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How much Watt does a CRT cab use?

PascalP

PascalP

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looking to get a new stepdown to go from 220V -> 100V, but how much would a CRT cab draw in general, NAC, NNC, ect.
How much Watt should I be looking at?

According to Hard*Candy a NAC uses 140 Watt where a NNC uses 322 Watt.... ?(

These are the ones I'm looking at, preferably a model with dual output so I can use 1 output for my 2 cabs via a power strip, and the other output with a power strip for all my consoles.
The 750 Watt model should be sufficient I think :)
https://airlinktransformers.com/category/japan-europe-voltage-converters
 
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interesting article!

So a NAC can go up to 200W with a NVS4000 PSU and a NNC just over 200W.

Think I'll get the 750W dual output then, more than sufficient for 2 cabs + consoles (which are not all turned ON at once).
 
I measured my net cities. 2.4 amp start up 1.8 amp constant (so 240 spike, 180 watt constant). I use a 500 watt step down for each cab.
 
skate323k137 said:
I measured my net cities. 2.4 amp start up 1.8 amp constant (so 240 spike, 180 watt constant). I use a 500 watt step down for each cab.
Click to expand...
Aren't the SUN PSU's rated at 100-120V input, so would you even need a stepdown in the US?

segapsu.jpg
 
Looked up some other PSU's and the standard NAC PSU is rated at 100V input and the NVS4000 is rated at 90-110V input
 
Technically you don't "need" a stepdown but US voltage can vary from 110 to 125 on the day or time of day. I always use a 100v stepdown because of that and because the nanao ms2933 is labelled 100v. I take no chances with my tri sync tubes.
 
Another thing to bear in mind is what your input AC voltage actually runs at as the stepdown transformer will only step down the voltage at a set ratio of the input. Before you buy a step down it would be worth carefully measuring your mains voltage to see what it's running at.

When I bought my last Astro City it came with a Maplins 230>110v step down transformer. I measured the output of the transformer and it was outputting 120v which is far too high for the chassis. =O Upon inspection it seems that my mains voltage runs at 245v.

I'm in the UK and the nominal voltage here is 230 Volts, however by law there is a tolerance of +10% / –6%, which means anything within the range 253 Volts to 216.2 Volts is 'acceptable'.

Even an Airlink 230>100v step down would have given me an output of ~107V which although is closer to 100V it's still a little higher than I would like.

I ended up using a SKOT 560-5422UK REV 1 which is one of the standard stepdown transformers found in a UK Naomi Universal. Here's one pictured below when I was messing around with one:

DSC_0202-XL.jpg


The beauty of these 100V step downs is that they have a configurable input and you can select between 210V, 220V, 230V or 240V in. I ended up installing this in my E2 so I can run the cab directly from the mains. As it's a Naomi Uni PSU it also has a 17VAC output used for the Naomi audio amplifier, bonus! My E2 didn't have a audio amp so I installed one at the same time.

Before:

DSC_0009-XL.jpg


DSC_0010-XL.jpg


After:

DSC_0027-XL.jpg


DSC_0023-XL.jpg


I cut a new larger board for the base and mounted the original parts to it along with a few extras. I've got the original board still so it could be reverted back to stock in minutes. ;)

Since I had a ~230v input I took the opportunity to add a couple of internal sockets for consoles etc and mounted a ~100VAC voltmeter to keep an eye on the output. As you can see using the 240V input on the transformer gives me a nice 102VAC output 8)

So yes, it's a good idea to check your mains output before committing to a stepdown. As well as running too high you can also have problems if your AC is too low. In that situation you may want to use something like a ~230>110V stepdown rather than a ~230>100V
 
I use these with the vewlix cabs.

A stepdown 120v-100V transformer

followed by

TRIPP LITE SmartPro SMC1000T

This is the only one I could find quickly that would act as an avr/line conditioner/ups, you dont need the ups fucntion really, but you do need the batteries if your input voltage drops. The reason I got these was because you can set them to 100v-in 100v out. I have had zero issues with the set up, always get a clean 100v to the cabs.
 
The worst is 9v AC stepdowns for synths. They always just do a 10/1 or 20/1 so you get 12v or 6v but never 9 lol.
 
Derick2k said:
I use these with the vewlix cabs.

A stepdown 120v-100V transformer

followed by

TRIPP LITE SmartPro SMC1000T

This is the only one I could find quickly that would act as an avr/line conditioner/ups, you dont need the ups fucntion really, but you do need the batteries if your input voltage drops. The reason I got these was because you can set them to 100v-in 100v out. I have had zero issues with the set up, always get a clean 100v to the cabs.
Click to expand...
You have one for each cab? Or connect multiple cabs to 1 unit?
Should be able to power 2-3 Vewlix from 1 unit I think?
 
nice build @FrancoB, I'll check my mains, but over here we have the same 230V +10% / –6%, as in the UK, but as we have come up from 220V in most places the actual voltage is still slightly below 230V.
Isn't it so that the UK came down from 240V and that's why you still are on the upper side of 230V?

Also which voltage meters did you get?
Might connect one directly to my stepdown or power strip for convenience :)
 
I hear it is wise to always leave 2x capacity for a step down, i.e. 500w for a 250w device. Personally I use a 500w for each cab.
 
I have a 2000 watt step down for all 4 cabs, then I have 1 of those Avr / ups per 2 cabs. Works just fine for me, no issues at all for almost a year now. I do hear the Avr units activate a couple of times, but that was because power was wonky in my area. Specially in winter storms when power lines get messed up, etc..

There’s a 900watt version of those Avr/ups units as well.
 
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500W Per cab should be more then sufficient even if you run TTX2/3 in each cab I would say.
For me personally I always use power strips with surge protection etc., but don't see the need for a UPS as the power grid in the Netherlands is very stable.
We have very little fluctuations in the voltage and most power lines are under ground so no weather/storm influences or whatever... :)

Just measured my mains on multiple sockets in my house and it goes between 230V to 233V, so I should be good with one of those Airlink 230 -> 100V @1000W :D
 
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PascalP said:
nice build @FrancoB, I'll check my mains, but over here we have the same 230V +10% / –6%, as in the UK, but as we have come up from 220V in most places the actual voltage is still slightly below 230V.
Isn't it so that the UK came down from 240V and that's why you still are on the upper side of 230V?

Also which voltage meters did you get?
Might connect one directly to my stepdown or power strip for convenience :)
Click to expand...
That's great that you're running so close to 230V, the Airlinks should be great then, I know people rate them highly. :thumbsup:

We used to run at UK was 240V +/- 6%, giving a possible range of voltage from 226V to 254 V. The newer tolerance of 230V +10% / –6%, (216.2V to 253V) was introduced to try and harmonise with the EU. [This] is a pretty interesting article. It seems that there is no such thing as a 230V supply, it's just a change in tolerance standard to bridge UK 240V and EU 220V. That would explain why the EU tend to be on the lower side of 230V and I'm running on the higher side of 230V.

In regards to the voltmeter, I bought one like [this] that just has two wires to connect to the AC live and AC neutral. Some others have three or more wires that also need a separate DC power supply.
 
Thanks, got a couple of those meters from Ali, should be exactly the same ones.
Now lets order an Airlink ;)
 
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