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psu,lights,monitor etc need a good 500w or more at startup.

where's the psu pictures / details??
 
The x2 should directly be powering a monitor... lol

the PC is a p4 I believe its the 106watt tdp part

So by the time you add the Ram, harddrive power, and 7900 GS power Draw and the pci card power draw

You should be at a grand-total of 220 Watts at peak performance.

Now Powersupplys back in the day and even now are rated on how efficient they are and how often can they deliver that, SO ill give it a bad go and say its only a 60% efficient power supply that would mean you would want a 360 watt power supply. if it was the worlds crapest most inefficient psu ever built

Realistically 400WATT 80+ bronze unit will power anything you can plug into an x2 with out breaking a sweat
 
A little while ago my original TTX would not start up.

The fix was to replace the BIOS battery.
 
Here is the psu pics, sorry for late response :/
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Forcing an ATX supply to turn on by bridging the green wire to GND is a very bad idea for a pc setup. PC mobo's have a voltage rail supervising circuit that checks all the voltages on the mobo, not only those coming from the supply but also the voltages generated on the motherboard used to power the cpu internal Logic. When such a voltage is out of range, the motherboard will turn off the supply using the green power on wire. So, if you short that to create a permanent on, the system can't turn it off and you can fry your cpu or ram modules if a voltage is 2 high.
Motherboards have a pair of jumper pins on the mobo that are provided for a "power on" pushbutton. That's the recommended way to try to turn on the system. Further, they might have a setting in the bios that tells what to do in case of a power failure. If that's set to power on, the mobo should turn on the power supply as soon as the power is restored. Obvious, you need a good bios battery or it won't work. So, just buy a cheap meter that can do volts, amps and ohms to check the voltages. Measure the CR2032 coin cell battery voltage. (with the power turned off) and see if it still gives you 3V. If it's only 2.8, replace that. Find the jumper pins that are used to connect the power button. Usually, they are grouped with also some for a reset button, a power led and hdd led. If you are lucky, it's printed on the pcb what they are used 4. Temporary short the power button jumper pins and see if the cpu blower does an attempt to rotate. (Even if it's only for a fraction of a second.) You should be able to find an ATX supply for 50 - 60 bucks. Maybe computer shops will even loan you one for testing, or you could bring the TTX to them and ask them if they could test it. Sometimes they have an ATX tester that loads the supply and shows it's status with some led's.
 
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You should take into consideration that a TTX2 doesn’t have a power button, it starts as soon as you plug it in the mains.
 
That doesn't necessairy mean that the jumper pins for a power button aren't there. As I explained, with the correct bios settings, it can simply power on after a power fail. You only need to jumpstart it once as the default bios settings are usually different. I have seen arcade systems that used the grounding green wire trick, but I doubt Taito would do such behavour. Those companies don't design their main boards and power supplies themselfs. They go to other companies that are used to make those and just ask for some specifics like the special dimensions of the power supply. Basically, it remains an ATX supply, So it will have a green wire as well (maybe different color) The same goes for the motherboard, it will have a voltage supervisor circuit and a way to turn on the supply.
 
If you intend to use an ATX for non pc mobo purposes, you can turn it on by grounding the green wire. They might need a minimum load on the 5V rail or 3V3 rail (can't remember which one) or they can start to oscillate. If the load is minimal, the 12V might only be 11V or less as usual the 12V isn't regulated.
 
Where did you lost it? What language would fit you better?
 
Well actually I did not understand if your detailed explanation would suggest me to test the X2 with a standard atx psu or not :D
I posted some photos of my actual X2 psu and I thought they might help to locate the issue, since many of you suggested that everything points out to the psu being the problem. I just don’t want to risk doing some other damage to the board, given my total incapacity with electronics... I’m currently looking for a good multimeter on Amazon to make some tests (any suggestion on models etc would be really appreciated)
Ps. My main language would be Italian ;)

Thank guys!
 
If you intend to use an ATX for non pc mobo purposes, you can turn it on by grounding the green wire. They might need a minimum load on the 5V rail or 3V3 rail (can't remember which one) or they can start to oscillate. If the load is minimal, the 12V might only be 11V or less as usual the 12V isn't regulated.
I believe it is the 5V, when starting an ATX supply I always connect a hard disk so there is a load and the PSU can start.
 
I just checked my TTX2, the PSU has a normal green wire, no bridge.
There is one connector going to the JVS IO card (which does have a reset button), so the power must be bridged on the IO card I would say.

So @kagutaba just plug in a standard PC ATX PSU to the TTX2 once you have one to test ;)
 
Or just take it to a nearby computer shop and ask if they can test it with an ATX supply.
They might have a tester for the original supply as well.
 
Hi guys, I finally had the time to make some new tests on my X2. Finally I managed to find a pc psu and also bought me a multimeter. Bad news is I cannot test the mobo with the new psu because connectors are not the same ;(
(New psu seems to be missing the cable that goes to the video card). I tried connecting the X2 psu directly to the wall plug wiring the green cable to gnd in order to power it on, as suggested. No life sign from it :(
I did the same test with the new psu, just to be sure I was doing things right bridging green cable to gnd, and it worked just right. So, I’m assuming the psu is the problem, as many of you already suggested. Next step, I’m planning to bring the X2 psu to an electronic shop nearby, in order to see if it can be repaired, since it seems to be pretty hard to find a new replacement. In the meantime, are there some other tests I could do now that I have a multimeter and a spare (not very useful though) psu?

Thanks as usual for you kind help!
 
you dont need to fit the video card to test if the mainboard stays on.
 
If you are taking the old PSU to an electronic shop nearby to see if it can be repaired (which doesnt make sense to try and repair it at this point if its truly failed, unless its something simple like replacing fuse), why not take the X2 itself and have them test it out? They will most likely have a PSU on hand that will work with it and finally eliminate the possibilities of what is the problem.

BTW, if the mobo and everything else works besides the psu, you could just get a cheap pc case and almost any pc psu and stick the X2 components in there. You will most likely get better cooling, quieter operation as a bonus in a much lighter case and be done.

or as @atrfate would say, just get any decent pc and just run the TTX2 games on that instead :)
 
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you dont need to fit the video card to test if the mainboard stays on.
You are definitely right, I forgot to mention I also miss the little squared connector that sits beside the main plug (marked P1 iirc)
 
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