped out with what they had to get operators going again.

Either that or they somehow got Capcom to supply B/C boards only and used the A boards they already had from WW

I had the missing sprites problem on GnG, but it was on a faulty A board (confirmed with Final Fight and SF2)

I've put my GnG conversion on both my long FF A board and short SF2WW board without any problems, so not sure what's going on there, maybe a ROM speed issue? (EPROMs too slow?)
 
Haven't seen that or a missing giant capacitor, but at least you can replace them easily enough

As for the SF2/LAI thing, my guess would be with the popularity of SF2 they had A board failures and swapped out with what they had to get operators going again.

Either that or they somehow got Capcom to supply B/C boards only and used the A boards they already had from WW

I had the missing sprites problem on GnG, but it was on a faulty A board (confirmed with Final Fight and SF2)

I've put my GnG conversion on both my long FF A board and short SF2WW board without any problems, so not sure what's going on there, maybe a ROM speed issue? (EPROMs too slow?)
I got the missing CC20 today so I'll install tonight and see if that makes a difference. I can't imagine that would cause sprite issues though.

ROM speed issue seems like a possibility, was thinking maybe because Final Fight only has 4 mask ROMs and Ghouls n Ghosts uses 8 there could be a broken trace that Final Fight doesn't need? Maybe I need to try a different game on the A board and see if that gives any clues.
 
Got out the magnifying glass thinking maybe a trace to one of the mask ROMs might be damaged and found this:

IMG_4521.JPG


When I got the board CC22 was missing but I never noticed CC20 was also missing.

Did a google and found this guys thread: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=409155

Seems that component can explode. Would explain the repair job on the component I have an arrow pointing to. I guess I'll replace that and see if it fixes my problem.

Anyone seen this before?
Yep, I've had the same one explode. Tantalum caps, man.

I would expect the legs and part of the cap to remain. Pretty weird to remove the debris and not replace the component.

Also, pretty sure it's only part of the sound circuit, so I doubt it would have any effect on sprites.
 
Yep, I've had the same one explode. Tantalum caps, man.
I would expect the legs and part of the cap to remain. Pretty weird to remove the debris and not replace the component.

Also, pretty sure it's only part of the sound circuit, so I doubt it would have any effect on sprites.
They must explode with a decent amount of force to blow the leg off that amp?
 
Yep, I've had the same one explode. Tantalum caps, man.
I would expect the legs and part of the cap to remain. Pretty weird to remove the debris and not replace the component.

Also, pretty sure it's only part of the sound circuit, so I doubt it would have any effect on sprites.
They must explode with a decent amount of force to blow the leg off that amp?
My suspicion would be that someone cut the leg by accident when trying to deal with the cap? Tantalums can supposedly catch fire, but the area around there looks pretty clean so I doubt that happened. In my case, the shell of the cap broke and half of it fired off in a pretty scarily high-speed fashion, but I very much doubt it would have actually damaged anything it hit... other than my eye. As I say, I would have expected SOMETHING to be left of the cap on the board, so I think it has been removed at some point.

I didn't actually notice the arrow or the amp leg damage before my other post :p
 
So here's something interesting. I bought a SF2 "CE" off eBay that someone has had in their closet for years, even still had a static bag and looked entirely stock.



..Except it's actually SF2 HF and it came with a 10MHz A board

https://i.imgur.com/wozSnrP.jpg

(linked because huge image)
 
I got a SF2' CE from ebay, but it looks strange to me.
The A-Board looks like a long board (10MHz) but not a dashboard.
Can you guys try to figure out what I've bought ?

Fortunately, the game is working and the price (for an ebay price) was not that high.
Unfortunately, it's not gonna be useful for an hypothetical CPS1 multi ;)

IMG_20180218_090522.jpg
IMG_20180218_090647.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20180218_090536.jpg
    IMG_20180218_090536.jpg
    648.8 KB · Views: 183
  • IMG_20180218_091032.jpg
    IMG_20180218_091032.jpg
    365.9 KB · Views: 172
Yup, definitely a long board 10mhz and it looks like a bootleg B board.
Not just the roms, but also the pcb itself is far from original...
 
Yup, definitely a long board 10mhz and it looks like a bootleg B board.
Not just the roms, but also the pcb itself is far from original...
Thanks, that's what I was thinking.
You're right, the B board is of poor quality.
Shit, I still have to chase for a dash board !
 
Last edited:
I have a bootleg B board very similar to that but with a lot less EPROMs and it came on a short 10mhz board :)

The 10mhz boards are still fine, you just need a 12mhz crystal, I'm going to get a small piece of prototyping board this week and rig up a switchable 10/12mhz setup
 
Yup, definitely a long board 10mhz and it looks like a bootleg B board.
Not just the roms, but also the pcb itself is far from original...
Thanks, that's what I was thinking.You're right, the B board is of poor quality.
Sheet, I still have to chase for a dash board !
B-board is a well known bootleg sometimes silkscreened "T104".
Just replace the 10MHz crystal (and the 68000 CPU if you're afraid of overheating) and you have a dash board.
 
Do you know of a current suitable 12Mhz oscillator? I was looking around on mouser & digikey and found a few however their maximum current was 30mA vs the 35mA that my current 10 MHz board uses. It'd probably work but easier to just see if someone knows.
 
I got a SF2' CE from ebay, but it looks strange to me.
The A-Board looks like a long board (10MHz) but not a dashboard.
Can you guys try to figure out what I've bought ?

Fortunately, the game is working and the price (for an ebay price) was not that high.
Unfortunately, it's not gonna be useful for an hypothetical CPS1 multi
it looks like someone took a SF2 World Warrior and converted it to CE. that "B-12" C-board was used on World Warrior and Mercs.

you could potentially upgrade the crystal on your A-Board to make it 12MHz.
 
I had the missing sprites problem on GnG, but it was on a faulty A board (confirmed with Final Fight and SF2)
I've put my GnG conversion on both my long FF A board and short SF2WW board without any problems, so not sure what's going on there, maybe a ROM speed issue? (EPROMs too slow?)
Did yours look like this:


It's a bit weird, Final Fight and SF2 WW don't seem to have any problems. The GnG works fine on other A boards.
 
Back
Top